Which Fallkniven fixed to buy?

[freq18hz]

All,

I've been looking for a survival knife to take with me backpacking. I currently have an Izula in my pack, but am considering something bigger for fire making. I'm pretty much settled on a fallkniven. The question is, which one?

I like the F1, but it looks perhaps too small (not that much longer) than the Izula, and the convex grind looks hard to sharpen?
I've been checking out the F1, A1, S1, etc. No one in my area carries these, so I am unable to try them out first.

I'm looking to keep the weight as low as possible, but be able to start a fire in an emergency situation without expending an insane amount of energy.
Also possibly considering a RAT-4/ESEE-4.

-Freq

 

[Dag-nabit]

The S1 would slot in nicely as the "compromise" knife.

F1 4" blade, 4.5mm thick, 6.0 oz.
S1 5" blade, 5mm thick, 6.7 oz.
A1 6" blade, 6mm thick, 12.0 oz.

The A1 is probably a bit big/heavy for your needs.

Kevin

 

[freq18hz]

What about the grind on the S1? The F1 supposedly is a full convex grind, but the S1 looks more like a hollow grind? Any ideas? Also it looks like the spine tapers, doesn't that make it less strong than the F1?


-Freq

 

[Dag-nabit]

Had to bug out for a few minutes before I could finish my post....


Freq,

You have again choosen top notch knives, all very capable, and each able to get the job done.


The F1 is cabable of batoning, it is plenty stout enough to handle the task. The shorter blade does mean you need to take smaller "bites" off the log. I have batoned with my F1 and my RC4 with great success

The S1 isn't a whole lot longer at just over 6", but that gives a surprising amount of extra tip sticking out the other side of the log to contact with your baton. The S1 is a bit thicker which will assist in splitting the log.

The A1, IMO, is too large for your intended purpose, and adds weight you don't need. Suffice it to say it is a great knife and works well.

Unless your intended requirement has changed since you last posted, here are a few points I can think of for you to consider in making your decision.

- The F1 or RC4 would do the job for you as far as size goes. If you think the F1 is too small, then you also need to look to the larger RC5 or similar in the RAT line up.
- The S1 is a nice step up, a bit better size for batoning, but adds a half pound of weight to your pack.
- If you are thinking of using a firesteel you will need to strip some coating off the RAT knives, at least a bit along the spine for a striking area.
- For your purpose, leaving the knife in your pack for extended periods, stainless steel may be a benefit.

I don't have a pic of batoning with the F1, but here is the RC4 in action, as you can see it is very capable.

I use a Fallkniven A2 around the campfire, but I don't carry it, it is a "stationary" camp knife for us. But it gives you an idea of the capability of the S1.

Kevin

 

[hiwa]

Listen to the Dag !! He's up on the Fallkniven stuff

I have the S1 and A1 , and I agree , the S1 is the easier to tote around knife. The A1 is identical , just scaled up in size.

You won't be dissapointed with the S1. A good investment in a knife. ( convex ground , it is. )

 

[Dag-nabit]

What about the grind on the S1? The F1 supposedly is a full convex grind, but the S1 looks more like a hollow grind? Any ideas? Also it looks like the spine tapers, doesn't that make it less strong than the F1?


-Freq

All Fallknivens are convex ground to a certain degree. The S1 A1 etc. have a little less convex to them, and can appear to be flat ground at a quick glance. But if you lay them on a flat surface you will notice the convex. Most Fallknivens come from the factory with a micro bevel grind on the edge. You can choose to retain the micro bevel, or re-profile it to a convex. (note that freehand sharpening will result in some level of convex regardless of what you use to sharpen. It is impossible to maintain a perfect steady angle when freehanding)

The S1 does have a clip point with a false grind (taper), but believe me it is plenty stout. The F1 tapers toward the tip as well, it is just a more subtle grind and less noticable.

When batoning you want to keep the handle fairly close to one edge of the log and keep adequate blade sticking out the other side so you don't have to strike too close to the tip. The length of blade determines whether you can take a 1", 2", or 3" wide bite off the log.

