What's your favorite steel?

How do you sharpen these? I've been interested in getting one but that's been a big sticking point for me, since I thought it needed special equipment. Would be interested to know the process.

Thanks
I achieved success using diamond stones with 1000 grit and 3000 grit only. Edge leading strokes only using very light pressure and traverse the entire edge with each stroke. Be very gentle with the edge as to avoid chipping. Monitor progress with a microscope and don't overdo it. I don't know what is important and what is not, this is just what worked for me. I got to a BESS of 200, so, not blazing sharp but by no means dull.

Previously, I tried a progression of diamonds starting at 600 grit using normal pressure with scrubbing strokes and ended up with a horribly chipped out edge.
 
I have to retract my statement about not being able to tell my s30/35s apart. I have a spartan blades kranos in s35vn on the sharpener right now and it is the hardest one yet. I've been working with my coarsest stone for 5 hours of and on. I still haven't gotten it apexed. I think I'm close. I hope I am anyways...
 
I have to retract my statement about not being able to tell my s30/35s apart. I have a spartan blades kranos in s35vn on the sharpener right now and it is the hardest one yet. I've been working with my coarsest stone for 5 hours of and on. I still haven't gotten it apexed. I think I'm close. I hope I am anyways...
5 hours? As in five? Earth hours? Holly crap, you would have found me at the hardware store buying a 1x42 belt grinder 4 1/2 hours ago 😮😂
 
I think it came with something like a 23-25dps. That with it sounds/feels crazy hard. 5 hours off and on is probably less than it's been. I'm stubborn and won't sharpen higher than 20 degrees. I hope it doesn't chip cause maybe I'll go back to 23 if it does...
 
Well, we all know what opinions are like but i’ll put it out there, 3V, , 80crv2, 14n28c, cruwear and, of course, 1095 crovan. So many out there that I am not aware of. You read enough to realize heat treatment and geometry are critical but done correctly good steel, good geometry and good heat treat make these days the best time ever to be a steel geek, kinda like beer!!!
 
Here's what I would say.

Chromium steels, aebl (and it's variants); xhp; and zdp, in order of high toughness low abrasion resistance to low toughness high abrasion resistance with xhp being balanced. All of these are very easy to sharpen and maintain. zdp in lower toughness applications, takes incredible edges, very easily at that, aside from chipping due to impacts it holds an edge like 10v but it sharpens more like vg10. Highly under rated and poorly understood imo. AEBL might be the goat all around steel. xhp is a great balanced profile chromium steel. It's got exceptionally good properties, better than you might suspect, considering it a chromium steel it holds it's own and even beat out some of the stainless vanadium steels in it's class in a lot of ways. Really good stuff.

I find that with Vanadium steels, including the stainless variants both the traditional ones and the newcomer, because of the maintenance profile which honestly requires non traditional abrasives to satisfy I find that the tradeoff isn't so straightforward, often times in many use cases you're better off going for the higher resistance variants. Once you cross that threshold of around 3 or 4% vanadium in a steel, you are in a different maintenance profile from "normal" chromium steels so there is no reason not to maximize that with a baseline ie for toughness in mind. IDK if I did a good job explaining that, but I'm sure others have had the same thoughts. In this realm, I think there are many great steels for many uses, obviously if corrosion isnt a major issue everything from 3v to 10v and maybe even beyond that have reasonable use cases. I really like a lot of things about magnacut too, it's very interesting in many ways, I like that it has really good toughness at high hardness, for instance at 64 rc it's about the same toughness as aebl with maybe twice the real world edge retention excellent stainlessness to boot. The one downside is course maintenance, it's going to be more difficult to machine, that could be grinding, sharpening, polishing, whatever, than any chromium steel. I'm looking forward to the future versions of it which are tweaked to have more/less in terms of toughness/abrasion balance. Considering how stainless it is and it's hardenability/toughness profile it's not hard to justify for normal folks who have to consider the lower machinability vs chromium steels. I still think s30v is about as good and well balanced of a steel as anyone would ever need for most "normal" knives. Beyond that, it's s90v that makes the most sense for the high resistance lower toughness variants unless for some reason you need the extra stainlessness associated with s110v. The variants of 10v all have their uses. For higher hardness you're better off with 10v, for lower hardness you're better off with Vanadis 8 because it will have more toughness, k390 is right in the middle.

Some of the high speed steels are interesting also, like say m4 is a great one, thought I'd generally not a big fan of the ones with a lot of cobalt. m4 like I said, also zmax at the lower toughness end. I'm not super big on high speed steels for knives.

lc200n is an interesting steel for high toughness and corrosion resistance. I'd like to see this used as cladding on high performance knives with straight vanadium steels like say 10v at 65 rc in a crazy kitchen knife or say a non hard use edc. Vanax and vancron also look interesting in their own ways. Nitrogen steels are interesting in their own ways.
 
