Who uses a Lansky, I have a Question.

QuietOned said:
You must not own a lot of knives.

I've sharpened on average just over 300 knives per month for the last three months. So when you said "I think you don't know what you are talking about" I had a good laugh.

Thanks for the humour I did need a good laugh.
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I only own quality knives.
If you have a knife with a 70 degree inclusive edge angle, it is not a quality knife. it is a POS. So, you can sharpen 3000 or more crappy knives and it won't make your assertation factual.:jerkit:

If you think you are right, name me one quality knife that comes with a 70 degree edge.
 
I didn't say quality. I said production. The knife might be fine great steel the works. The edges are for crap.

BTW you'd been added to my ignore list.
 
QuietOned said:
I didn't say quality. I said production. The knife might be fine great steel the works. The edges are for crap.

BTW you'd been added to my ignore list.
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OK, so you don't have an example, and you actually don't have a clue what you are talking about, and now you will ignore me because I called you on your BS.:jerkit:

Way to be.:D

I don't consider any "production knife" that isn't quality to actually be a knife. I consider them to be festering piles of useless crap made to resemble a knife.

BTW, it should be spelled "You've", Not "You'd":p
 
I am removing the wire edge. After I sharpen it on the lansky ( I use the medium and the fine stone), I then strop it on a barbers strop. I guess mabey i am expecting too much from the steel. I would say the edge gets hair-popping sharp and last for a few days of about 2-3 hours use on cardboard and such. The one thing I know dulls the edge is zip ties but sometimes I don't have a choice but to use my knife. Thanks guys for all the input, I will continue to sharpen and improve anyway I can. Can you recommend a paste or polish that I can use to load my strop and where to find it? Thanks.:D
 
Try stropping off common garden variety cardboard found on the back of legal pads. Has just enough abrasive to take the burr off and polishes it up real sweet. Better still costs next to nothing. Otherwise, try Lee Valley or any other reputable wood working or hardware store for green metal polish.
 
Thank you wwells20. I agree with the diamond stones with one caveat, I have used and ruined them in short order. When you use diamond stones, any of them, use VERY little pressure. If used with to much pressure, the diamonds can embed in steel and get pulled loose from the substrate. If used with light pressure, this doesn't happen and the diamond stones work quite well.

I also agree with QuiteOned, MANY production knives come with obtuse primary grinds, in the range of 45 to 60 degrees, inclusive. Unless you are using a course stone, it can take quite a while to bring the angle down to 30 to 40 degrees.

Richard
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
OK, so you don't have an example, and you actually don't have a clue what you are talking about, and now you will ignore me because I called you on your BS.:jerkit:

Way to be.:D

I don't consider any "production knife" that isn't quality to actually be a knife. I consider them to be festering piles of useless crap made to resemble a knife.

BTW, it should be spelled "You've", Not "You'd":p
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You really need to work on your people skills. :(
 
Richard Sommer said:
I have had a Lansky for a number of years. For me it works well within certain parameters. First, the knife needs to be saber ground. If it is hollow or flat ground all the way to the back, the clamp won’t hold because you don’t have two parallel sides to grab. When you clamp the blade, try to keep the two halves of the clamp close to parallel and hold the blade with just the end of the clamps. Try to keep the edge perpendicular to the stone, this will help to keep the angle consistent from heal to toe of the blade. I also glued a small piece of spring steel to the clamp that the thumb screw comes in contact with, this will help to keep the clamps aligned to each other when tightening the screw without wearing the aluminum.

The angles marked on the clamp are supposed to be per side, but are only marginally accurate. It depends on the width of the blade. If you are sharpening a wide blade, the angle will be smaller then when trying to sharpen a narrow pocket knife blade.

The setup works well once you have a consistent, flat bevel along the entire edge on both sides. If you are sharpening a factory edge, this can take quite a while, most edges are not anywhere near 20 degrees per side. Keep working the edge until you get a small burr on the opposite side, then go to the opposite side and do the same. Once you have created a burr on both sides, go to the next finer stone. Hope this helps.

