What's the deal with framelocks?

Bigfatts said:
Have you looked at the Spyderco PPT? It is pretty much what you described- a frame lock that is partially covered with just a portion of the lock bar exposed. Nice looking knife. If you like Ti on both sides check out the Boker Epicenter. It's a buttery smooth and rock solid frame lovk with Ti on both sides.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the I put! Jeez, now I have a huge list to google. :D
 
Some people are put off by knives like the new Southard because of symmetry. I was a bit until I got one. The knife is pretty beefy and it works well. Having the G10 on the non-lock side not only saves your pants, but serves as a great grip when reaching for it.
 
RetiredGuns said:
Some people are put off by knives like the new Southard because of symmetry. I was a bit until I got one. The knife is pretty beefy and it works well. Having the G10 on the non-lock side not only saves your pants, but serves as a great grip when reaching for it.
Click to expand...

The Southard has some beautiful lines. I won't say that it could sway me personally, but I have to give credit for it being a fine knife.
 
RemyKaze said:
I say why not leave JUST the lock portion as exposed metal?
Click to expand...

Bolster lock?
(Image from TAD)
Silbert-3-4-Dauntless-Bolster-Lock-04-lightbox.jpg
 
Even though Lochsha(framelock) is one of my favorite knives ever, I don't like framelocks in general. Better than a liner lock, but purely the design aspect, having part of the handle skewed inside and operating it and wear issues. Overall, Axis, caged ball etc are much better IMHO.
 
Thought I'd throw the LionSteel SR-1 in here:

lionsteel3.jpg


lionsteel2.jpg


^You can't tell from my pictures but not only are the scales both titanium, the entire handle is milled from 1 single piece of titanium--which is kind of cool. (Also comes in aluminum, without damascus, and a smaller model this year.)
 
A few pics of some all ti framelocks.

Shirogorov mod 95

shiro4_zpse4682699.jpg

shiro7_zpscbbbf500.jpg


Fuel Ignite

fuelfront.jpg

fuelback.jpg


Les George FM-1

IMG_2599.jpg

IMG_2601.jpg


Tom Mayo TNT

IMG_3105.jpg

IMG_3109.jpg


SFC C1

IMG_3116.jpg

IMG_3122.jpg


Dustin Turpin Logic

IMG_3972_zps65d93d7f.jpg

IMG_3977_zpsff46927a.jpg
 
Nothing wrong with symmetry, and there are some makers who could custom build a framelock with G10 both sides.

One the other hand, dropping the unneeded extra scale has it's benefits. It's one less part to put labor into, and the the asymmetry has it's own attractiveness. It makes the knife less traditional and more machine like, rather than organic the way traditional styles emphasize.

Strider, Hinderer, ZT, Kershaw, and Boker offer them. Adding to the contrast, a brightly colored G10 scale, and a darker nitrided, flamed, or anodized titanium, aluminum, or steel lock side, with the makers specific machining for the lock and release. You get to see the works working, so to speak, instead of hidden.

Neither is "morally" wrong, just a different way to make a knife, just as a Ducati Monster Dark is different compared to a HD Road King. Some prefer one or the other. Mess with knives long enough, you may catch yourself coming back the other way. I'm disposing of my fat liner locks and keeping the framelocks. Asymmetry has it's advantages.
 
I was going to suggest the Benchmade Monolock . As a good low cost frame lock but I think we are past that price point.
 
rycen said:
There are many frame lock knives that have the same material on the front as the back. If the frame lock was covered it would be a liner lock. The reason why some are different materials is you can cut down on the weight of the knife and will also add more grip.
Click to expand...

Mnandi is a frame lock that is covered, I don't consider it a liner lock.
 
Dissimilar sides is a fairly recent development. Since the frame lock was first presented as an exercise in simplicity, adding scales worked counter to that. To add a scale to the lock side, it either gets thicker or there is a lot of milling that has to be done to keep the lock bar the same thickness but reduce the rest of the frame to liner thickness. The lock bar can be added separately, like the sub-frame lock, and Elishewitz made bolster locks in a style a bit different from Sibert as well. Some frame locks also have thin inlays/onlays, like the old Tyrade.
 
Boker Epicenter is an all ti scaled framelock with a vg-10 blade for around $130.
 
The Kershaw Cryo has stainless steel on both sides, and is rather nice. It's a little dense for EDC in light dress pants, but fine otherwise.

The Benchmade 755 MPR and the Spyderco Sage 2 have been mentioned already. They are the two mid-high end knives that sprang to mind when I read your post.

Also, some of you may laugh, but one of my favorite framelocks is still the CRKT KISS. I've had mine since the early 2000's and it's been great the whole time. It isn't "symmetrical" but the handle is all one material. :D
 
franzdom said:
Mnandi is a frame lock that is covered, I don't consider it a liner lock.
Click to expand...

Quite a bit different than the run-of-the-mill liner lock as the scales are actually inset rather than simply on top so I would agree.
 
I love full titainum frame locks.

I'm also not a huge fan of different material types on either side. I do like the feel of the G10 on my ZT506 but I'd kill for a Ti scale. As far as I know, no one makes them. I just like the feel of a full metal knife. Also the frame lock on my ZT560 is not very smooth. Kinda sticky. By far the smoothest full Ti frame lock is my Sage 2. It's almost a grail knife for me.
 
For EDC, I'm not a huge fan of all metal during the winter. I live in a lake effect snow belt, and EDCing a smooth all metal knife in the cold and wet is asking for a self inflicted injury.

For indoor fondling, indoor and warm weather EDC, all metal is fine. As I said, I love my CRKT KISS, but I'd never want to have to depend on it outdoors in this weather.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top