Kevin

 

[AF]

Has anyone who has batoned with a Fallkniven every had a problem with the rubber handle ramming into the wood and getting torn up? I think I'd rather have a micarta handle or a guard if I were batoning.

 

[Tostig]

You cannot go wrong with a S1 , there is a reason it was approved for use by some of our armed forces.

I think it is the ideal size for near any use ( BOB , hiking , camping , yard , "truck knife ").

Tostig

 

[wildmike]

If you get the F1 get the leather sheath model. The blade can rattle around in the kydex and dulls the edge.

The F1 surprisingly provides a better grip than the RC4 (I have both). The handle on the F1 is also a little longer.

Personaly if I were to spend the money on one it would be the S1. I picked up my F1 in a trade just to try out the Fallknivens. The F1 doesn't take any better of an edge than my RC4 (which I've convexed) and doesn't hold the edge as well. It is however very easy to touch up with the Fallkniven DC4 stone and a strop.

The F1 is a fairly good compact and capable small blade. It easily handles batonning and performs well at most any task I've thrown at it. So if you are set on purchasing one you can do so with confidence. From my tastes the S1 would be a better knife for survival use but I lean toward 5+ inch blades.

 

[Dag-nabit]

Has anyone who has batoned with a Fallkniven every had a problem with the rubber handle ramming into the wood and getting torn up? I think I'd rather have a micarta handle or a guard if I were batoning.

I haven't had that happen. It is possible it could I suppose.

As with any handle material you have to weigh the pros and cons. The rubberized Thermorun handle on the S1 may be less durable with respect to hard impact or cuts than Micarta or G10, but it is grippy when wet and absorbs some of the impact when batoning.

It is good in the winter (although Freq is from California, not sure that is relevant unless he is hiking the high country)

I use both handle materials on various knives, and have had no problems to date on any of them.

Kevin

 

[freq18hz]

This is great info. Kevin as you know I already have the Izula in my pack. Im torn between an RC4, RC5, and the F1, S1. Very tough decision.

I'll be honest, I suck at sharpening, so the FFG of the ESEE's are attractive. I don't even know what a microbevel is.

Thanks for the pics and info! You guys are awesome!


-Freq

 

[dangreco]

Try one of the smaller Northern Lights, they look simply fantastic. I'm trying to decide right now between the Thor or a BRKT 9.5 custom bowie.

Also, convex edges are easy to sharpen.

 

[Dag-nabit]

This is great info. Kevin as you know I already have the Izula in my pack. Im torn between an RC4, RC5, and the F1, S1. Very tough decision.

I'll be honest, I suck at sharpening, so the FFG of the ESEE's are attractive. I don't even know what a microbevel is.

Thanks for the pics and info! You guys are awesome!


-Freq

A micro bevel is the small bevel where the blade narrows down (i.e. changes angle) to form the actual cutting edge.

Fallknivens are often convexed except forthe last mm or so which is angle ground, creating the "micro bevel". Not sure if the photos below will help to clarify it for you or not.

I sucked at sharpening too, until I started convexing. Everyone is different, but I find sharpening a convex with the "mousepad and sandpaper" method to be about the easiest I've tried, and I get great results after a fairly short time of practice. NOTE: that it can take a long time to initially establish the convex edge, but after that it is easy to maintain.

Whichever knife you choose it is going to serve you well. You have researched excellent choices. :thumbup:

Strictly from a personal point of view, take it for what it is worth, if I was going to stuff a knife in my backpack and not use it for months (years?, never?) as you have suggested, I would lean toward stainless steel. (Fallkniven or otherwise). Just a bit of insurance against a badly corroded blade if it happens to get damp and goes un-noticed. If it goes in the bag with a good edge, it would be nice if it comes out of the bag with a good edge if/when you need it, and not require re-establishing an edge. In the dark...... In the rain...... the coyotes circling........

Remember it is stain less, it can still corrode/rust, but much less likely than carbon steel.



This blade is micro beveled. You can see the bevel, and notice the light reflecting off the flat grind surfaces of the edge.

[/IMG]

The blade has now been convexed, you can no longer see the bevel, and the light no longer reflects becuase the flat grinds are removed.

