What's Your Favorite Type of Lock on a Folding Knife??

1. Axis. Perhaps the easiest to open & close, and the lock mechanism isn't near your grip.
2. Ball Bearing. Slightly stiffer than the axis lock.
3. Frame. Easy to close one-handed as well as a stronger lockup than a liner lock.
4. Liner. The thicker, the better -- but easy to close one-handed.
5. Lockback. More secure than a liner lock but it's not as convenient.
 
+1 for Compression, frame then Axis although not a huge BM fan either. I do have a few nice Golds however but I like a good hard use knife.
 
Got a PM2 yesterday, and I'm having a bit of trouble with the compression lock. I'm sure I need to build up the muscles to operate the thing smoothly, however, I forgot that I cut (smashed) my right index finger a few years ago and it's still a bit sensitive. Lol, I don't know how I forgot about that. Most of the tip has very little feeling, and the sides are extra sensitive. I'll have to use my thumb until I get it figured out.

If there's one thing I learned with this knife hobby 'thing,' it's the importance of muscle memory. Without it, it can be easy to get careless and cut yourself.

I've been trying different locks. I have a Gerber with the FAST system, liner-lock, back-lock, Axis and now compression. After building the muscle memory, I like all of them.
 
vanslem6 said:
Got a PM2 yesterday, and I'm having a bit of trouble with the compression lock. I'm sure I need to build up the muscles to operate the thing smoothly, however, I forgot that I cut (smashed) my right index finger a few years ago and it's still a bit sensitive. Lol, I don't know how I forgot about that. Most of the tip has very little feeling, and the sides are extra sensitive. I'll have to use my thumb until I get it figured out.

If there's one thing I learned with this knife hobby 'thing,' it's the importance of muscle memory. Without it, it can be easy to get careless and cut yourself.

I've been trying different locks. I have a Gerber with the FAST system, liner-lock, back-lock, Axis and now compression. After building the muscle memory, I like all of them.
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Yes, give your finger time to heal. I found sometimes the pivot screw just needs the tiniest bit of loosening, and sometimes it needs to be taken down, cleaned, and lubed. This will very likely make it smoother, but it will also void your warranty with Spyderco. Before you do that, make sure nothing is wrong with it first, and you'll likely not ruin anything by taking it down with a proper torx kit, because they are made very well.
 
I amnot no fancy boy, I weant my last folder to be about function, non foo foo. I chose an Emerson CQC-7 as it is functional, does what I need it too do, and hope I never have to use it for the purpose the knife was built for. The defending of my life. JMHO
 
Akapennypincher said:
I amnot no fancy boy, I weant my last folder to be about function, non foo foo. I chose an Emerson CQC-7 as it is functional, does what I need it too do, and hope I never have to use it for the purpose the knife was built for. The defending of my life. JMHO
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The thing is, while Emersons do have a great reputation for reliability, liner locks in general don't have the greatest reputation for consistent reliability or lock strength compared to other locks. Also, liner locks, backlocks and button locks are the most common locks found on "gentlemen's knives", so I'm not sure what you mean when you're talking about "foo foo" locks.
 
Generally, I'm not a Spyderco fan (heresy!), but the PM2 is my FAVORITE knife and one of the major reason is the compression lock (once you get the blasted thing adjusted correctly, since they are apparently incapable of doing it from the factory)... so compression lock is #1. #2 would be SOG's version of the Axis-Lock, which they call the Arc-Lock. #3 would be the Benchmade Axis-lock, although (again heresy!) I find they generally work smoother on my Ganzos than on my Gripitians/Mini-Griptilians (which are the only Benchmades I have).

vanslem6 said:
Got a PM2 yesterday, and I'm having a bit of trouble with the compression lock. I'm sure I need to build up the muscles to operate the thing smoothly, however, I forgot that I cut (smashed) my right index finger a few years ago and it's still a bit sensitive. Lol, I don't know how I forgot about that. Most of the tip has very little feeling, and the sides are extra sensitive. I'll have to use my thumb until I get it figured out.
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vanslem6, I didn't read your post before I started this message. I'm sure I've told this story more than once here, so I'll attempt to keep it brief. You are probably having an issue because it is not adjusted correctly, because Spyderco seems incapable of shipping a $100+ knife adjusted correctly. There is a video about this on YouTube Lock Stick on Para-Military 2 & Spyderco Warranty Fail?. I had exactly the same issue when I got my first PM2 (and my second, about a year later for that matter). I contacted Spyderco to ask if this would be something that would be covered under warranty. The reply I received, as the video mentions, was that I could send the knife to them with a check for $5.00 return shipping and I might have to pay an additional $20.00 if it wasn't a warranty issue... so they actually didn't even answer my question. This left me with a very poor impression of Spyderco's warranty service... I have dealt with both Kershaw and SOG with no such issues.

