What's your beater knife/knives?

Here's my hard use fixed blade...

A 50's-60's C Andersson Mora #2
50s-60s%20Carl%20Andersson%202_zpsri0f3ira.jpg


Still solid and razor sharp despite being filed, put on a grinder and batoned with what had to be a hammer....she's on her second life with me at the farm. :thumbup:
 
palonej said:
I love it. It's a monster slicer and plenty tough! I love how Spydie rounded the spine also. Gimping is perfect and the choil allows you to choke way up.
I use mine as a work knife so it gets abused and just keeps cutting.
Mine is s35vn so it hold an edge well and sharpens easily.
It also locks up extremely tight......great little knife!
Joe
Click to expand...

I tried one and I thought the same thing! I don't know what makes the blade much different than other blades, but it slices like a hot knife through butter!


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I've been a carpenter for 45 years and most knife-related tasks on the job--cutting felt, shingles, poly, drywall, and the like--are handled with a retractable utility/razor knife. I've always carried a pocket knife, though, and an early one-hand-opener for me was a Buck Adrenalin which became my beater for scraping, pulling staples, cleaning up glue and caulk, etc. I broke the tip off twice and re-ground it to the point that I couldn't even get a decent edge on it (until I got an EdgePro years later and used the knife for practice). Maybe it was a POS, but I had it in my pocket for a lotta years and it's still an old favorite. Here it is with a newer Adrenalin (that I never ended up carrying) to show how short and worn it became.

uY0HfBB.jpg


My current on-the-job carry consists of both a beater and a cutter. The beater needs be sturdy, partially serrated, easily re-sharpened, and reasonably inexpensive. Most often that knife is a Tenacious or a RAT.

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Somewhere in the middle is my 551SBK Grip with canvas Micarta scales.

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At the other end of the work-knife carry is the cutter which should have good steel, take a very keen edge, and keep it. Uses could be as pedestrian as sharpening a pencil or cutting down a box, but a keen edge might take a little out of a hinge mortise or shave a taste off the back of a casing to close a joint, a more appropriate tool being too many steps away. Of course, it's always nice to have a really good knife in your pocket for a user (not an abuser). For the last year or so, that knife has been my KnifeArt CF large Sebenza, but it seems to be sharing that role lately with my Wilson Combat Eagle.

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ChazzyP said:
I've been a carpenter for 45 years and most knife-related tasks on the job--cutting felt, shingles, poly, drywall, and the like--are handled with a retractable utility/razor knife. I've always carried a pocket knife, though, and an early one-hand-opener for me was a Buck Adrenalin which became my beater for scraping, pulling staples, cleaning up glue and caulk, etc. I broke the tip off twice and re-ground it to the point that I couldn't even get a decent edge on it (until I got an EdgePro years later and used the knife for practice). Maybe it was a POS, but I had it in my pocket for a lotta years and it's still an old favorite. Here it is with a newer Adrenalin (that I never ended up carrying) to show how short and worn it became.



My current on-the-job carry consists of both a beater and a cutter. The beater needs be sturdy, partially serrated, easily re-sharpened, and reasonably inexpensive. Most often that knife is a Tenacious or a RAT.



Somewhere in the middle is my 551SBK Grip with

At the other end of the work-knife carry is the cutter which should have good steel, take a very keen edge, and keep it. Uses could be as pedestrian as sharpening a pencil or cutting down a box, but a keen edge might take a little out of a hinge mortise or shave a taste off the back of a casing to close a joint, a more appropriate tool being too many steps away. Of course, it's always nice to have a really good knife in your pocket for a user (not an abuser). For the last year or so, that knife has been my KnifeArt CF large Sebenza, but it seems to be sharing that role lately with my Wilson Combat Eagle.
Click to expand...

Hey Steve!!
Been in HVAC for 40 years and I do the same mostly......beater, Native or Millie. I also always carry something nice to either flick away during long drives or just cut with.
I have a utility knife, Stanley something, for those cuts when I'm on concrete or scoring duct work.
Having a nice keen edged blade can make the difference when cutting thick insulation. Clean cut on flex duct connections is the difference between a job that looks like an abortion or looks professionally done.
Plus......who doesn't want to carry a bad ass blade??
[emoji1][emoji1]
Joe
 
palonej said:
Hey Steve!!
Been in HVAC for 40 years and I do the same mostly......beater, Native or Millie. I also always carry something nice to either flick away during long drives or just cut with.
I have a utility knife, Stanley something, for those cuts when I'm on concrete or scoring duct work.
Having a nice keen edged blade can make the difference when cutting thick insulation. Clean cut on flex duct connections is the difference between a job that looks like an abortion or looks professionally done.
Plus......who doesn't want to carry a bad ass blade??
[emoji1][emoji1]
Joe
Click to expand...

Hey Joe,
Saw your "tools" posts in the DT thread. Hope they've calmed down now and you feel safe in your truck, brother.
--Steve
 
I'm still looking over my shoulder brother!!!
[emoji51][emoji51][emoji51]
 
I dont pry with my knives and rarely chip edges but my knives are tools and are used as such, so ill use my sebenza 21 the same as I would my delica 4, I do however cut a lot of fruit for lunch and will usually carry a seperate knife for food prep just so im not cutting food with the same blade ive been cutting everything else with.

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Mine is a kershaw blur tanto
A already chipped the tip off prying apart B vent on a water heater. Just used a grinder and made a new tip.
If it breaks again I'll just pay kershaw the $10.00 and have them replace the blade


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