What's next for Becker?

Actually, I wouldn't care what the steel was, really. Even if it was just the standard 1095 CV, I'm mostly a fan of big choppers. 1095, O1, 5160, doesn't really matter, I like big carbon steel blades. And I like the Magnum Camp Knife. For me, perfect would be a 12 inch MCK, with micarta scales. Oh, and a leather sheath, forgot that part.
 
moosez45 said:
Some of the older Condor's had HT issues, of that I will agree too, but the new stuff is pretty good for the money. Their primary woods designer is a great guy, and is coming up with some pretty good ideas. The new Bush Sapien is a real BA knife, for the size, and the Bushcraft Basics are a good trainer knife for guys that teach classes, and need to outfit newbs with blades that can be dinged, beat and otherwise mistreated, for less than $30 each, helluva deal.

That said, Condors QC needs to get better and the grinders need to start finishing the grinds. I have a new Kamunga and right now it is pulling woodstove duty, and doing a good job of splitting wood. Right now it is splitting an average of 10 pieces down to 1"x1" daily and holding its own. My primary wood right now is some soaked through Red Oak, and I have to split it small to get it dry enough to burn. Its burning, and the Kamunga is splitting.

Things are getting better for Condor, grindwise and QC wise, but they are not where they should be. But, hell, for under $30 show me where you can get a knife that can take that abuse and keeping going. Not that size, not that thickness.

Moose
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well enough, I agree the price point its near impossible to beat and would make a great bulk buy for scouts..

as I write this I'm wondering if Becker could do some similar knives, "blades only with options".. sorta like a 'you build it kit' knife, bushcraft versions etc.. maybe it would allow them to cut down cost on assembly.. dunno, I think having a 'kit option' isn't to far fetched, is it??
 
Said I would post some pics, so here ya go. These are both custom designs sent to me to be made. kind of standard stuff.
The smaller blade is a 6" blade out of 5/16" thick O-1. Going to be a tank and the larger one you have already seen. Just finished the rough cut out with the angle grinder. Now to finsh the shape and pregrind. They will be preground with a flat bevel, and then full convexed after heat treat.. I'll show ya.
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It's going to be a beast that's for sure. I am looking forward to watching your progression. Thanks for the pics.
 
Arrrrrghhhh Pregrind done and ready for heat treat.. Were are the zombies????
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The fella I'm making it for wants Cocobolo bolsters, Mesquite scales with a white liner. It's part of a pair. If it comes out of the forge with cool scale, than he may leave the flats primitive. If not than it will be fully convexed and polished.. It's a monster at 12.5" blade length, 2.5" blade height, .25" thick O-1.. it has to be about 2.5lbs.
 
cody1 said:
The fella I'm making it for wants Cocobolo bolsters, Mesquite scales with a white liner. It's part of a pair. If it comes out of the forge with cool scale, than he may leave the flats primitive. If not than it will be fully convexed and polished.. It's a monster at 12.5" blade length, 2.5" blade height, .25" thick O-1.. it has to be about 2.5lbs.
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I've seen this done before, though why do you grind it partially like this before HT and then after HT finish it off if you want a convex grind? More specifically, why not just grind closer to what the final convex will be? Looks good though!
 
Update. Heat treat done and she is dead on straight. Tempering now!
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The beast draws ever closer!!!!
 
riz_aaroni said:
I've seen this done before, though why do you grind it partially like this before HT and then after HT finish it off if you want a convex grind? More specifically, why not just grind closer to what the final convex will be? Looks good though!
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I pregrind the knife to remove most of the stock that needs to be removed before heat treat. After heat treat the steel is hard and it takes twice as many belts. You don't want to take too much and have the grind too close to finished before heat treat, because of the scale that will need to be removed and to help the blade stay straight. They tend to warp more easily if they are ground really close to the final shape before heat treat..

almost done!
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I will do the handle shaping today..
 
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