Who else uses a scythe?

:cool:Thank you for initiating a discussion about the scythe and other simple, useful tools. While I personally have no experience using a scythe, I am intrigued by them and hope to follow up on some of the references and links provided here. :cool:

As a Peace Corps volunteer in Samoa (formerly Western Samoa), I lived in a village and saw where a scythe and other simnple tools would be very useful. Every Samoan village has a central square ("malae")
where ceremonies and communal gatherings take place. In a humid, tropical climate like that of Samoa, the grass grows very quickly and must frequently be trimmed by young men using machetes (bush knives) with constant bending over as the grass is trimmed. It seems to me that the scythe would be a perfect fit for this job, as it is relatively inexpensive and requires no fuel or expensive maintenance.

Unfortunately, importation of scythes is not done there and development experts do not seem to be familiar with them. Also, Samoans and other Pacific Islanders seem to only want the powered weed whackers and chain saws that they see being used in the USA, New Zealand and Australia. There is a resistance to adopting the simpler, less expensive solutions used in earlier times.

My ancestors came from Norway and were immigrants to Wisconsin in the 1800's. My father grew up on a dairy farm in Wisconsin before World War II and drove horses, used brush hooks and was familiar with scythes. Unfortunately, the idea that "most modern and most expensive is good" colors the attitude of many peoples is developing countries.

While I have no real experience with the scythe, I had limited success introducing introducing the tubular frame pruning saw (36 inch blade) to several Samoan families, there does seem to be an initial resistance to the adoption of the simple, older, less expensive tools. I suppose local peope in developing countries do not know know that early Ameicans cleared land for farms and cut down forests (the Paul Bunyan stories come to mind) using the simple tools that some of my ancestors grew up with. Such is the power of television and of Intenet advertising. :)

At one time, I borrowed and read an interesting book on scythes. I think it was called "The Scythe Book" but I do not know an author, publisher or copyright date. This book might be worth searching for.

Faiaoga ("schoolteacher" in Samoan)

Be careful of The Scythe Book. David Tresemer (the author) is sort of the scythe version of the History Channel. A good place to start getting a topical concept of the scythe, but it makes a lot of mistakes. Don't believe a word he says about the American scythe.

Also, scythes aren't cheap! Not new, at least. I'm sure Samoans would LOVE scythes if they were introduced to them, but few would probably be able to afford them. The machetes they use are probably dirt cheap to us, but a significant investment to them. :o

However, welcome to the wonderful world of scythes! They're the only edged tool that gives me as much enjoyment as machetes do. :D:thumbup:
 
Thanks for your interest and comments. You and other contributors do seem to have knowledge and experience in developing countries that could be very helpful. :)Fa'afetai tele lava ("thank you"). Faiaoga
 
Thanks--I'm honestly fairly close to a beginner when it comes to scythes but most of the true experts on the use of the American scythe are dead or not very strongly networked and I don't have the available time to chase them down. I would if I could, though!
 
...It seems to me that the scythe would be a perfect fit for this job, as it is relatively inexpensive and requires no fuel or expensive maintenance.

Unfortunately, importation of scythes is not done there and development experts do not seem to be familiar with them. Also, Samoans and other Pacific Islanders seem to only want the powered weed whackers and chain saws that they see being used in the USA, New Zealand and Australia. There is a resistance to adopting the simpler, less expensive solutions used in earlier times...

In Nepal, the harvest of wheat is traditionally done by women with sickles (short video less than one minute) :

[video=youtube;06edzfeznHM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06edzfeznHM&feature=plcp[/video]


A Canadian named Alexander Vido is trying to introduce the scythe to Nepal, to make the harvest easier (another very short video):

[video=youtube;fMxSCDp-f9I]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMxSCDp-f9I&feature=plcp[/video]


Unfortunately, gasoline-powered equipment is being promoted there to replace the sickles, when scythes would be a better solution:

[video=youtube;sjasNdqqaBY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjasNdqqaBY&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Note that the scythe does a better job of piling up the wheat for bundling.

For more info on the Scythe Project in Nepal:
http://scytheworks.ca/SPIN.html
 
Cute li'l "faux-cradle" on that string trimmer, but yeah there's no way that can compete with a cradle scythe! Especially in the hands of a Vido! :D
 
LOL I love using an axe too, don't get me wrong! I enjoy that as much as I enjoy using a good shovel or pick. Or my hay knife. :D Nothing's quite as therapeutic for me as using a scythe or a machete to get some good quality clearing done.
 
