Where to send sebenza blade for heat treating

[TTTis]

Thanks for posting SMI, great stuff I really appreciate it! Exactly what I was looking for. I will strongly consider sending one to Bos! Email the best way to contact him? Phone? I see his info on the Buck website.

I usually just send the knife in with the instruction sheet. But if you wanted to chat with Paul Farner (took Bos place) you can call up Buck Knives and then just ask for the Heat Treat Department. He is a real nice guy and will answer any questions you may have.

http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos#

Check that page out and go to "Shipping Instructions" for all the info you need.

By the way your finish looks great!! Mind me asking how you accomplished that?

I don't mind one bit.

Check This Out

 

[TTTis]

Mind me asking how you accomplished that?

Also check out the video below. I pretty much followed how he did it, minus the windex. Instead of leather, I used a sanding block with more sandpaper strapped on top. Taped it down real good so I could have both hands on the blade. The block had a little give which helped contour the paper with the hollow grind.

My edge needs some sharpening. Prior to that, I'll probably hit it a few times with 600 + windex to see how it looks. If I do, I'll post some pics up so you can see the difference. Some of the rubbed blades makers put out are gorgeous. I think it's a good finish for the CF Seb. I still dig the CRK stonewash on full Ti.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZheeI3voYs

 

[Aidansdaddy17]

Wow, blade came out super nice. What did you do to get that finish?

That's gorgeous. Looks professional/custom. Holding up well?

 

[TTTis]

That's gorgeous. Looks professional/custom. Holding up well?

Thanks I appreciate that.

Holding up well, it doesn't hide scratches as well as the CRK stonewash but good nonetheless. You definitely can't tell that I use this thing all day everyday lol.

 

[13aphomet]

Could anyone post a pic of what it looks like if you don't remove the thumbstud? I'm just not comfortable doing it myself.

I'd love to EDC my seb21 at work, but it just doesn't hold it's edge long enough.. and I'm usually too busy at work to break out the Sharpmaker. I would bring my strop, but I also don't have any luck stropping the Seb. Which I think is due to the softness cause I really don't have any problem stroppin other blades.

Anyone else have the stropping problem?

 

[Ernie1980]

Intersecting idea! How much does it cost?

 

[Lone_Wolfe]

the only thing you're going to get roasted for is one awful pun.

 

[338375]

Interesting thread...
I don't have a Sebenza, but am wondering why a knife of this stature, would be HT at a lower level, if it is common for the edge retention to be less than stellar?

Why does CRK not increase the Rockwell ? Not trying to stir up some dust, just curious because these aren't cheap knives, and are obvioulsy extremely popular.

 

[TTTis]

Could anyone post a pic of what it looks like if you don't remove the thumbstud? I'm just not comfortable doing it myself.

If you leave the stud in, the stud will turn a yellowish color. But it will likely just fall out. Meaning it won't be pressed in any more. From what another member told me (and showed in pics), the stud turns yellow. However it also just slips in and out of the blade, you'll likely just need a new one. I always remove mine, quite honestly it is easy. If you do have the tools I'd suggest just doing that. Pin punch, hammer, tape and a block of wood. I put different studs on my sebs so I always just toss the old one. Otherwise I'd send it your way.

If you don't take yours out, you could always just buff the yellow off and loctite it back in the hole.

I'd love to EDC my seb21 at work, but it just doesn't hold it's edge long enough.. and I'm usually too busy at work to break out the Sharpmaker. I would bring my strop, but I also don't have any luck stropping the Seb. Which I think is due to the softness cause I really don't have any problem stroppin other blades.

Anyone else have the stropping problem?

Before I had my sebs hardened, a strop just wouldn't cut it. I could strop for 20 minutes, the edge would still be dull. I would always have to break out a stone to bring the clean apex back. After hardening, a diamond spray impregnated strop keeps the edge popping hairs. Generally a few passes to bring the edge back is all that's needed. Obviously if I let the edge go too much I'll have break out the stone. For the most part I've just been stropping when I get home and the edge is holding up great.

Intersecting idea! How much does it cost?

Right around $20 or so for a single blade.

Interesting thread...
I don't have a Sebenza, but am wondering why a knife of this stature, would be HT at a lower level, if it is common for the edge retention to be less than stellar?

Why does CRK not increase the Rockwell ? Not trying to stir up some dust, just curious because these aren't cheap knives, and are obvioulsy extremely popular.

