I think that the 9" class of blades is a poor choice in general, it can do many things, but none of them as well as a more specialized blade. If you increase the blade length to 14" you get a major leap in chopping power as a result of the added mass and leverage.
My ideal outdoors setup is comprised of tools which are for the most part optimzed for their prespective tasks:
A GB Scandanavian Forest Axe: A 3/4 size axe that is fairly easy to carry, yet packs a lot of power. In my experience there is no comparison between the chopping power of a small axe vs. a large knife. There is not great loss in diversity of utility with the axe, because a good shaft, like the Gransfors Bruks allows you to choke up on the handle for finer tasks or where more control is required. The GB Small Forest axe (which is slightly smaller) is ideal in this regard.
A Victorinox Fireman's SAK: A million uses, the saw is great. There is jsut too much to write about SAKs to do it here.
A thin 4-5" fixed blade: This is my favorite size knife. The Marble's Gamegetter 2001 shown is near ideal. It is thin (1/8" stock) with a comfortable grip, a very high performance grind (full convex) is easy to carry. The 52100 steel has an optimal balance of strength and tougness. IT is very fined grained and takes a very keen edge.
A Mora: The best wood carving knife I have ever used. Again, there is too much to write about the mora to do it here. It may seem redundant to have to similar sized fixed blades, but as Hoodoo as written elsewhere, the mora is so light that it is silly not to carry at least one. The mora is used for wood work and has also been used many times for baton work.
Cliff,
Also, a blade that you are going to chop with under its own power, is going to under far less strain than one you are going to beat on with a stick, so it can have a lower profile and thus in general cut better.
I disagree that baton work is categoricaly more stressfull to a knife than chopping, my view is actually diameterically oppposed. I find Baton work to be less abusive (with the caveat: When done right!)
Here is why:
First the edge is supported by the wood you are cutting, so the is more of a compression stress rather than an impact impulse. Also because the edge is supported there is less chance of lateral stress on the edge, a main cause of metal failure.
For fixed blades, you are not going to crack the knife in half, however the edge will take more damage from batoning than a knife built for actual chopping simply because it isn't as fluid an action.
I would argue that the motion used in baton work is near identical to that used when chopping and is every bit as fluid a motion.
In addition the force of the impact is spread out over the spine instead of the edge as well as a portion being absorbed by the cugel (thus the indentations in the wood of the baton)
The Mora knife shown in the above pic has been used to baton through several small trees. It has a very thin tang, yet has stood up to substantial baton work. Jimbo has done quite a bit of baton work with the Mora (and knows a thing or two about chopping with an axe too

), maybe he'll stop by and give us his opinion.
Also the size of the baton will influence the stress level placed on the knife (a wider cugel spreads out the impact area)
I have seen edge damage and failure from chopping, but never from baton work.
In general I guess that my experience most closely matches that of Buzzbait in regards to what works best in the outdoors, but we are in a very similar eco-systems. (He's in NY and I'm in MI IIRC)
Take care,
Chad