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Which of your knives can you get the sharpest?

Well I still can't quite get the knack of using the Sharpmaker properly. Given that limitation the knife I can get the sharpest is my trusty SAK. The softer steel and thinner blade make it much easier for a beginner like me to get it good and sharp.
 
Pat Cawford One Hand Folder, old O1 Bud Nealy Aikuchi and an old Queen Serpentine Jack with high carbon steel blades.
 
I think the knife I got the sharpest was my Queen Serpentine Jack with D2 blade. I even suprised myself with how sharp I got it.
 
I can remember a time before I came to understand the "burr" (or "wire edge") that can be mistaken by the inexperienced as a really sharp edge. So it makes me wonder what percentage of people with "scary sharp" knives are actually catching their skin with a burr, not an actual sharp edge.

I guess I'm just a hopeless cynic. :cool:

-Jeffrey
 
My sharpest knife is my Benchmade 805 TSEK (good old 440C stainless steel)...In-fact, it's so sharp, I'm almost afraid of it.:D.
 
My Endura is scary sharp, but it's difficult to get back that way after a hard use. The easiest to get shaving sharp is my cheap Mora Sweden.
 
My Military might be my sharpest. It just gets scary, I have other knives that are probably right on par with it but it just seems like its the sharpest.
 
I've been able to get all of my regularly used knives hair splitting sharp using the Spyderco Sharpmaker ultra fine rods followed by stropping on flat leather loaded with chromium oxide. Really, the ultra fine rods alone have gotten knives hair splitting, but, just like shaving or cutting newsprint, there's different levels of how easy it is to make the hair split. Stropping takes it to the next level.

It seems to take less work to get to that level with knives made from 1095 as well as my Opinel which I believe has less carbon than 1095. With stainless blades, I've found the easiest ones to get easy hair splitting are a couple of old Buck 110s in 440C that I thinned down to about 10 degrees per side.

If I had to pick 1, it would be the Opinel, which has a thin edge to begin with. I've learned the hard way not to feel the edge to gauge sharpness on the Opinel. :eek:
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
I find that the easiest sharpest is my Opinel- by far.

My Opi #7 may need to be sharpened more often... but is the sharpest knife I have. My BRKT Highland is a very very close second. The only reason I think the Opinel gets a little sharper is because of the thinner edge geometry. Both can shave the hair off a Gnat:cool:
 
I think sharpness is also separate from cutting ability. One can put a razor's edge on a logging axe, but it wont easilly cut things due to the geometry behind that edge. Some of the knives listed here are very thin stock knives and may seem much sharper since they move through materials easier, but that might be a function of blade and bevel geometry moreso than edge sharpness.
 
Opinel, MCusta, Fallkniven U-2

Opinel sharpest but doesn't last long.

MCusta for probably the actual SHARPEST with some blade life.

U-2 for nearly the MCusta level (with some time involved) but LASTS forever.

:)
 
Lucky Bob said:
What's a zero bevel? the fact that there's only one flat between the cutting edge and the flat?
Right. The only grind on the knife is the primary one you can see in the pic. It goes right down to the edge with no secondary bevel grind like you would find on most knives. Here's a link I found helpful when trying to figure out what this edge was called. http://www.balisongcollector.com/grinds.htmlHope that's helpful.
 
Once you've stropped a blade to that "hair-splitting sharp" level, is that edge not more fragile than one that has not been brought to that kind of narrowness? Just wondering.

-Jeffrey
 
Without a doubt, my Bark River Highland. I'm with Buzzbait, that convex edge is great.

My Buck Mayo also gets there, close to the Highland.
 
just wondering what the watch is in PHYSICS photograph. i like the look of it a lot and i am looking for a new watch, any help would be apreciated:thumbup:
 
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