It was made know to me in another thread that Seymour was purchased just a couple of months ago by Midwest Rake. This gives me some hope. I've sent a letter to the president of Midwest Rake to see if I can catch his ear regarding the simple fixes their scythes so badly need. I'll report back if I hear anything.

Seymour scythes are, like, 95% of the way to being a decent and useful tool. The sad thing is that last 5% renders the tool an inoperable mess. Given how easy it should be to correct the problems, I really hope he listens.
 
It was made know to me in another thread that Seymour was purchased just a couple of months ago by Midwest Rake. This gives me some hope. I've sent a letter to the president of Midwest Rake to see if I can catch his ear regarding the simple fixes their scythes so badly need. I'll report back if I hear anything.

Seymour scythes are, like, 95% of the way to being a decent and useful tool. The sad thing is that last 5% renders the tool an inoperable mess. Given how easy it should be to correct the problems, I really hope he listens.

Lets hope they listen up. Good luck.

I have a lead on a couple old scythes from a barn being restored. He said they were 40 feet up in the rafters and covered with bird poop. He said the snaths looked alright and the blades were just rusty. Hopefully there is the good glassy hard grass blade that has been eluding me for so long. Ive gone through 6 so far and not one has taken or held a keen edge. Most bend easily as well.
 
Interesting! Let us know what comes of it! If you're looking for glassy hard just scour eBay for TrueTemper blades. I still can't believe how the tip on mine cracked like an eggshell when I tried to peen out a manufacturing defect! :eek:

I should be picking up a nice old scythe this week with a Derby & Ball snath that looks to be in beautiful shape--half the color paper label is still present and the owner says there aren't any cracks in any of the wooden components!
 
If you're looking for glassy hard just scour eBay for TrueTemper blades. I still can't believe how the tip on mine cracked like an eggshell when I tried to peen out a manufacturing defect! :eek:

Same thing happened to me. Old American scythe blades aren't like the new European blades. Some old ones are hard and shouldn't be peened. I hope this word gets out before any more great classics are chipped and cracked. It would be helpful if websites like ScytheConnection put warnings on their pages along with their advice about sharpening/peening techniques.

It's a disservice to the public to discuss peening as though it is a requirement when in the case of many classic blades it is verboten.
 
Yeah--tell me about it. I even know that you aren't supposed to peen American blades but had had good success repairing a wrinkled edge on a Maine-made bush blade with careful and gentle peening. The TrueTemper in question had a drooping toe which would have predisposed it towards burying the point in the dirt. Since it was a Dutch pattern weed blade I didn't think the heat treatment would be so frickin' hard but I got a nice little spiderweb right past where the trough of the spine ran out. I cut the blade down and it still works great even if it's a little ugly, but now I know to be careful with TrueTempers! :eek: :o Gotta' love the heel on a good Dutch pattern blade, though, and that's just fine. :D
 
To the best of my knowledge, yes they are. I have no first-hand experience with them as of yet though.
 
How about the swedish scythe blades? Are those tempered very hard as well?


I don't know about modern Swedish scythe blades. I have a vintage Craftsman (made in Sweden) that is quite hard. I wouldn't risk peening it after my experience with the True Temper.

42, do you have any modern European peenable blades that you could test with a center punch? Perhaps you could get an idea of the relative hardnesses of modern vs. vintage blades. Then others could do a center punch test before risking peening their blades. For example, you could strike each blade with the force used to set a nail and check the result. Then strike each with the force used to drive a nail and record that result. It wouldn't be scientific but it might still be useful.
 
...do you have any modern European peenable blades that you could test...

Peter Vido had some hardness tests done on European blades, which might be useful:

"Most makers today claim to temper their scythe blades to 45-47 Rc. (at 150 lb.), although I've tested plenty of samples from various sources which are less than that, occasionally as low as 40. I do this mainly in Rossleithen (the Styria/Fux blades do meet that standard, by the way.) "

As far as the work hardening effect from peening the edge, Peter had some laboratory tests done:

"The average hardness in the "core" of the blade, at all three section positions, was about 430 Vickers diamond pyramid number (VHN). This corresponds to a hardness of about 44 Rockwell C. (A 10 kg load was first used for this core hardness testing.) The core hardness was also measured using a microhardness testing machine. The result from this testing was about 460 VHN, corresponding to about 46 Rockwell C, in reasonable agreement with the Vickers macrohardness results. Microhardness tests were then made closer to the cutting edge. These tests showed that the hardness increased only very slightly in the sections taken from the positions which had simply been factory hammered but there was a modest hardness increase, to about 560 VHN (53 Rockwell C), in the region that had been hand hammered. (The hardness close to the cutting edge was only measured by a microhardness method.) These results are shown graphically below...and the hardness positions are shown in a separate sketch."