Last edited:
... I really like a lot of things about magnacut too, it's very interesting in many ways, I like that it has really good toughness at high hardness, for instance at 64 rc it's about the same toughness as aebl with maybe twice the real world edge retention excellent stainlessness to boot....
Magnacut is truly a ground-breaking steel for what it is and toughness is great. It's not nearly as tough as AEB-L though.

Edit: I realized you were comparing AEB-L and Magnacut both at 64 HRC. On Larrin's charts they are in the same ballpark at that hardness. Neither steel is particularly common at 64, especially AEB-L, but OK.
 
Last edited:
Cpm3v and 1095. Also Fallkniven laminated vg10. Yes vg10. I’ve beat and beat on them. One time i beat my A1 through a wrist size piece of oak with knots that just before rolled the egde of my scandinivan forest axe.
 
Magnacut is truly a ground-breaking steel for what it is and toughness is great. It's not nearly as tough as AEB-L though.

Edit: I realized you were comparing AEB-L and Magnacut both at 64 HRC. On Larrin's charts they are in the same ballpark at that hardness. Neither steel is particularly common at 64, especially AEB-L, but OK.
They are "common" in high end custom kitchen knives, which I'm very much into, like the stuff Devin Thomas would make. I'd take aebl at >63rc over basically any other low alloy steel for a kitchen knife. Ofc it needs to be ground incredibly thin otherwise it's pointless, which is the whole point, why steels with good hardenability and good toughness at high hardness are so desirable for this. Please no cobalt steels.

And yes, steels obviously vary in properties based on how they are "heat treated." Nothing is as simple or straightforward as many folks would like to make it out to be. Abrasion resistance is fairy simple and linearly increases somewhere in the range of 1% to 2% for each additional rc in terms of the same steel obviously, but toughness isnt quite so straightforward. Steels which can readily take high hardness and maintain good toughness, with fine grain structure, will have the best fine edge properties like taking wicked edges with a lot of edge stability. AEBL is just fan fucking tastic. I still think Magnacut is cool asf and the steel of the future. The fact that it has about the same toughness as AEBL when it's at high hardness is money. The only consistent and major downside is it's poor (relative to chromium steels) machinability and thus maintenance. I suspect in the future they're going to release variants on it.
 
I think it came with something like a 23-25dps. That with it sounds/feels crazy hard. 5 hours off and on is probably less than it's been. I'm stubborn and won't sharpen higher than 20 degrees. I hope it doesn't chip cause maybe I'll go back to 23 if it does...
S35VN (which is on my list of favorites) should not be that difficult to sharpen. My Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter with S35VN had been rather battered lately, with BESS scores in the 300 to 500 range. The bevel was somewhat convexed from 21 to 17 degrees. Just now, I did a mild reprofile to a 19 degree V bevel using my new Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust. Took 20 minutes on the 220 grit plate to set the profile, plus 15 minutes to go through the other six plates. Result: BESS 200 on the belly and BESS 150 on the straightaway. I did not hurry because I am just getting used to the sharpener. During that time, I also let a cat in, let a cat out, and had a cold beverage.

You might want to visit the Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment forum to talk about sharpening S35VN.
 
For a slightly different answer, to make into a knife and use: CPM 20CV. This steel is just super agreeable for me at every stage of making a piece of it into a knife blade; milling, heat treating, surface finishing, sharpening, and using pretty much daily. I absolutely love this stuff, plenty tough for anything I'd ask of a pocket knife, as I know that is a concern for some. It's also relatively easy to keep sharp with minimal maintenance. Resisting corrosion is very important for my own use, which this steel does very well.

Runners up include CPM 154, 14C28N and S110V, though for different reasons.

I've not yet tried MagnaCut, though I'm looking forward to that in a future project. I have a feeling it'll displace some of my current choices.
 
Another Shepherd Another Shepherd

I was frustrated with it taking so long but I wouldn't give up. I slept on it and had a great idea this am. I resurfaced the stone and it was a lot easier. I also pulled out a buck in s35vn with a bos heat treat to use and compare to the spartan. I'm pretty sure the spartan is really hard compared to the buck but I haven't been using the buck in awhile.
 
Favorite steel is so subjective. I'd be surprised if the average knife user could tell the difference between D2 & Magnacut. Most quality knives produced today will outlive their owners if used/maintained probably, regardless of steel. M4 & satin D2 do just fine for me in a coastal state with 45 inches of rain a year.
Each steel is also going to be different from every knife maker. Some makers have notoriously low HRC, while others seem to value hardness above all else. Add to this you can have makers produce a similar knife in the same steel at the same HRC, yet they can have different toughness & wear resistance. Also there can be differences between two different mills making the same spec'd plate.

All that said i love Benchmades lower HRC M390 with slightly better toughness but still gets & keeps an amazing edge. M4 & Elmax can become mind-blowing slicers.
 
It’s a tough one between INFI, Tops’ 1095, D3V, SR101, MMHW 5160, and Lauren Metalli’s 80CRV2. To me, it’s not just the steel, but also the Maker’s heat treat that defines it.

Edited for clarity: I can only go by what I have experience with. If I ultimately had to choose one, then D3V.
 
Back
Top