Kevin.

PS. I have to come clean. I profile/sharpen most of my blades with a belt sander now. After learning the mousepad method I got impatient when re-profiling new blades. If you go convex, learn the mousepad method first, you need it in the field (note: you can substitute the top of your thigh for the mousepad, and sandpaper is light to carry. But then, so is a small diamond ceramic stone).

If someday you choose to try a belt sander BE AWARE you will wreck a few blades learning the technique on a belt sander, so move up to it, if and when you feel comfortable, and practice on some junker blades.

The RC4 in the post above was the first knife I convexed on a belt sander after practicing on junk knives for a few days first)

 

[Todd A]

Has anyone who has batoned with a Fallkniven every had a problem with the rubber handle ramming into the wood and getting torn up?

No. My F1...

I have also cross grained through a few standing saplings...

 

[nodh]

I myself use both the F1 and the H1 (the hunting knife) and they are both great knives.
The F1 is almost "cute" and does not attract negative attention if you have it on your belt.
The H1 is even thicker than the F1 but lacks a guard. It is something of a modern sami knife.

If you are looking for a "survival" knife I would definately choose the F1. It is light enough to be carried even around your neck and by doing so you will always have the knife when you need it. A bigger knife will eventually end up in your backpack.

The F1 was developed as a pure "survival" knife to be carried in a pocket on the flightsuit of Sw AF pilots. My guess is that the F stands for "Flygvapnet" or Air Force in swedish. The S1 is forest knife or "skogskniv". and more of a camp knife like the A1.

The F1 came first, then the A1 followed by S1 and H1.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

 

[freq18hz]

Kevin thanks yet again for the awesome info!


Yeah the tough part is, I bought this Izula and love it. The F1 really isn't much more blade real-estate than the Izula. But the F1 looks like a much better all around knife, albeit much heavier. The S1 looks to be a better size compromise, but it looks bulkier and not as durable.

Another issue is that in California, the F1 (and the izula too actually) are considered concealed weapons if not displayed. Currently I have the Izula in my pack, and I'm not too worried about someone finding it. But the F1 is a lot more noticeable.

Does anyone know how much weight difference and bulk difference there is between the leather and the zytel sheaths?


Decisions decisions...

-Freq

 

[A.L.]

Has anyone who has batoned with a Fallkniven every had a problem with the rubber handle ramming into the wood and getting torn up? I think I'd rather have a micarta handle or a guard if I were batoning.

Don't take this to yourself, but you haven't happened to watch that vid with stupid kid who breaks his fäll by batoning it and hitting it to rocks, and then saying it's a lousy knife?

 

[wildmike]

The leather sheath holds the knife more securely. The zytel allows the blade to wiggle around and dulls the edge a little (easy to touch upo though)

My reccomendation is the leather sheath.

 

[TLR]

Has anyone who has batoned with a Fallkniven every had a problem with the rubber handle ramming into the wood and getting torn up? I think I'd rather have a micarta handle or a guard if I were batoning.

Yes and no. Yes I have had it wedged up against the wood. It marked/marred it up a little but no it didn't "tear it up." With that said if it were going to be used REGULARLY for batoning I'd rather have the micarta.

To give you a little more perspective I have owned and used an F1 as my primary backpacking / woods knife for 8 years. I just recently bought an ESEE 4 to see if it would unthrone my F1. It didn't. Great knife but I have decent size hands and the handle on my F1 is more comfortable for me than the ESEE 4. Again great knife that I'd be fine getting stuck in the woods with just prefer the F1.

Now to throw in a little more confusion I have on order a Swamprat Ratmandu which I'm going to pit against my F1. Micarta handles, little longer blade and SR101 steel. It may just do it. You might want to jump over to the Swamp Rat forum and take a look. You can't get these all the time and as of this post the HRLM and Ratmandu are still available for pre-order. Just my .02.

 

[ElectrikHellfire]

Since you already pack in an Izula, I'd recommend the A1. If it's batonning you want to do you will appreciate the extra blade to strike on and the extra heft will help with chopping should you decide to do so. You really can't go wrong with any Fallkniven IMO. I really like all of them.