Anyway, since I wasn't going to send my knife in under those terms, I did a bit of searching, and found that you must loosen the screws for the stop pin on top of knife, use some needle nose pliers or such to rotate that stop pin a bit, retighten the screws and try again. Repeat this, rotating the stop pin, until you find a spot where the compression lock works properly. Then retighten the screws with 243 LocTite. I'll admit that I PERSONALLY don't understand how this affects the tightness of the compression lock, but it does. :thumbup:

And in response to SliCed's comment about taking down a PM2, by FAR the worst part, if you are going that far, is the lanyard insert at the end, because it is peened (not sure that is the right word for it) outwards at both ends, so it has to be kind of pried out and back in, which isn't easy. Also be aware that the blade pivot insert is not reversible and is directional (may sound obvious, but through me for a MAJOR LOOP for a while once...:confused: ).
 
Whatever doesn't fail is always nice. I like frame locks over liner locks, and I do enjoy the axis lock, too. I feel like the axis lock and frame locks are safer than liner locks, but I know that it really depends on the maker.
 
rsngfrce said:
Generally, I'm not a Spyderco fan (heresy!), but the PM2 is my FAVORITE knife and one of the major reason is the compression lock (once you get the blasted thing adjusted correctly, since they are apparently incapable of doing it from the factory)... so compression lock is #1. #2 would be SOG's version of the Axis-Lock, which they call the Arc-Lock. #3 would be the Benchmade Axis-lock, although (again heresy!) I find they generally work smoother on my Ganzos than on my Gripitians/Mini-Griptilians (which are the only Benchmades I have).



vanslem6, I didn't read your post before I started this message. I'm sure I've told this story more than once here, so I'll attempt to keep it brief. You are probably having an issue because it is not adjusted correctly, because Spyderco seems incapable of shipping a $100+ knife adjusted correctly. There is a video about this on YouTube Lock Stick on Para-Military 2 & Spyderco Warranty Fail?. I had exactly the same issue when I got my first PM2 (and my second, about a year later for that matter). I contacted Spyderco to ask if this would be something that would be covered under warranty. The reply I received, as the video mentions, was that I could send the knife to them with a check for $5.00 return shipping and I might have to pay an additional $20.00 if it wasn't a warranty issue... so they actually didn't even answer my question. This left me with a very poor impression of Spyderco's warranty service... I have dealt with both Kershaw and SOG with no such issues.

Anyway, since I wasn't going to send my knife in under those terms, I did a bit of searching, and found that you must loosen the screws for the stop pin on top of knife, use some needle nose pliers or such to rotate that stop pin a bit, retighten the screws and try again. Repeat this, rotating the stop pin, until you find a spot where the compression lock works properly. Then retighten the screws with 243 LocTite. I'll admit that I PERSONALLY don't understand how this affects the tightness of the compression lock, but it does. :thumbup:

And in response to SliCed's comment about taking down a PM2, by FAR the worst part, if you are going that far, is the lanyard insert at the end, because it is peened (not sure that is the right word for it) outwards at both ends, so it has to be kind of pried out and back in, which isn't easy. Also be aware that the blade pivot insert is not reversible and is directional (may sound obvious, but through me for a MAJOR LOOP for a while once...:confused: ).
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I agree with you here. The Para 2 is easily one of my favorite knives, and imo the compression lock is currently the best choice for a folding knife, but it has its issues. I actually do not disassemble it all the way. I loosen the screws and get into the pivot and the washers and quickly wipe down the liners without taking them out. I don't have a good reason to force the lanyard tube away from the scales, so I don't. Also, to add to this, even though this is one of my favorite designs, there is more that Spyderco has done that makes this knife not work correctly sometimes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXm1qk3nEGQ This video shows that blade play can be created by Spyderco drilling the holes for the pocket clip right below the washer, and those holes build tiny mounds around the pocket clip holes which cause the washer not to sit flush with the liner. Also, people have said that they have rid sticky lock and loosened the action on the knife by taking out the lockbar side of the liner, and bent the lockbar backwards to reduce lock tension on the tang. I don't know if I recommend that, especially as a first solution.

