Which Big Knife?

Ron :

BOTH KNIVES ARE CONSIDERED FULLY SHARPENED!

By Sog, yes that would be obvious, this could hold to any standard that you wished to use and thus isn't overly meaningful. Being more specific on the SOG level of sharpness, since you want to use a semantic arguement of blunt being different than dull, in your own words :

Not all edges, though, are designed to "push" through paper. They should "slice" paper (cutting at an angle, slicing through the cut).

This is the myth, not specifically just one aspect. The myth in its basic form is that blunt edges are preferred on heavy use knives because if you made them any sharper it would be too weak, the opposite is true actually in regards to edge polish and alignment [sharpness] . There is some truth to this argument (as to all myths) because sloppy use of terms has given to blunt being used to describe obtuse angles. Of course you lose cutting ability and gain durablity with a more obtuse edge angles, but even very obtuse angles can push cut paper if they are sharpened well, and easily smoothly shave hair. And, the angles necessary for hard use knives of quality steel are far more acute than what SOG uses, and in fact so are axes (more detail below).

In reality, the above SOG standard, is about half of the top production knives in the SOG price range, and less than 1/4 of the very high end blades, which to be fair are indeed rare, so only the half is really a sensible marker. To put the above quote in context, the large Busse blades (of similar size to SOG referenced in the above) have been shown in live demonstrations, to have the level of sharpness as described by Ron after the Busse blades have cut through thousands of pieces of thick hemp rope. In fact the Busses were still shaving sharp for quite some time (see old posts for details). Thus a heavily used Busse can be expected to tbe sharper than a NIB SOG. Again, this is going from *Ron's* description of the expected performance of the SOG blades and the public demostration of the Busses (which I and many others have verified).


For science has given centuries of mankind a very narrow grind on a shaving razor and a very blunt grind on an ax.

This is another myth [axes are supposed to be blunt - they are not]. It is common now mainly because of lack of axe use and people thinking hardware store axes are actually properly shaped and honed. For specifics on the profiles of wood working axes and how sharp they are expected to be, see "The Ax Book: The Lore and Science of the Woodcutter ", and Lee's book on sharpening (there are lots of others). Lee is more specific and covers a few types depending on wood. Note that the angles described for the full size felling axes are more acute than the large SOG knives (even the small folders actually), and the sharpness is again much greater as the edges are stropped using leather and a buffing compound. Lee recommends CrO, which will give a level of sharpness beyond an 8000 grit waterstone. You could also look at the Granfors Bruks axes, which have similar acute bevels, and again very high levels of sharpness, actually amoung the highest I have seen including knives, production of custom. Or you could simply look at a large knife which is guaranteed to have a much higher level of sharpness such as a Busse, or if you really want to see just how far you can go, check out a large blade from a custom maker known to have very high expectations of sharpness such as R. J. Martin.

This sharpness issue by the way, isn't what I would consider a serious failing of the SOG knives, NIB sharpness is pretty much the last thing I would look for in a knife. They do have other problems though which are significant, and are described in the above.

-Cliff
 
JUst go out and get a Cold Steel Bushman. It'll do fine and you can sharpen it on a rock. Low tech is the way to go.

If you need something for chopping buy a 30 dollar hatchet and chop stuff.

Last time I needed to destroy a cinder-block was.............. ??
 
To change the subject, I will just mention how fed up I have become lately with both retailers and manufacturers who advertise knives that aren't yet available.

One of the knives I was considering is the Ontario RTAK. Forgive me if I am wrong, but from what I can tell these knives aren't on the market yet. Ontario advertises them as a new product on their website, but after spot checking several of their own official dealers I could not find a retailer which has them.

These people waste a customer's time in trying to buy a knife which is not yet for sale, and probably their own in answering all of the distributors, etc. who have to be told why the knives aren't being shipped.

As far as I can tell, the Ontario RTAK is not available yet, and nothing made by Marble's has been available for the past two months!

If you aren't selling the knives - don't advertise them!
 
Cliff,

The “Lore” being disseminated here in this topic is that you speak as if all truth fits into your definitions. This is not the case. Though at times the absolute extreme is correct, everything short of it is not wrong. Cliff, by doing this, you do the knife community a big disservice by “painting with such a broad brush.”

In all your fancy words, you danced around the edge “myth” issue, so let me ask you pointedly. Isn’t the edge on most every person’s shaving razor around the world about 10 degrees? Isn’t the wood chopping ax that most every person around the world uses ground to about 30 degrees (maybe more...or less)? Remember here, Cliff, I’m not talking about a few fanatics; I’m talking about 99 percent of the world. I’ll answer both questions for you. “Yes” and “Yes.” If you want to personally be different than these norms, fine. If you want to chart into new research into these areas, fine. Cliff, just don’t do so by calling the world “wrong.” There’s more than one way to get things done.

With regards to SOG knives being defined as sharp by “SOG,” I think you forgot about the millions of existing SOG customers who really do think our knives are really damn sharp. Thank goodness they don’t need to check first with you first for “certification.”

