Recommendation? Which lubricant does it all?

Bill DeShivs said:
Frog Lube is basically coconut oil.
It can't penetrate metal-no lubricant can.
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As I said in my post, "When applied to a warmed-up blade, 'Frog Lube' claims to penetrate the metal.
I really don't know how it could... " That claim doesn't make sense to me, but... I went on to say; "but I do know the results I see on my weapons."

I can't argue with those results. I was in a major tournament in Bangkok in the beginning of June. I didn't clean my blades after the tournament, and they are still rust free today, 6 weeks later, in Thailand's Rainy Season when the air is wet enough to drink. I sustained a knee injury which has prevented me from playing after the tournament, so my weapons have just sat around. But they aren't collecting rust. Even where the blades are dinged up from metal-to-metal contact.
Can you explain why? I can't. This didn't happen when I was using Sentry Solution's Marine Tuf-glide. It's only since I started using 'Frog Lube.'


Stitchawl
 
Ha, I just saw that Geissele thing. Guess he sucks to work for, and what's funny is that you do hear him babbling a lot about "family". Still makes the best triggers and mounts in the business, nor would any of that internal management stuff stop me from buying their products.
 
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Bill DeShivs said:
Stitchawl-
I didn't say Frog Lube was bad, did I?
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No, nor did I suggest that you did.
I did, however, ask if you could explain why the steel that gets exposed AFTER application of the Frog Lube somehow manages to remain free from rust. I can't explain it. This didn't happen when I was using Sentry Solution's 'Marine Tuf-glide.' The areas that got nicked up in combat would be forming rust within days of combat. After a day of fencing, these blades really get bashed about. No so with 'Frog Lube.' It really is as if the stuff penetrated the steel... although we know that can't happen. And it's not as if the lube is dripping down the blade, either. It's applied to a warm blade, allowed to sit for a while, then all excess is wiped off. The blade feels dry to the touch.


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
No, nor did I suggest that you did.
I did, however, ask if you could explain why the steel that gets exposed AFTER application of the Frog Lube somehow manages to remain free from rust. I can't explain it. This didn't happen when I was using Sentry Solution's 'Marine Tuf-glide.' The areas that got nicked up in combat would be forming rust within days of combat. After a day of fencing, these blades really get bashed about. No so with 'Frog Lube.' It really is as if the stuff penetrated the steel... although we know that can't happen. And it's not as if the lube is dripping down the blade, either. It's applied to a warm blade, allowed to sit for a while, then all excess is wiped off. The blade feels dry to the touch.


Stitchawl
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wonder if you used Fluid Film if the same results would be had.

in any case, froglube is just coconut oil with a few additives.

tuff glide is a solid/dry lube. when it dries it can crack off. so when you fence its cracking off the dry lube. hence the issue you found
 
I use my Wilson Combat Ultima-lube II (Universal). It works great and I have enough to last me a long, long time.
 
stitchawl said:
No, nor did I suggest that you did.
I did, however, ask if you could explain why the steel that gets exposed AFTER application of the Frog Lube somehow manages to remain free from rust. I can't explain it. This didn't happen when I was using Sentry Solution's 'Marine Tuf-glide.' The areas that got nicked up in combat would be forming rust within days of combat. After a day of fencing, these blades really get bashed about. No so with 'Frog Lube.' It really is as if the stuff penetrated the steel... although we know that can't happen. And it's not as if the lube is dripping down the blade, either. It's applied to a warm blade, allowed to sit for a while, then all excess is wiped off. The blade feels dry to the touch.


Stitchawl
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Hi,
Maybe its because coconut oil is more like coconut grease (solid),
so when its applied to blade,
it fills and sticks to the surface scratches/pores,
and later after metal/metal contact
some of this excess grease can ooze/flow from the surroundings
to block the air/rain
 
Liquid Freakiness from Vulture Equipment Works. Non-toxic, odorless, temp range from -65 to over 500 deg farenheight. full auto rated, designed for use with silencers. I put some on my new FN509 and couldn't believe the difference

19905199_1359884780728166_2547878965122926350_n.jpg
 
rdnzl said:
I use G96. A gun cleaner/lube product. I use it on anything that moves and needs lubrication. Guns, knives, squeaky chairs, etc.
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I'm glad you brought up G-96 products. Quite a long time ago I used some of their products on my hunting firearms and had good luck with G-96 and Birchwood Casey products both.

Those G-96 products have been around for a long time. I haven't used any of their stuff in some time but I was always satisfied with them when I did use them.
 
bucketstove said:
Hi,
Maybe its because coconut oil is more like coconut grease (solid),
so when its applied to blade,
it fills and sticks to the surface scratches/pores,
and later after metal/metal contact
some of this excess grease can ooze/flow from the surroundings
to block the air/rain
Click to expand...


Hmmm.... good possibility. Considering that only a minuscule layer would be needed to protect the metal, it is quite possible that there is a flow from surrounding protected areas. Once FrogLube is applied and wiped down, I can't feel it, as I do other protectants, but it's certainly there doing it's job. And probably more than enough to allow some bleed-over to adjacent areas.


Stitchawl
 
Marvel mystery oil is my go to for everything. It's the only solution on the planet that smells better than hoppes #9. I'd be willing to bet it penetrates better than frog lube.
My limited experience with frog lube showed that it gels thickly and badly in cold temps. I don't ever want it on my knives or firearms for that reason. I often have to deal with cold.
 
How about this.
71Hr0RHNtVL._SY355_.jpg

It is great for penetration, very slick and doesn't smell bad. There is also a silicone version for those who prefer that type of lube. Based on the thread title this may be the lube which does it all.
 
I use a product called Gunzilla (CLP) it is a plant based gun cleaner that smells like almonds and works great, I have been using it for 5-6 years on all my guns and knives wouldn't change a thing as it is safe and work great. Im in Canada but i have heard the US army uses the stuff in the Mideast to cut down on sand and dust in these guns. It does seem to almost repel dust. Also food safe :)
 
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