Picture3.gif


Picture5.gif


Some of Peter's comments about the results:

"Although Dr. Thornley refers to the increase in hardness as modest, I consider it actually rather significant, and higher than I expected. Remember, this was after the first peening (by hand)... Secondly, the test did not include the last 1mm or even 1/2mm--the zone which actually does the cutting and determines retention of keenness. That portion I (and my technician friends in Austria) suspect ends up considerably harder. Yet at the same time, any experienced mower who has been peening well knows that the edge retains all the toughness it really needs... Some may wonder why no significant difference in hardness was noted between the factory-peened edge and the main body of the blade. This is because the manufacturer's peening is designed to make the steel "flow" more than "pack" (affected by the sequence of blows and the shape of the hammering "kern".) The traditional process packs the metal more in relation to how little it is moved."

-- quoted from Peter Vido's "Scythe Connection" site
http://scytheconnection.com/adp/docs/hardness/index.html


To estimate the hardness for the American blades, without a Rockwell tester it might be possible to ballpark it by seeing how easily it files (I know that some guys estimate the Rc numbers this way on axes and knife edges).
 
I don't know about modern Swedish scythe blades. I have a vintage Craftsman (made in Sweden) that is quite hard. I wouldn't risk peening it after my experience with the True Temper.

42, do you have any modern European peenable blades that you could test with a center punch? Perhaps you could get an idea of the relative hardnesses of modern vs. vintage blades. Then others could do a center punch test before risking peening their blades. For example, you could strike each blade with the force used to set a nail and check the result. Then strike each with the force used to drive a nail and record that result. It wouldn't be scientific but it might still be useful.

The problem with that is that a center punch would still potentially crack a very hard blade unless you were using a very weak spring-loaded punch. To my understanding, Swedish scythe blades are very similar to American in hardness. In general if it's an American blade...don't peen it. In the case of TrueTemper blades, don't peen them even if it's carefully done in an attempt to repair deformation--it'll still crack.
 
Same thing happened to me. Old American scythe blades aren't like the new European blades. Some old ones are hard and shouldn't be peened. I hope this word gets out before any more great classics are chipped and cracked. It would be helpful if websites like ScytheConnection put warnings on their pages along with their advice about sharpening/peening techniques.

It's a disservice to the public to discuss peening as though it is a requirement when in the case of many classic blades it is verboten.

Peter Vido asked me to post this for him:


Square_peg,

To initially alleviate your anxiety: ANY scythe blade can be peened, period. And, if the job is well done, its performance is likely to benefit.
However, that is not to say that the American, British or the Scandinavian style of blades (all of which were traditionally ground) should be peened. Nor, contrary to popular statements to that effect, do I think that the so-called "Austrian style" blades 'must' be peened.
Furthermore, there is plenty of evidence that some people should not peen ANY blades...

Now, to extrapolate on the above statements/strong opinions:

Saying that ANY scythe blade can be peened is, of course, a presumptuous statement (whosoever has peened ALL of the scythe blades ever produced!) though I make it 'on trust' -- having peened a really wide array of them, produced throughout more than a century and by many different enterprises. Those include some supposedly 'unpeenable' ones, made in Finland and Norway. (It was the Swedish scythe guru that told me that these cannot be peened.) I subsequently had, in an Austrian factory, the Rc hardness of those two products tested and they were 52 and 58 respectively. Both came with a rather steep factory bevel; meant to be serviced by means of a grindstone. Well, I peened both of them without getting any cracks (detectable under 10x magnification), though I would not recommend that the average beginner tries to peen blades of such hardness.

However, all of the American blades I've tried peened 'like butter' in comparison, and I have consequently suggested (by way of our addendum to The Scythe Book, and personally to numerous individuals) that folks initially practice peening on these (more cheaply obtainable, used) specimens -- before they mess-up their new $70 blades. However, some preliminary preparation of the edge of the old, rusty blades with rounded edges is in order!!

I have no data on the average hardness of the old 'American Pattern' blades (made on this continent or overseas) and no Rc tester here on the farm. But (perhaps wrongly) I guess that they were not factory- tempered to much more than 45Rc. That is, supposedly, the hardness of the run of the mill of today's global scythe blade production. (Some factories claim that their's are 47 - 48 Rc, but having had many samples tested, below 45 is as frequent as above it...)

