Which is the stronger stop pin?

[THG]

You sure you didnt just grip the handle tighter and push in the lockbar a bit more? If not than thats interesting. I honestly dont have a preferance either way because the stop pin is probably one of the last things to break under stress. The lockbar cutout area and pivot would likely fail first.

Yes, I'm absolutely sure. The reason that the lock bar is moving further under pressure is because the extra force against the edge (going toward the spine) is creating more of a "gap" between the tang and the lock bar, so the lock bar gets some more space to move in further.

To use an analogy, say you bend your hand backward as far as you can (with only that hand; no supplement, no other hand pushing.) If you push further with your other hand, you can get it to move a little bit more in that direction. That's what this seems to be like.

No it doesn't.
I've had both styles of pin/stop do the exact same thing.
It will depend on tang ramp angle and how hard the lock kicks over when opened.
It will move more if you open it lightly and then use it than if it's slammed open hard.
Neither style of pin/stop is immune to what you experienced though.

Well interestingly enough, this Leek locks up in the same position whether it is opened manually, with the AO, or with the AO + a hard flick. It is only force that causes the lock bar to push in further.

You may be right that it isn't the pin that's causing this. My original thought was that since the studs are not integrated into the handle, they are less "stable" than a pin that isn't going to be moving at all.

I'm just not sure. The only thing I can say is that I've never experienced lock motion to this degree with stop pins.

 

[tiguy7]

Not to make too fine a point regarding the Camillus/Darrel Ralph CUDA (MADD) MAXX stop pin, but I don't think that it was ever intended to be thumb stud. It's in the wrong spot, and there is no clearance to get your thumb behind it. The pin makes an excellent blade stop in both directions.