Who uses a Lansky, I have a Question.

harrymole

harrymole

Joined
Sep 1, 2004
Messages
377
I bought a lansky system about three years ago and love it for folding knives. I have a hard time keeping the correct angle. My question is at what degree on the Lansky do you think is best for sharpening? I normally use 30 degrees, but is this 30 degrees each side or inclusive? I have been using lately 25 degress and seem to get a sharper edge, but the edge doesn't seem to last as long. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.:D
 
Tough question to answer without asking some questions about blade steel, what the blade is used for etc. In general I sharpen mine at the 25 degree setting. With my finger over the back of the rod to keep it set in the jig. I go through the stones making sure I raise a burr on each side. Lastly I use a leather strop to clean up the rest. In between I will use my sharpmaker at the 40 degree setting to keep the razor edge. But just my 2cents.
 
Well the knives in question are a BM Grip 440c, Stryker 154cm and a Ontario Rat 1 aus8. I am looking at general knife duties such as opening boxes, cutting plastic and some kitchen duties on occcasion. I can get them plenty sharp that is not an issue and I have found like you said stropping brings the edge out even more. I have also noticed and it may be me that after using the knife at the 25degree angle when stropped the edge comes back more readily. So , I guess I am just looking for comments on what the best or most useful angle to sharpen at. Thanks.:D
 
I too have been using the Lansky for years & I love it. As has been stated the degree depends on the steel but also IMO on what the intended use of the knife. The steeper the angle the more delicate the edge. And should be saved for any "razor" work. I sharpen my skinning knives at 20 degrees, almost all my pocketknives at 25 degrees & save the 30 degree angle for only thick blades that will be getting heavy duty use.
I believe the angle is for each side of the blade.
Dave
 
I use the lansky mostly for reprofiling. I usually use the 25 degree angle or is it 20 degrees I dont remember now. I also have several tricks I use in reprofiling. I like the lansky I wish it had more angles
 
After this thursday, I will never have to use my lansky again. . .Yay!
My only beef with the lansky is the very, very, crappy clamp that is nearly impossible to get the knife in straight and secure.

Last time I used the Lansky, I used the 25 degree setting on a swiss army knife, then the 40 degree setting on the sharpmaker to hone the edge.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
Last time I used the Lansky, I used the 25 degree setting on a swiss army knife, then the 40 degree setting on the sharpmaker to hone the edge.
Click to expand...

Rat,
You shouldn't even be touching the edge with the sharpmaker then on your second pass. To my understanding you would be sharpening the shoulder of the bevel by starting at 25 degrees(50 inclusive, sets your edge) and then going to a steeper angle to finish at 20 degrees (40 inclusive, sharpens the shoulder). That's what makes sense in my head anyway.:o

oil

edit: unless the lansky is actually 25 degrees inclusive which seems fairly thin. (12.5 degrees per side)
 
I use a Lansky and I run my knives at 25 degrees most of the time. I do think the clamp on it sucks though.

I just don't like how with a sharpmaker you can have errors because you can move the knife any angle you want.

I would really like to have an edgepro. :)
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
After this thursday, I will never have to use my lansky again. . .Yay!
My only beef with the lansky is the very, very, crappy clamp that is nearly impossible to get the knife in straight and secure.

Last time I used the Lansky, I used the 25 degree setting on a swiss army knife, then the 40 degree setting on the sharpmaker to hone the edge.
Click to expand...

that is exactly my thoughts on the lansky, its just too cumbersome, and the clamp isnt too great.
 
I agree a little on the clamp it is kinda cheesy, but is does work. I guess on some knives with a false top edge it would be knida hard to clamp to. I have never used a sharpmaker, but I have seen them. I did use a ceramic type sharpener similar , but did not like it. I have also used wetstone, diamond stones. my father instructed me on how to use the smith arkansas stones. I was pretty good until I got a knife with real metal in the blade, so I bought the Lansky.I get good if not very good results and I know no steel will hold a razors edge for ever, I just cannot figure out why the 30 degree angle while shaving sharp loses its edge so quickly and yet seems to have a longer usable edge compared to the 25 degree angle. I get better results with the 25 degree angle on initial sharpness just not longevity. Comments?

( I use 20 degrees on my SAK with awesome results but there again the initial edge may last a day or two.):D
 
ThreadMoving.jpg
 
OilMan said:
Rat,
You shouldn't even be touching the edge with the sharpmaker then on your second pass. To my understanding you would be sharpening the shoulder of the bevel by starting at 25 degrees(50 inclusive, sets your edge) and then going to a steeper angle to finish at 20 degrees (40 inclusive, sharpens the shoulder). That's what makes sense in my head anyway.:o

oil

edit: unless the lansky is actually 25 degrees inclusive which seems fairly thin. (12.5 degrees per side)
Click to expand...

I know it sounds wierd, but thats what worked. I really dont think the Lansky angles are at all accurate. Thankfully, I am getting my EZE Bladesharpener on thursday, and the lansky will be retired.
 