Two additional notes may be of interest here:
1. According to some reports (Tashio Odate's writings, etc) the Japanese traditionally hammer-shaped (that is 'peened') their 60+ Rc chisels, after the factory-made hollow on the underside wore off enough to require it. That, I reckon, must be a 'task and a half' -- given the edge thickness of a chisel in general and the hardness of a Japanese one in particular.
2. I did once have a chance to peen a section of a blade made perhaps 100 years ago in Austria for some region of the old Russia, which tested 62 Rc. Initially, my friend Ernst Schoiswohl, a technician at the Schroekenfux scythe factory, could not believe the tester. So he retested it three times. It was a consistent 62 throughout (point, mid-blade and beard; a rare thing) but, with a careful touch, also peenable...

On the subject of peening I ought to add that there is a very substantial difference between the sort of peening periodically required by a well-beveled edge (initially peened in a factory), and a rounded off (by whetting) edge of a neglected blade, especially if the latter had been allowed to be pitted by rust. In our 2001 Scythe Book Addendum we gave brief pointers on how to handle these -- provided one chooses a hammer as opposed to the grinding wheel as a beveling (not 'sharpening', per se, in my jargon) tool.

There you have it -- my opinions in a nutshell with regard to peening blades that are meant to be ground . Yes these are opinions only, nevertheless they stem from more than reading or dabbling at the task...
 
Yeah--tell me about it. I even know that you aren't supposed to peen American blades but had had good success repairing a wrinkled edge on a Maine-made bush blade with careful and gentle peening. The TrueTemper in question had a drooping toe which would have predisposed it towards burying the point in the dirt. Since it was a Dutch pattern weed blade I didn't think the heat treatment would be so frickin' hard but I got a nice little spiderweb right past where the trough of the spine ran out. I cut the blade down and it still works great even if it's a little ugly, but now I know to be careful with TrueTempers! :eek: :o Gotta' love the heel on a good Dutch pattern blade, though, and that's just fine. :D

Peter Vido asked me to post this for him:


Now, 42blades, I hope you won't mind several friendly 'corrections' while still on this subject.

1.The fact that your True Temper blade developed 'spider cracks' is not yet a proof of it being un-peenable; all it may speak of is your peening skill...
Furthermore, IF what you were trying to accomplish was to 'lift the point', we ought to clarify some terminology first. When the scythe folks talk of peening they have in mind the cold-shaping of the scythe blade's edge. Nothing more.
There are several other cold hammering steps in a scythe blade making process that are very unlike peening . One of them is referred to as 'making adjustments' to the "Verlauf" (I don't know the English equivalent) of the whole blade. In the industry's jargon this (in German) is the task of the so-called "Richter".
The 'Richter' can lift (or lower) the point of a blade by 1/2" or more, very quickly, by a few relatively hard blows of his 3+ lb. hammer. But these blows are along the back rib, NOT the blade's body proper, and have nothing to do with what is generally referred to as 'peening' of scythe blades..

2. Though I share your apparent intent "to improve the present state of affairs", I think you are squandering your time/energy by trying to have Seymour make any changes on present blade design. For one thing, the Seymour company has not turned out a scythe blade for at least 40+ years. Whether they ever did, I do not know (the history of American scythe industry is not my specialty). What I do know is that several Austrian companies have supplied them with blades for a very long time. While it is true that a 'good' customer (one who orders a large number) can ask for a change in the technical specs of a product, or have the factory make a fundamentally new blade designed to customer's wishes, it would take many guys like yourself (and far more American scythe demand) to move Seymour to do so.
Hey, it had taken me years (12 to be exact) to inspire a few significant changes within the scythe industry (both in blade/snath design as well as edge finishing) -- and I'm not quite there yet... At that, I've made 20+ trips to Austria and demonstrated my notions to the few 'insiders' who actually used the tool. We mowed together, discussed the concepts, made prototypes and tested them, re-discused the issues, etc. All that eventually led to some changes...

3. As for your guess that the hot stamp on X's old blade indicates a Seymour product -- it's definitely not so. This (in German referred to as "Blume", meaning 'flower') is an old trademark of the Austrian scythe industry. Schrokenfux (one of the last two outfits still making blades in that country) has the official right to it now, and some blades sold in USA and Canada sport that stamp still. Seymour has simply been one of the (numerous) dealers selling that trademark.
As you know, labels -- be they stuck on or hot stamped -- are only a partial indication as to where the tool was actually made. Long before the GATT agreements were put into place, some tool companies made products name-designated 'to order' (by the buyer) -- which meant that other-than-the-maker's name was sometimes hot-stamped on the tool. It is more the case nowadays than it ever was... with scythes as well as other blades, including axes!