Cliff, you fill your posts and reviews with unequal comparisons; how can you claim to be part of the scientific community? There is no way you can compare a $300-400 knife (mostly handmade) to our $150 Tigershark (made to production standards) and in anyway consider it an equal playing field. I don’t see Car & Driver doing comparison tests between a Porsche 911 Turbo and basic Chevy Camaro. They can certainly review them both individually, but not comparatively together. To do so would be to end their credibility in the role of a reviewer.
 
Trust me Ron...you're wasting your time arguing with Cliff ;)

As a side note, the Northwest Ranger is one of the finest knives I own. Sharp enough to shave the hairs off of a knat's ass, comfortable in the hand, and just an overall great piece and performer. My next test is to freeze it in liquid nitrogen, chuck it up in the vice and hit the side of it with a 9 pound hammer. If it doesn't withstand at least 5 full swing blows then I'm going to write up a bad review and post it on Bladeforums. Ron, just for the sake of mad science do you think I should hit it towards the spine or more towards the edge? :D
 
Hey Jeff,

You mean you didn't get one of our "not fully sharpened knives"?

You're right that arguing with Cliff is pointless. But I'm not "arguing with Cliff." I'm defending SOG against slanderous comments.

Join the "Ban Cliff" fan club!
 
No, actually I think Cliff must have emailed Matthew and requested I get a knife that was already sharpened. Thanks Cliff! Nothing I hate worse than all those POS dull SOG knives. :D
 
Hey Ron...

I've probably sheathed 3 or 4 dozen SOGS,, mostly all new,, a few beat up,but the majority were as new,,and I can't remember one that wasn't as sharp as any other knife I've ever seen..

As far as Cliff's note above...

cliff..

You wouldn't have a Cliff notes version of what you said would you..Had a real hard time following along...

ttyle

Eric...
 
I believe you will not do better than a BK9 Combat Bowie. I just rec'd one, and it is the best bang for the buck of any and all big knives. The thing is awesome. I've had knives that cost me 2-5 times as much, and they weren't as good. I've owned a RTAK, and prefer this BK9.

If you don't like the handles, buy a set of Bill Seigel's after market handle scales. Or even better yet, buy some canvas Micarta scales and make your own. It's easy.
 
As far as reviews go, I am partial to the write ups that Mr Randall does. While I'm not skinning alligators in the jungles of S. America, I find your "tests" very real world. I go hiuking, or work in the yard and find the need to cut stuff and occasionally shape wood. That is what knives are for.

What does one really want out of a knife?

1. Cut things.

2. Be durable.

3. Have it with you when needed.


Price, materials, maker, logo, the cool website the company has, etc. are all meaningless if these 3 factors are not met.

$$$ does not always equal quality

To quote Chris Steven from KBHR: It's not WHAT you fling, but the fling itself that matters.
 
Hello Volvi,

Thanks for the advice on the BK9. Since you just recieved one, I am assuming that the BK9 can actually be bought.

Lately I have been having problems due to knives which are advertised on the internet, but are not yet being sold. I just found out from Marbles that a Marbles Ideal I ordered a month ago won't be available until mid to late August. However, you won't find that information in the Ideal advertisement on the Marbles website.
 
I wholeheartedly endorse the Becker BK9. In my opinion it's the best of the whole Becker line except for the Patrol Machete, which, of course is a completely different design. In short, you'll be very happy the Becker.
 
Ron :

Isn t the edge on most every person s shaving razor around the world about 10 degrees? Isn t the wood chopping ax that most every person around the world uses ground to about 30 degrees

A straight razor is about 10 degrees included yes, less usually, but that is the ballpark. A large felling axe will be about 15 - 20 degrees *included angle* for green wood, and about 20 to 25 degrees included for dry wood. A swamper axe will be thicker as it is made to handle roots and such, up to 25-35 included. For comparison, tactical knives are generally 22+ degrees per side, 44+ degrees included far in excess of axes. The more acute factory knives are 15 degrees per side, 30 degrees included, still not at axe level.

Yes, there are "axes" which have thicker bits, but these are not wood cutting axes, they are designed for sod chopping and such and are more correctly described being similar to mattocks, grubbers, splitting mauls or bone cleavers. Using them to reference axe geometry would be like using the edge on a cleaver as a reference for the design of a chef's knife. The wood cutting axes will also be very sharp, far sharper than the above standard you describe for SOG.

-Cliff
 
I am going to purchase one of Ontario's RTAK knives, I already have the Cold Steel Trailmaster and a Gerber bowie. I used the Gerber quite a lot to clear some land of small trees. It did quite a good job. I haven't used the Trailmaster much. The RTAK looks to be a good using blade for the price.
 
Hello Mr. Watson,

From what I can tell the Ontario RTAK is not yet available - at least it wasn't two or three days ago when I was checking internet dealers.
 
I finally decided on which knife to buy, and ordered a BK9. This was due to good reviews of it, and economic considerations. I have no doubt that the best of the knives I was originally considering is the Battle Rat, but I'll leave that aquisition to better times. At any rate, the BK9 sounds like a good knife, if not the best available. Right now I need to stick to knives that don't put too big of a dent in my bank account.
 
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