Which is more forgiving during HT 1095 or 01??

Yes the tip will get cold in a "few" seconds. That is why you need to be prepared. It only takes a second or two to get it into the quench oil. Also if you remove on a rising heat the residual will hold it for more than enough time to quench it. So you essentially have 200f to get it into the quench medium. If you are looking for god activity in the Hamon then 1095 is the ticket if you are not then 1084 or even 1080 will be easier. W2 is even better for hamon activity and has a very similar TTT diagram as 1095.
 
I just mic'd a bar of 1084 out at .137". I've been buying this 1/8" stock from Kelly for quite some time, but these bars are a little old. I'd bet there's not more than .005" scale on either side. Kelly is a good guy to deal with, he's got good prices and free shipping if you order enough steel.

No offense to anyone else selling steel, but there's nothing wrong with his. He doesn't sell any 1084 as large as Aldo does, so I don't see what the point of even saying that was. If you're needing 1/8" stock, you'd probably be happier using .120" than .245" Same thing with 3/16". If you have to remove a little scale, it's not really any worse than having to remove 1/16" of steel.
 
By the way I do agree that 1080 or 1084 is the easiest of all. It barely has to be above non magnetic and you have more time in the quench. I just had to mention that about 1095 because until I read and learned I had my quench oil right under the oven door and was a maniac from the time I opened the door till it hit the quench. You need a plan and smooth moves with fast oil but, it is far from impossible.
 
If I were to concentrate my efforts on 1095 and pursue it with an intent to maximize martensite formation, I believe that once I felt I had my methods down I would want to send a test sample off for metallographic analysis to know that my work wasn't riddled with pearlite. Those micrographs would be a nice selling point.
 
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