Who takes their knives apart? And who leaves them alone and assembled???

I used to tinker with everything, guns, knives, watches and cell phones. I took my ZT 0566 apart to de-assist and install titanium backspacers. For the life of me I cannot get the blade anywhere close to being centered. I have tried everything including the "Hinderer trick" but to no avail. I have decided to go with "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it."

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Have you tried putting the knife back together the way it came to see if you can get it centered? If so, then the knife doesn't like something you are changing. Have you checked to make sure the replacement backspace is the same exact thickness as what you are replacing? I could see that throwing the centering off fairly easily. That, or the holes aren't exactly in the right place?

I'm a bit surprised that it seems like the majority only take them apart if there is a reason. I kept reading about people taking apart knives to clean them and it seemed like a lot of people are doing it which is why I asked.

I'm completely confident taking them apart but it just doesn't seem necessary and asking for something to go wrong eventually.
 
I used to tinker with everything, guns, knives, watches and cell phones. I took my ZT 0566 apart to de-assist and install titanium backspacers. For the life of me I cannot get the blade anywhere close to being centered. I have tried everything including the "Hinderer trick" but to no avail. I have decided to go with "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it."

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Are the washers the same size? This could be a reason, otherwise maybe the backspacer is not even or has rough tolerances. Sometimes it's all about adjusting the screws on the scales and pivot in different ways.
 
Cleaning my amicus.. it was making a weird noise when open.
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I cleaned my eros ss with uncaged ikbs bearings. Dear god those are tiny and theres a LOT of them
 
Are the washers the same size? This could be a reason, otherwise maybe the backspacer is not even or has rough tolerances. Sometimes it's all about adjusting the screws on the scales and pivot in different ways.
One washer is about half the size of the other. I have spent nearly an hour tinkering with the screws and pivot and was able to get it to where it didn't rub and called it a day. I recently got a 0562cf (which I will not be taking apart) so I'm selling the 0566. Someone with more patience and know-how can probably get the blade centered.
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I'm not gonna bother to read everyone's response rather I'm just gonna answer the OP.

If it comes apart, I take it apart especially when BNIB, than again I'm a mechanic/machinist/millwright by trade and ever since I was able to hold tools have taken everything apart from legos and hot wheels to real houses and real cars. If you have the knowledge and the correct tools there's no reason not to take it apart. I've taken apart every Spyderco I own that came apart from the very first Spyderco that came apart to my OTF, coil and leaf spring autos. Blue removable to red permanent Loctite doesn't matter and I have sent knives back for warranty work and never had an issue because they never knew it was taken apart as it should be.

Like I said earlier, if you have the knowledge and the proper tools there would be no indication of previous disassembly. Even if they have tamper proof screws or use tamper resistant protocol if you know what you're doin' they'll never know you took it apart. If your that good then there's probably no reason to send a knife back anyway.

The main reason I take them apart too is to see what it looks like when it's new with no wear, missing or broken parts, this goes a long way in diagnosing problems and recognizing worn parts.

With all that bein' said, Sal has a right to Loctite the screws to prevent disassembly in order to keep from increasing the price point of an assembled finished product due to the cost of operator/owner incompetence while attempting service or repair when they clearly haven't the knowledge or skill set to do so. On the flip side of the coin is CRK who because of such tight tolerances and top notch QC encourage their owners to disassemble their knives even to the point of including the "proper" tools to do so.

Back in the 80s Buck had a great idea, they took one of their best selling knives and changed the platform to one of being able to be disassembled by the owner and like CRK several years later Buck even included the tool to take it apart and used that as a selling point in their advertising. Their tolerances and use of bushings in the pivot for the blade and the backspring lockbar made the assembly pretty much idiot proof but we all know when you make something better by making it idiot proof, better idiots evolve. Within one year Buck lost so much on service and warranty work because of the inability of enough of the owners to properly assemble an idiot proof knife they discontinued the titanium model 186 renamed it the 560 and permanently riveted the knife together solving a big problem on an otherwise cutting edge knife and cut their losses. BTW it also made the original 186 a highly sought after and collectible knife.

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About the only things I tinker with on my knives is changing my pocket clip or adjusting the blade pivot. I prefer to send my knives to the factory if further maintenance is needed.
 
I'm not gonna bother to read everyone's response rather I'm just gonna answer the OP.