Who knows, everyone has an opinion on the matter whether positive or negative. Easier to machine or maybe he really believes 58-59 is ideal. All I know is if I couldn't get the blade re-hardened, I wouldn't own any CRK's right now. I love the knives but when my delica lasts longer than a stock seb, an extra $300 is a joke. I bought the knife to use often every single day, I don't collect. The steel is simply too soft and deforms in my use. I'm not cutting metal or damn rocks, the edge shouldn't deform like it did. First time I've ever seen edge deformation like that on any knife I've owned. Hinderer goes 60-61 on his S35 as well as a lot of makers I've spoken with. They don't seem to have a concern with chipping at all.

 

[Sharpski]

So I decided to take the plunge and send one of my sebenza in for a reheat treat. I did leave the thumbstud in just to see what happens and partially bc I need an excuse to have it sent back into CRK for double thumbstud instal. While it's there I may have them give it the spa treatment as well.

Does anyone know if they will re stonewash the blade if it's been reheat treated? Is that even part of the spa treatment?

Anyway I will post an update with photos once I receive it back form the heat treat. I am excited to see it when it comes back, hopefully in one piece haha

 

[Sharpski]

Update here:
The s35vn blade is sent should be done today.. He had to re treat it because after the first run through it was only up to 59.3.. He said usually it takes only one treatment but the metal often times have variants . even between blades from the same batch from crucible. This tells me that he a stand up guy and wants to do the job right for his paying customers. Also I'm glad I sent it in and i would be interested to know what the HRC was before it was re treated..

Also a few updates on Chris Reeve policy. They will not re-stone wash, sharpen, or put new thumb studs on blades that have been re hardened.. For that matter they also do not re finish handles that have been modified.. But they will re finish the scales if they have not been modified even of the blade has been. I just thought this was good info and would save some people a phone call.

Photos to come once the blade arrives!

 

[TTTis]

Update here:
The s35vn blade is sent should be done today.. He had to re treat it because after the first run through it was only up to 59.3.. He said usually it takes only one treatment but the metal often times have variants . even between blades from the same batch from crucible. This tells me that he a stand up guy and wants to do the job right for his paying customers. Also I'm glad I sent it in and i would be interested to know what the HRC was before it was re treated..

Also a few updates on Chris Reeve policy. They will not re-stone wash, sharpen, or put new thumb studs on blades that have been re hardened.. For that matter they also do not re finish handles that have been modified.. But they will re finish the scales if they have not been modified even of the blade has been. I just thought this was good info and would save some people a phone call.

Photos to come once the blade arrives!

Told ya he would treat you right

Good info on CRK's policies towards blade/handle modifications. I would not expect him to work on modified blades or handles. But it is cool that he will reblast unmodified handles even if you have a rehardened blade.

 

[Sharpski]

Here's with another update:

1. Got my blade back from bos today and had a nice little chat with him last night. After the second run of the heat treating and a good old cranking up of the oven he was able to get a HRC of 60.1. Sweeet!

2. He said he had a few other s35vn sebenza blades that he was doing this week and he was curious to see what HRC the stock sebenza's were, so he tested a few before the HT. Answer = average of around 58. Not a huge number so n=1 rule is in effect. Either way good info and you can make your own conclusions...
3. We got to talking (again very nice and friendly guy) and we were both wondering if Chris does his own heat treating or he if sends it out? We were both thinking he sends it out only because he always has a range like 58-59, either that or that is the variability in the heat treating, whoever does it. We also were wondering if he does do them himself, when what ovens does he use and if he oil quenches or uses water. You can use oil according to crucible but they have never done it at Bos, although he may do a test run on some scrap s35vn.
4. Thumb stud: Notice the color on the thumb stud...started out silver but now looks more acid washed copper color. I love it actually, it is very cool. The only thing is that it did become a little loose (not surprised). So I may just secure it with J-B weld or use one of the replacement thumb studs I ordered tonight....another update....maybe?! (Looking for suggestions or opinions)

5. Blade color: looks pretty good, almost like a light acid wash. I may keep it if I keep the original thumb stud because it fits pretty well together. Then again if I use a new thumb stud I may do a hand rub on the blade. Also I was thinking or a light scotch brite finish. Any thoughts?

5. Wondering what the little dimples are around the pivot? That is the sample he had to take to run the HRC of my blade. As you can see he takes averages and had to do mine a few times lol. This however doesn't seem to affect action and he was very careful and thoughtful to try to keep the divots where they would be behind the scales.

6. I will say that before I sent this blade in it the action was very smooth and well broken in. When I put it back together it almost feels like it needs to be broken in again. Smooth just a bit stiff. Nothing else has changed.

