- Joined
- Apr 15, 2002
- Messages
- 3,376
I would think that I would use a knife at that price point until it was no longer functional. If the blade begins to sit proud of the handle, I would try to grind it down (I don't really have much use for a needle tip, I regularly use a sheepsfoot blade at work.) I need to get the most mileage out of my knives since I can't really afford or justify to replace anything right now. With an eighth of an inch sharpened away and a reground tip, if you are offended aesthetically by the knife send it to me
. J/k if you don't want to carry it the way it looks, stick it in your glove box or workshop and use it for the crappy jobs you don't want to use the newer ones for.
However, in regards to oversharpening, I try to get my knives to a good toothy working edge and leave it at that. I regularly cut materials that have dulled an s30v military in 2 cuts. So for me, I prefer to use a steel that is easier to sharpen in the field with minimal effort. I don't "over sharpen" and have found a mirror polished hair whittling edge is next to useless for a work knife. A couple of passes on a coarse diamond hone and a micro bevel to break the burr off of cheaper steels is all I really need and what I find most effective.
I am still using a Byrd Rescue that Sal sent me (to replace the other one he sent me that I lost overboard
) and that I promised to send back to Spyderco over a year ago so they could look into some stress fractures in the blade. I probably put the hairline cracks in when prying open cans of lobster buoy paint. the serrations are much shallower than when they started and there are chips in the blade I have no intention or desire to expend the effort to sharpen out.
When I can afford to buy a new (to me) knife I usually look for something someone else has used. As long as the edge isn't destroyed I can fix it, and as long as the lock isn't wrecked by idiotic "torture tests" and the price reflects its use, I don't mind it. I like knives with some character.
However, in regards to oversharpening, I try to get my knives to a good toothy working edge and leave it at that. I regularly cut materials that have dulled an s30v military in 2 cuts. So for me, I prefer to use a steel that is easier to sharpen in the field with minimal effort. I don't "over sharpen" and have found a mirror polished hair whittling edge is next to useless for a work knife. A couple of passes on a coarse diamond hone and a micro bevel to break the burr off of cheaper steels is all I really need and what I find most effective.
I am still using a Byrd Rescue that Sal sent me (to replace the other one he sent me that I lost overboard
When I can afford to buy a new (to me) knife I usually look for something someone else has used. As long as the edge isn't destroyed I can fix it, and as long as the lock isn't wrecked by idiotic "torture tests" and the price reflects its use, I don't mind it. I like knives with some character.