4. On the subject of The Scythe Book -- the sort of a bible on this topic within the English speaking world -- I agree with you, somewhat, but only somewhat...

David was, I believe, truly passionate about the scythe, and (as a PhD in psychology) knew how to write about it with flair. He did some research and came up with a sum of 'scythe facts' of which a portion were flawed, some more than others.
The biggest single mistake he made regarding the American scythe blades was to refer to the bulk of them as 'hard' and 'stamped' -- which the vast majority of them were not. This statement, unfortunately, has spread like wildfire and keeps being reiterated -- depreciatively -- by other authors on the subject.
However, I'd like to temper your statement "don't believe....". In many respects I do share David's opinion on the virtues of the American versus the 'European' (not necessarily Austrian) scythe. A tool to accomplish the same task North Americans had at hand could have been designed along more convivial lines. But such is the story of human learning... sometimes we do well, sometimes we don't.

That said, if some of you Americans feel affinity for this continent's scythe traditions (including the use of the typical snaths and the grinding of the blades), so be it. As long as you keep the blades "whispering through the grass" I applaud your efforts! I further encourage the restoring of ANY scythe blades (even the rusty ones from '40 feet up in the rafters') because I believe they will one day be again appreciated for the purpose they were made for.

As an ax-forum-deserved side note, where the Americans were asleep, in my view, regarding good scythe design, they made up for in the realm of axes. As you can read here (on head geometry) and here (on ax handles), I consider many of the American axes representing the epitome in ax design.

Both of these tools deserve to be re-vitalized. The scythe 'renaissance' of a sort is now in progress, though more evident in countries other than USA or Canada; the Brits actually have us beat by a long shot, and so do the Danes.

A question to the members of this ax forum: Where does the ax stand in this regard? To be specific, are there more trees cut down, limbed and processed by means of an ax this year than was the case last year? Or are more axes merely collected, restored and hung on the wall?...
 
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Ah--see I didn't mean for the spider cracks that formed in the TrueTemper blade to be taken as the result of peening in the sense of edge preparation. It was nevertheless peening since it was making use of the pein face of the hammer, but not in the sense typically applied to scythes. The bush blade that I repaired by peening was more close to the typical interpretation though of course it was still not my goal in that case to imply that I was attempting to peen the edge as a means of sharpening--it was simply a repair of a wrinkled edge. As an aside, I saved the severed tip of that TrueTemper blade if Mr. Vido is interested in it for hardness testing purposes whenever he happens to have opportunity.

My main aim regarding Seymour is to have them stop butchering the nibs. The actual snath as a whole is reasonably well executed, though the "web" (or as I refer to it the mounting collar, as to not confuse it with the web of the blade) is much more crude and simplistic than even fairly rudimentary historical American ones. If they just include the nibs in a separate little bag instead of over-cranking them and inadvertently fusing them in position with coarse grinding then they'd at least have a good usable snath for folks to use with all of the good blades still kicking around. It's MUCH easier to find good vintage blades than a good vintage snath! I can only hope that they'll consider the slight changes to the blades. Part of the problem with there being relatively low demand for American scythes is because of all of the talk of them being clumsy and inefficient...but the other half of the problem is that Seymour's present product proves them right. Demand could be increased if the product itself was actually usable. Since they were purchased by Midwest Rake a couple months back I have hope that the president will at least have the sense to tell them to stop breaking their own product before it even gets to retailers. :o

In my experience thus far (I have far fewer years under my belt with regard to scythes as a whole, although I've long held interest) there seems to have been a MASSIVE range of quality when it comes to American scythe blades. Some genuinely are awful and are overly thick, heavy, and soft, and some (like the modern Seymour blades) have far too little curvature to be effective even in lighter vegetation and are unpleasant to use. Those blades that I've found to be of high quality have been light, stiff, with good curvature, hard heat treatment, and many have a slight lift to the tang. The popular snath manufacturer Sta-Tite (seemingly second most popular historically after Seymour) made several models under the descriptor of "back saver" and those models had a wedge to the plate of the mounting collar so that blades which did not have angled tangs would lie properly. The overall complexity of those particular models is low so I'll see if I can reference comparative pricing on them in some of the vintage catalogs I've been able to turn up online. It makes me wonder if they were geared towards folks buying inexpensive blades that lacked angled tangs.

As always, a big thanks to Mr. Vido for the response, and also to Steve for playing Hermes. :D:thumbup:
 
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