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This is the way I do it as well. Even after spring tweaks.I bend my thumb back and use the hard inner section of the joint to depress the release.
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This is the way I do it as well. Even after spring tweaks.I bend my thumb back and use the hard inner section of the joint to depress the release.
I have a Chinook 4, it's easy to use but... it has blade play up and down that drives me nuts. I don't like wiggle up and down. So it lives in a drawerOk, raise your hand if you have tried Spyderco‘s PowerLock (Chinook 4 or Tatanka).
I have a Chinook 4, it's easy to use but... it has blade play up and down that drives me nuts. I don't like wiggle up and down. So it lives in a drawer
Interesting, it doesn't effect function but I just can't lol...This is what got me away from Seki made Spydercos (not saying Chinook is Seki-made, just that I had that issue on every Seki made Spydie).
ETA: Just looked it up. Country of origin: Japan.![]()
I have a number of knives with triad locks and have never had a problem with disengaging any of them. I bend my thumb back and use the hard inner section of the joint to depress the release. That section of the thumb is hard, not fleshy. Mine fits quite easily into the depression in the back of the knife where the release bar is. Very easily depresses the release bar.
I agree that triad locks are not "fidget friendly", but then I don't think any lockback is. And I don't fidget with my knives, anyway.
Cold Steel Voyager is my only knife to close during use when accidentally struck on the spine. There was no dirt in the mechanism. It was a regular old school mid lock. Spyderco’s stated tolerances for lock back wiggle are unacceptable to me but I’ve never received a lockback from them that wasn’t solid.Cold steel is the king, Spydercos and bucks are both great though