sorry so late fellas and sistas, just got back from the thursday night mountain bike ride. A little sore, I ate it hard

But I'm here to deliver the goods!!!
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Now that it's time to put in the guard shoulders, I put the piece of O1 with the guard drawn on it, back on the knife, but this time with a more substantial clamp;
This came directly from Tim Hancock. I fought for years with the file guide moving around while trying to clamp it down tight. I don't like putting the guide metal to metal with the blade. Then Tim told me about using post-it notes. They will stay in place AND protect the blade;
Since my blades have a distal taper that starts right after the ricasso, and I like short ricassos... this doesn't leave me with much of a flat area to clamp the file guide to. This sketch shows what happens when you clamp a file guide down on a tapered surface;
I've messed with a lot of things to alleviate the problem in the previous picture, and here's what has proven to work (and it's ridiculously simple) 3 extra post-its above the plunge cut, where the distal taper starts;
This sketch shows how the file guide comes together with the post-it note shims in place;
Now I can just butt the file guide up to my piece of O1, and the guide will be right where I need it to so that my guard shoulders will be right where I want them;
Now to make sure that the file guide came together like I drew it in the second sketch, I take the highest quality, FLAT tool I have in the shop (a Starrett square head) and check it with light coming in from behind it;
Close up of the same;
Over to the KMG we go, to grind down the tang/ricasso closer to where we want the guard shoulders to be (with a 60grit belt). I do NOT grind all the way to the file guide with this set-up;
Here's a 10 cent tip. If you put the guide onto the blade the way I did, you can put it on the KMG tool rest with the screws of the file guide facing up, and still get the tang in between the platen and tool arm. If the blade were turned 180, the tang would hit the tool arm;