If it comes apart, I take it apart especially when BNIB, than again I'm a mechanic/machinist/millwright by trade and ever since I was able to hold tools have taken everything apart from legos and hot wheels to real houses and real cars. If you have the knowledge and the correct tools there's no reason not to take it apart. I've taken apart every Spyderco I own that came apart from the very first Spyderco that came apart to my OTF, coil and leaf spring autos. Blue removable to red permanent Loctite doesn't matter and I have sent knives back for warranty work and never had an issue because they never knew it was taken apart as it should be.

Like I said earlier, if you have the knowledge and the proper tools there would be no indication of previous disassembly. Even if they have tamper proof screws or use tamper resistant protocol if you know what you're doin' they'll never know you took it apart. If your that good then there's probably no reason to send a knife back anyway.

The main reason I take them apart too is to see what it looks like when it's new with no wear, missing or broken parts, this goes a long way in diagnosing problems and recognizing worn parts.

With all that bein' said, Sal has a right to Loctite the screws to prevent disassembly in order to keep from increasing the price point of an assembled finished product due to the cost of operator/owner incompetence while attempting service or repair when they clearly haven't the knowledge or skill set to do so. On the flip side of the coin is CRK who because of such tight tolerances and top notch QC encourage their owners to disassemble their knives even to the point of including the "proper" tools to do so.

Back in the 80s Buck had a great idea, they took one of their best selling knives and changed the platform to one of being able to be disassembled by the owner and like CRK several years later Buck even included the tool to take it apart and used that as a selling point in their advertising. Their tolerances and use of bushings in the pivot for the blade and the backspring lockbar made the assembly pretty much idiot proof but we all know when you make something better by making it idiot proof, better idiots evolve. Within one year Buck lost so much on service and warranty work because of the inability of enough of the owners to properly assemble an idiot proof knife they discontinued the titanium model 186 renamed it the 560 and permanently riveted the knife together solving a big problem on an otherwise cutting edge knife and cut their losses. BTW it also made the original 186 a highly sought after and collectible knife.

I think we could be brothers form a different mother!
 
They all come apart at some point. I have never come across one that I couldn't get back together and centered. I work on a farm though so with the work I have done it only takes 2 or 3 months for a knife to get seriously gunked up and need to be taken apart, cleaned well, and oiled/lubed to keep them in good shape cosmetically and functionally.
 
Particularly my Emerson knives I have had to take apart because new Emersons come with a stupid copper fleck containing grease which is just terrible. So I take the knife apart and clean the inside completely then Benchmade BluLube that sucker.

Even my CRKs I take apart and prefer the BluLube to the Chris Reeve flourinated grease.
 
I used to love taking my knives apart cleaning each piece lubing the areas that need it and reassembling...but then I broke of the tip of a ball head hex driver (a Wiha) in my strider pt and since than I'm hesitant to do so.
Now I only disassemble if completely nessasary and I don't use ball ends.
 
I used to love taking my knives apart cleaning each piece lubing the areas that need it and reassembling...but then I broke of the tip of a ball head hex driver (a Wiha) in my strider pt and since than I'm hesitant to do so.
Now I only disassemble if completely nessasary and I don't use ball ends.

That was your first mistake, the ball ends aren't meant to break the machine screws loose, they're meant to speed removal and make removal of difficult to access socket head machine screws (after they've been broken free and turn easily). It's just usin' the right tool for the right job and when dealing with the smaller diameter machine screws usually the screw heads fail not the tool. I'd still use the ball ends if you have them, I'd even replace the one that broke, I'm sure WIHA would replace it for free and just use them how they were meant to be used.

Were you able to save the machine screw?
 
I enjoy taking my CRK's and Hinderers apart for routine maintenance... others, not so much. Sadly, one well-known and well-respected manufacturer that I otherwise absolutely love seems to think Red Loctite is a good idea.
 
That was your first mistake, the ball ends aren't meant to break the machine screws loose, they're meant to speed removal and make removal of difficult to access socket head machine screws (after they've been broken free and turn easily). It's just usin' the right tool for the right job and when dealing with the smaller diameter machine screws usually the screw heads fail not the tool. I'd still use the ball ends if you have them, I'd even replace the one that broke, I'm sure WIHA would replace it for free and just use them how they were meant to be used.

Were you able to save the machine screw?


I tried for hours to get he nib out but with no luck I tried everything I could think of. I asked my dad and even his tricks couldn't get it out. I ended up selling the knife.
 
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