Richard
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Here's a sorta funny story in a lame kinda way. As a newbie to these forums with a lot of dull knifes I’ve been lurking in the shadows hoping to learn the right way to sharpen. I've tried benchstones for years. I always thought I just sucked at sharpening and had resigned myself to a lifetime of sending my knifes out. No one had ever taught me how to properly put an edge on. My general approach was to start with a course grit make 4 or 5 passes one way, then an equal number the other. Then start working my way to finer stones. Once in a blue moon I’d get a sharp edge, rarely razor sharp. I didn’t know anything about a strop. (I know I shoulda asked a long time age) About two weeks ago I bought a Lansky diamond setup thinking this will do the trick. I still sucked. Ran a search on lansky here, came across this post and suddenly a light came on… Do one side until you have a small burr… Duh... Once you have a burr you have your angle...Then do the other side… Well, I’ve got a dozen new bald spots on my arm, and a bunch more to get to. I can’t get to scary sharp but I will.

Thanks for the help…
 
Oster said:
Here's a sorta funny story in a lame kinda way. As a newbie to these forums with a lot of dull knifes I’ve been lurking in the shadows hoping to learn the right way to sharpen. I've tried benchstones for years. I always thought I just sucked at sharpening and had resigned myself to a lifetime of sending my knifes out. No one had ever taught me how to properly put an edge on. My general approach was to start with a course grit make 4 or 5 passes one way, then an equal number the other. Then start working my way to finer stones. Once in a blue moon I’d get a sharp edge, rarely razor sharp. I didn’t know anything about a strop. (I know I shoulda asked a long time age) About two weeks ago I bought a Lansky diamond setup thinking this will do the trick. I still sucked. Ran a search on lansky here, came across this post and suddenly a light came on… Do one side until you have a small burr… Duh... Once you have a burr you have your angle...Then do the other side… Well, I’ve got a dozen new bald spots on my arm, and a bunch more to get to. I can’t get to scary sharp but I will.

Thanks for the help…
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I you are to the point of hair shaveing sharp..... Just strop that sucker on a leather strop and you will be at SCARY sharp. You already there and you don't even know it!

Jim
 
I would also add to Richard Sommer's excellent post that I always keep notes on what angle I last used on each knife, as well as where I clamped the blade on the spine. This will help greatly on consistency and repeatability.
 
Fixed Blade Fever said:
I would also add to Richard Sommer's excellent post that I always keep notes on what angle I last used on each knife, as well as where I clamped the blade on the spine. This will help greatly on consistency and repeatability.
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Good point!:thumbup: I always learn something new here.:)
 
When sharpening the burr method watch so you keep the edge centered. Try and do ruffly the same amount of strokes/grinding on each side. I will only do about 50 strokes per side and if no burr forms I still switch to the other side. this can become a real problem with very dull blades. You can grind so much on one side before a burr forums that you've moved the center over quite a bit.
 
As far as the original question goes, I generally use the 20 degree setting and like the results. Most factory edges are more obtuse and it takes awhile to reprofile. The thinner the edge, the easier it will roll to one side, that's why I think the edge isn't lasting as long for you. Strop your knives. Even just using the back of a notepad or your jeans will bring the edge back on center and increase the time between sharpening. There's a ton of great threads about stropping and it's definitely worth looking into. I'm glad I did. It saved me alot of time and kept alot more steel on my blades rather than on my stones.
 
I think this is called a bevel edge, not sure though...

Anywy, this is what I do with my lansky, and I get great results:

Sharpen your blade with the finest angle (17.5 I think) with course all the way down to fine, making a burr each time. This will put a really sharp, really delicate edge on your blade. THEN, sharpen your blade again with coursse on down to fine, making a burr each step at the next lowest angle (20 or 25). This will but a more durable edge on your knife, and it will still be razor sharp. This type of edge has the added benefit of being easy to resharpen too. This is because you have to remove less steel when you resharpen (you are only hitting the tip of the edge upon resharpening).

You can finish up with a strop if you like, but I usually don't.

Hope this helps
 
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