What's the fascination with 80CrV2?

Cassull

Cassull

Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
318
I see soooooooooo many knifemakers use this steel now for their fixed blades. I don't understand the appeal of this steel other than the toughness.

According to charts like: https://creelyblades.com/steel-charts and https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/10...ness-edge-retention-and-corrosion-resistance/ it's very mediocre steel compared to others. It has mediocre edge retention, no corrosion resistance, and. good toughness.

I'm not saying it's bad steel, but it does look like mediocre steel for these $250+ dollar blades that are using them in. Why use 80CrV2 as opposed to something like AEBL which looks just as tough BUT with better edge retention and corrosion resistance? Or 3V which is excellent fixed blade steel.
 
I can’t speak for the makers, but my knives in 80CrV2 are great outdoors knives. They hold an edge well, are plenty tough, easy to sharpen. My Skrama 240 and Deibert Chopper have been simply great hacking tree limbs, processing firewood, and such.

I love AEB-L and 3V as well. Add in MagnaCut and you have my 4 favorite steels.
 
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It has a lot of toughness. I like sharpening Carbon Steel and Like how it holds an edge. I sure would not turn a knife down because of that steel choice. I have some in a similar steel 52100 that I like. Do have to put a coating of oil or lube on them. Especially in rain.
 
Steel choice is almost irrelevant....most knife steels will give good results.

Yes, I'm oversimplifying it, but it's true.

Steel, and heat treatment are nowhere near as important as geometry.
Not even close.

But, sexy steels and marketing sell knives.

Nothing wrong with 80crv2.
But I agree AEB-L and her Sisters is hard to top

Few knife types I'm really fussy with insisting certain steels.
Hunter would be one. Specialized edc. And other high abrasive cutting needs.
Otherwise, for Most knives.....I like Lots of different steels.

Edge Geometry, handle design, and Makers reputation is More important to me!
 
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Assuming the heat treat and edge geometry are dialed in, 80crv2 has its place in the cutlery world. It’s one of the few “simple” carbon steels that can be considered a good beginner steel because it’s easy to heat treat. It may not hold an edge as well as higher carbon steels or support a thin edge for kitchen use, but it still makes one heck of a chopper or hatchet because it is super tough. Not to mention that the steel is very cost efficient as well.
 
A lot of hard use outdoorsy knives from some makers love the stuff and I've had no complaints using it. Some people will be worried about corrosion from moisture, but when it's used by a number of Scandinavian knife makers it suggests that it's fine if you look after your kit.

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Cassull said:
which looks just as tough
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Here's the answer.

Numbers in charts are often just that - numbers in charts.

There is indeed some truth to them, but it could be a fluke, it could be that different makers have different HT or different suppliers which account for different results... it could be a number of factors.

My personal opinion is that availability, price and ease of HT and how easy it is to work with are one of driving factors.
 
Personally, I like 80crv2. It is very tough, has good edge stability (can be run with very thin edges), for the makers it is supposed to be easy to heat treat, and cost effective. Obviously, if you need a specialized cutting tool that requires cutting abrasive materials all day or constant exposure to water and corrosive conditions, you should look elsewhere. But, for general purposes it is just fine.
 
Because a lot of other factors go into the maker's choice of steels than charts of theoretical performance. The main factor is probably the maker's skill level and equipment availability and whether they do stock removal or forging or both. Forging stainless is much more difficult than forging carbon steel, such that most makers using stainless will do stock removal instead of forging. Heat treating stainless is more complicated than heat treating carbon steel. Heat treating and forging high-alloy tool steels like 3V is harder still. Knifemakers who mainly forge will almost always be using carbon steels, and 80CRV2 is one of the favorites for its forgiving nature, good toughness, and good sharpenability. Also, very traditional knifemakers who are Knifemaker's Guild ranked smiths will almost always only do carbon steel, as the Knifemaker's Guild doesn't allow you to put your J.S. or M.S. stamp on stainless stock removal knives.
 
In some ways you're right, in that it's not outstanding in any area. But it's tough, easy to sharpen, holds an edge ok. and should be cheap. I'm not sure about paying $600 for some of the knives using it... though I do have a hatchet that was that much. The jakaaripuuko is one of the toughest knives I've seen abused in "use" testing.
It's an easy steel for makers to work with, pretty forgiving on the forge, and in heat treat. And really, most of the time "good enough," really is good enough.

And you have to view those charts with a little bit of healthy skepticism. For example, Knife steel nerds give a much lower toughness rating to S125V than the Creely chart. Creely rates S45V much higher for toughness than it does for Cru-Wear and CPM-M4 than knife steel nerds. Different edge geometries? Different heat treat? Different method of measuring?
 
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DMG said:
How does it compare to 1095 or 52100?
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This topic with 1095 has been talked about A lot.
It's sorta kinda Crap.

*I'm a Beckerhead btw.....I have lots of 1095.
When thick spines. Wide angles. Thick behind the edge. Run Soft..... it's Ok/good enough. Nothing to write home about.

Ask almost Anyone if they'd rather have their Becker's in 52100, Procut, or AEB-L ?
The answer would be Yes!!!!

52100 vs 80crv2?
For What?
Both can make good blades....

Being Very general..... assuming good heat treatment.
If it was a Big Beater, I'd choose 80crv2.
If it was a knife, I'd choose 52100.

But Honestly... Pick the design you like. Pick the Maker you like. Pick the handle you find more comfortable. That's more important.
Either steel can make a good knife.
 
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