Again I had a great experience with Bos HT and would and probably will do it again!

Look for more updates to come....

 

[rycen]

I quite like the blade finish and thumb stud. Very much an all business no-nonsense look.

 

[NeverMore1701]

My 'Zaan's blade is there now, I have high hopes for the finished product!

 

[Sharpski]

I quite like the blade finish and thumb stud. Very much an all business no-nonsense look.

I agree that's that what this one is going to be used for. All business no nonsense, well said! She my worker!

My 'Zaan's blade is there now, I have high hopes for the finished product!

Your not going to be disappointed. I love to see pictures of that too! What did you do for the stud? Are the Ti or stainless? Did you leave them or take them out?

Also another mini update:
Since this is my frankenbenza I decided to do another experiment. I have polished washers to help break in a sebenza but I always wanted to try to polish the blade.....so I took out the dremel, polishing wheel, and my 10 and 1 micron stropping paste and gave it a shot. Hey the warrantee is already voided right? Conclusion: worked out better than I thought it would. It took the re-break-in period right out of this workhorse! Now I only polish the area where the washer and detent ball would contact the blade so one can even tell. Nice mirror polish...maybe I will do it on the blade that way. Only doing the hollow ground part and leaving the rest with that acid wash look. Probably not but that would good I think. It would just show a little too much wear.

 

[NeverMore1701]

I took the stud out, as I'll probably refinish the blade when it gets back anyway. We'll see.

 

[Sharpski]

Told ya he would treat you right

Good info on CRK's policies towards blade/handle modifications. I would not expect him to work on modified blades or handles. But it is cool that he will reblast unmodified handles even if you have a rehardened blade.

Thanks again for your contributions to this thread and your emails to me. Hopefully this will turn out to be a good resource for people considering this in the future. Which was half of my intention of starting this thread, the other half being learning and experimenting myself of course!

 

[TTTis]

4. Thumb stud: Notice the color on the thumb stud...started out silver but now looks more acid washed copper color. I love it actually, it is very cool. The only thing is that it did become a little loose (not surprised). So I may just secure it with J-B weld or use one of the replacement thumb studs I ordered tonight....another update....maybe?! (Looking for suggestions or opinions)

I kinda dig the color of the stud, I'd probably just jb weld it in and call it a day. Of course you may find some other studs you like better like we discussed. The color of the stud turned out how I thought it would. I remember the person that told me about getting the seb blade hardened left his in too. Turned the exact same color.

5. Blade color: looks pretty good, almost like a light acid wash. I may keep it if I keep the original thumb stud because it fits pretty well together. Then again if I use a new thumb stud I may do a hand rub on the blade. Also I was thinking or a light scotch brite finish. Any thoughts?

You got lucky. Both blades I've sent to him have had a few discoloration spots from HT. So refinishing mine was necessary, but yours looks pretty clean. With the full Ti scales, I dig the dark grey look.

But the hand rubbed looks so damn nice, ha. It reminds me of the finish on a Loscha, which is just so sexy.

5. Wondering what the little dimples are around the pivot? That is the sample he had to take to run the HRC of my blade. As you can see he takes averages and had to do mine a few times lol. This however doesn't seem to affect action and he was very careful and thoughtful to try to keep the divots where they would be behind the scales.

The dimples are from the rockwell testing. One blade I sent only had a single dimple near the pivot, seemed he got 60 on the first try. The other one had about five or so, probably just had to make another go at it. Has no effect on the action or smoothness of the knife.

6. I will say that before I sent this blade in it the action was very smooth and well broken in. When I put it back together it almost feels like it needs to be broken in again. Smooth just a bit stiff. Nothing else has changed.

Again I had a great experience with Bos HT and would and probably will do it again!

Look for more updates to come....

The action/lockup, etc isn't changed. However the mirror polishing under the washers (after originally breaking it in) on the blade is cast over after heat treat. So it is basically like getting a brand new seb and having to break it in again.

Thanks again for your contributions to this thread and your emails to me. Hopefully this will turn out to be a good resource for people considering this in the future. Which was half of my intention of starting this thread, the other half being learning and experimenting myself of course!

No problem! I'm just glad you'll experience the full potential of S35, it is a really great blade steel.

 

[NeverMore1701]

Got mine back today, note said it went from 57.8 to 60.1. Played with a few different finishes, settled on one I really like, and will send it out to Richard J. next week for one of his awesome convex edges. Can't wait to see how it'll be afterward!