My first Para 2, I thought I had the blade play because of the video I mentioned, but it turned out (which was obvious when I got it) that I just needed to tighten the pivot screw. I didn't want to mess with it since I was beginner, but I took it down one day, and put it back together and the play was fixed, which is why I recommended that. The Para 2 had come to me with the pivot screw noticeable elevated and not screwed in all the way, but loctited that way. So, yes even Spyderco, which I am a fan, can ship out knives in less than perfect order. -And you're not a heretic- :)
 
SliCed said:
I agree with you here. The Para 2 is easily one of my favorite knives, and imo the compression lock is currently the best choice for a folding knife, but it has its issues. I actually do not disassemble it all the way. I loosen the screws and get into the pivot and the washers and quickly wipe down the liners without taking them out. I don't have a good reason to force the lanyard tube away from the scales, so I don't. Also, to add to this, even though this is one of my favorite designs, there is more that Spyderco has done that makes this knife not work correctly sometimes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXm1qk3nEGQ This video shows that blade play can be created by Spyderco drilling the holes for the pocket clip right below the washer, and those holes build tiny mounds around the pocket clip holes which cause the washer not to sit flush with the liner. Also, people have said that they have rid sticky lock and loosened the action on the knife by taking out the lockbar side of the liner, and bent the lockbar backwards to reduce lock tension on the tang. I don't know if I recommend that, especially as a first solution.

My first Para 2, I thought I had the blade play because of the video I mentioned, but it turned out (which was obvious when I got it) that I just needed to tighten the pivot screw. I didn't want to mess with it since I was beginner, but I took it down one day, and put it back together and the play was fixed, which is why I recommended that. The Para 2 had come to me with the pivot screw noticeable elevated and not screwed in all the way, but loctited that way. So, yes even Spyderco, which I am a fan, can ship out knives in less than perfect order. -And you're not a heretic- :)
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Just an FYI, the reason I had to remove the lanyard tube insert was to install a Cuscadi geared backspacer. I wasn't sure I liked it at first, but I decided I like the slight increase in grip it gives me, so I have one on two of my three PM2's now.

But your story about being a beginner is funny, because I am in the same boat, and we learn as we go! My first PM2 I got disassembled and back together without issue. Then, about a year later, doing the same thing with the second, got it back together and I could tell something just wasn't right. I couldn't get the blade to open smoothly no matter how much I loosened the pivot. Eventually disassembled it again. LESSON #1... DO NOT USE an excessive amount of loctite on the blade pivot screw... I had not considered it an excessive amount, but it had worked its way onto the BLADE AND THE WASHER! NOT GOOD! LESSON #2... having closely followed videos on PM2 disassembly/reassembly the first time, I figured I knew what I was doing this time... and eventually figured out (as mention in my prior post) that I had put the blade pivot insert in upside down. Well, if we don't make mistakes, we don't learn I guess... :rolleyes:

And thanks for not considering me a heretic! ;)
 
Yeah, I understand about the lanyard tube. I was speaking to beginners in generalities I guess. I haven't had to use loctite yet on my knives, so when the time comes then I shall. But, I'm glad you told your stories, the stop pin rotation is an interesting thing to keep in mind. I had a similar problem a year ago when I was new to knives, I started taking down my Persistence and Tenacious knives, and it took me an 1 1/2 hours to figure out that the pivot wasn't perfectly circular and that it had a flat portion that needed to be in the perfect position. Man, was I pissed haha! I wanted to forget folding knives all together for about an hour, but now I'm an intermediate sharpener and have an intermediate knowledge of knives & steels. I'm still learning new brands all the time, it's a fun hobby, and it's fun to come on here and share things with fellow blade knuts.
 
Kaizen1 said:
The thing is, while Emersons do have a great reputation for reliability, liner locks in general don't have the greatest reputation for consistent reliability or lock strength compared to other locks. Also, liner locks, backlocks and button locks are the most common locks found on "gentlemen's knives", so I'm not sure what you mean when you're talking about "foo foo" locks.
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My personal experence is with the one Emerson I own. There are a lot of people who talk bad about Emersons. I think a lot of the haters are INTERNET TROLLS.
 
If I could put one lock on all the knives I own, it would be the compression lock. The captive ball lock comes in a very close 2nd.
 
Akapennypincher said:
My personal experence is with the one Emerson I own. There are a lot of people who talk bad about Emersons. I think a lot of the haters are INTERNET TROLLS.
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I've owned several Emersons and I like them just fine. One of my main EDCs is an Emerson/ Zero Tolerance. In any case, I don't see how this comment has anything to do with my post. You mentioned that you carry your Emerson and don't mess with "foo foo knives." My comment was about how there are plenty of locks that have shown less issues with strength and reliability than liner locks.

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For me, the liner lock is my favorite. Second would be the frame lock. Unfortunately I haven't owned any 'axis' lock knives. :( Between the frame/liner lock designs I say the 'liner' lock because it is more aesthetically pleasing. I understand the strength of the frame lock design but I think it degrades the overall appearance of the knife.
 
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