Which One of these is best for Hunting?

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Top design, with the recurve, and convex edge. I like recurves on hunting blades, good for rounding the joints on the legs! I made a nice recurve for my taxidermist, he really liked the design.
 
I'd take the top one any day of the week with thinner bar stock, the saber grind, and size. That is essentially what I personally use and makes a good general woods knife as well.
 
You're definitely on the right track, OP.

Incidentally, I also see this thread as a way of separating the real kinfe experts from the mere poseurs. Anyone who doesn't see the vast superiority of the second (OP's) design doesn't know their kinfes.
 
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Sonoran Belt Knife/Caper on top, Sonoran Hunter next and Sonoran Skinner on bottom. Designed with the help of a world travelling hunter/writer and torture tested at a game ranch where numerous animals were processed daily from first of Oct through the end of Mar. At the end of Mar they asked if they could keep the test set and sent me their own money (not the outfits but personal money), for more. If you're looking for an all rounder look hard at the hunter design. A2 at 62 RC. Do not use 1/4 stock for this project. These are ground so thin they are sharp before I grind the secondary bevel.

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Now these are good patterns for a hunter.. Or a 3 1/2” Loveless style drop point or a Western Trailing Point 36 and use 5/32” or 3/32” thick stock
 
Sonoran Belt Knife/Caper on top, Sonoran Hunter next and Sonoran Skinner on bottom. Designed with the help of a world travelling hunter/writer and torture tested at a game ranch where numerous animals were processed daily from first of Oct through the end of Mar. At the end of Mar they asked if they could keep the test set and sent me their own money (not the outfits but personal money), for more. If you're looking for an all rounder look hard at the hunter design. A2 at 62 RC. Do not use 1/4 stock for this project. These are ground so thin they are sharp before I grind the secondary bevel.

PDJ87EL.jpg

Once I saw these blades, I didn't have to look back to see that they were Dave Ferry's. He has a selection of designs and materials on his website that just can't be beat... His knives are great; his leather is great; his prices are reasonable.
Don

Redsquid...you lose, sir. That 1/4" of steel is just twice as thick as is necessary for the job...
 
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7ls7I7G.jpg


Sonoran Belt Knife/Caper on top, Sonoran Hunter next and Sonoran Skinner on bottom. Designed with the help of a world travelling hunter/writer and torture tested at a game ranch where numerous animals were processed daily from first of Oct through the end of Mar. At the end of Mar they asked if they could keep the test set and sent me their own money (not the outfits but personal money), for more. If you're looking for an all rounder look hard at the hunter design. A2 at 62 RC. Do not use 1/4 stock for this project. These are ground so thin they are sharp before I grind the secondary bevel.

PDJ87EL.jpg
Now THOSE are hunting knives!
Looking more and more like my own Sonoran Belt knife needs a companion or two in my collection.
 
What ways are those? Please explain rather than a three word answer if you are such an expert.
 
It's a Dodge... probably wasn't running anyways... (Hope my good ole Dakota doesn't revolt over this joke...)
...didn't run when it was brand new, either...damned dash-mounted push-button transmission
 
Also, a small note, the handle should be cut from a 2x6, just for the added strength.

As a serious question, could you peen a pin from stainless cable? I mean, it would need some sort of collar countersunk into the scale to hold it. Or am I just an idiot who stumbled face first into how mosaic pins are actually made and everyone else already knows this? Just thinking of coat hanger mosaic pins and then wandered off to steel cable.
 
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