I have had a Lansky for a number of years. For me it works well within certain parameters. First, the knife needs to be saber ground. If it is hollow or flat ground all the way to the back, the clamp won’t hold because you don’t have two parallel sides to grab. When you clamp the blade, try to keep the two halves of the clamp close to parallel and hold the blade with just the end of the clamps. Try to keep the edge perpendicular to the stone, this will help to keep the angle consistent from heal to toe of the blade. I also glued a small piece of spring steel to the clamp that the thumb screw comes in contact with, this will help to keep the clamps aligned to each other when tightening the screw without wearing the aluminum.

The angles marked on the clamp are supposed to be per side, but are only marginally accurate. It depends on the width of the blade. If you are sharpening a wide blade, the angle will be smaller then when trying to sharpen a narrow pocket knife blade.

The setup works well once you have a consistent, flat bevel along the entire edge on both sides. If you are sharpening a factory edge, this can take quite a while, most edges are not anywhere near 20 degrees per side. Keep working the edge until you get a small burr on the opposite side, then go to the opposite side and do the same. Once you have created a burr on both sides, go to the next finer stone. Hope this helps.

Richard
 
:D Thanks for moving this cougar. I know most knife companies use 30 degrees inclusive so in essence I would have to use the 17-20 degree marks to keep with the companies initial edge. That seems awful steep and thin. On my Stryker I noticed when I first sharpened at 30 degrees it did not vary to far from the grinds from the factory edge. Thanks again for all the input.
 
harrymole said:
:D .... I know most knife companies use 30 degrees inclusive so in essence I would have to use the 17-20 degree marks to keep with the companies initial edge. ....
Click to expand...
I haven't seen many knives regardless of company that goes 30° inclusive (15° per side) until you get into semi custom production. A lot of knives are coming out with 35 per side or greater. The exception would appear to be Normark fillet knives with 15° per side.

A LOT of commercial knifes are being sharpened (if you want to call it that) with machines putting 30 degrees per side. No relief grind, nothing. Just zip and they are done. This includes a lot of brand name kitchen knives. It truly is bad.
 
So, They do not use 30 inclusive, my bad. Thanks for the correction. Let me pose the question this way if I did go with say a sharpmaker or edge pro would my edge longevity improve over the lansky in every day chores? Or is that just my skill sucks or am I expecting too much from the steel I have (aus8,440c,154cm):D :rolleyes:
 
I'm guessing your getting a burr/wire edge and not removing it. A 25 degree edge per side, 50 degrees should last even on 440c. 440c is a pretty good steel and I'd guess the 17 degree per side should even work without trouble. Make sure your getting the burr/wire edge off.
 
QuietOned said:
I haven't seen many knives regardless of company that goes 30° inclusive (15° per side) until you get into semi custom production. A lot of knives are coming out with 35 per side or greater. The exception would appear to be Normark fillet knives with 15° per side.

A LOT of commercial knifes are being sharpened (if you want to call it that) with machines putting 30 degrees per side. No relief grind, nothing. Just zip and they are done. This includes a lot of brand name kitchen knives. It truly is bad.
Click to expand...

I have never owned any production knife with an edge like you describe. I think you don't know what you are talking about. That, or you buy the worlds dullest crappy knives.
 
You must not own a lot of knives.

I've sharpened on average just over 300 knives per month for the last three months. So when you said "I think you don't know what you are talking about" I had a good laugh.

Thanks for the humour I did need a good laugh.
 
Richard Sommer said:
I have had a Lansky for a number of years. For me it works well within certain parameters. First, the knife needs to be saber ground. If it is hollow or flat ground all the way to the back, the clamp won’t hold because you don’t have two parallel sides to grab. When you clamp the blade, try to keep the two halves of the clamp close to parallel and hold the blade with just the end of the clamps. Try to keep the edge perpendicular to the stone, this will help to keep the angle consistent from heal to toe of the blade. I also glued a small piece of spring steel to the clamp that the thumb screw comes in contact with, this will help to keep the clamps aligned to each other when tightening the screw without wearing the aluminum.

The angles marked on the clamp are supposed to be per side, but are only marginally accurate. It depends on the width of the blade. If you are sharpening a wide blade, the angle will be smaller then when trying to sharpen a narrow pocket knife blade.

The setup works well once you have a consistent, flat bevel along the entire edge on both sides. If you are sharpening a factory edge, this can take quite a while, most edges are not anywhere near 20 degrees per side. Keep working the edge until you get a small burr on the opposite side, then go to the opposite side and do the same. Once you have created a burr on both sides, go to the next finer stone. Hope this helps.

Richard
Click to expand...


**REREAD THIS POST. THIS IS THE BEST WAY TO USE A LANSKY. I would add, use diamond stones as they will stay flat and give more consistant results. Thanks Richard:thumbup:
 
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