Why a swedge or clip point with false edge, makes no sense??

A properly done swedge is a beautiful thing, and they do help in piercing.
Sharpen that swedge and now you've got a double edged knife which certainly isn't legal where I live.
 
Why not?
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Houlahound said:
If folks like the look have the best of both worlds and put a sharp edge on the false edge.

You maintain the same look and gain functionally - not even anyone can deny.
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I can deny .......

I have knives with a false edge.... that I can legally carry out and about....put an edge on that false edge, and I can no longer carry it many jurisdictions.....


On some designes and blade shapes, swedges and false edges look fantastic. Clips and harpoons and drop points, Oh My!



I also like cut swedges and drawn swedges and Rhomboid ground knives.
 
In some cases a swedge might reduce cutting drag. Horses and courses and all that jazz. I think that for certain makers and certain processes a swedge might give some of the benefit of a distal taper without the need for the same level of equipment. But at the end of day, its your pocket, you do you.
 
Bigfattyt said:
I have knives with a false edge.... that I can legally carry out and about....put an edge on that false edge, and I can no longer carry it many jurisdictions.....
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A false edge is sharp, otherwise it's a swedge. A "True Edge" is full length, hence a "False Edge" is not full length.
 
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Lesknife said:
On clip points I find it’s better for making more precise round hole cuts in various materials where as the flat top clip point makes more of a rough gouge. I like them.
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Exactly what I was going to say (for once I read the whole thread rather than just say something redundant).

Better in that the point is suported by some blade width but being releived (thinner right at the spine the point area can cut a curve more easily.

Lately I have begun to dip my toe into the blade design where the spine is not the thickest part of the blade. The whole blade is convexed . . . kind of the same thing.
 
Wowbagger said:
Lately I have begun to dip my toe into the blade design where the spine is not the thickest part of the blade. The whole blade is convexed . . . kind of the same thing.
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Not sure what you mean without pictures but yah I have been thinking the centre line or, slightly above, of a single edge knife could be thickest part.
 
gadgetgeek said:
In some cases a swedge might reduce cutting drag. Horses and courses and all that jazz. I think that for certain makers and certain processes a swedge might give some of the benefit of a distal taper without the need for the same level of equipment. But at the end of day, its your pocket, you do you.
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So GadgetGeek is the only one that knows anything about blade geometry here, it seems.

It's all about improving sliciness by reducing drag and weight reduction is a nice, added bonus.

Go search out some Jerry Fisk sharpening and blade geometry videos on YouTube. You'll learn TONS.

The BK-15 and BK-5 is his design and he employs similar concepts to his own blades.

Swedges and convex bevels for the win. :cool::thumbsup:
 
A swedge can be purely aesthetic ... but it does serve a purpose also ... it gives slightly better penetration ...

And batoning with one you get fire wood and tinder from the swedge ;)
 
Houlahound said:
^ Also these survival types need to learn that wood splitting is best left to an axe or hatchet.......like every pioneer and frontiersman everywhere knew for centuries then viola man lands on the moon and every weekend warrior starts cutting down trees and splitting logs with knives.
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that is for when you do not have an axe or hatchet. i assumed that was obvious :)
 
I am thinking about getting a Bark River Crusader for wilderness use. This has a rather long swedge back of the tip. I'm wondering if the metal removed for the swedge would weaken the knife too much for batoning dead fir and pine in western forests. Some of this wood can be tough and twisted, with hidden knots.

What do you think?

Thanks...
 
CanadaKnifeGuy said:
So GadgetGeek is the only one that knows anything about blade geometry here, it seems.

It's all about improving sliciness by reducing drag and weight reduction is a nice, added bonus.

Go search out some Jerry Fisk sharpening and blade geometry videos on YouTube. You'll learn TONS.

The BK-15 and BK-5 is his design and he employs similar concepts to his own blades.

Swedges and convex bevels for the win. :cool::thumbsup:
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Yeah, lets be careful about me getting credit for anything. Its a bad precedent to set.
 
IMO the swedge on a big bowie like the Cold Steel Natchez serves several purposes .

The swedge can be used for any utility application that doesn't require the sharp blade . Like smashing bone , wood , or scraping . This saves your primary sharp edge .

For fighting , the swedge acts as a partial DE in a back cut / backbite type of technique . Helps also in stabbing/piercing some and in utility fine point work like drilling .

My understanding is that if you don't further sharpen a factory swedge , it's not considered a DE for legal purposes .

Not a great review , just a look at the knife :

 
Depends on the jurisdiction. Check state by state case law.

Some have screwed over ppl for a non-sharpened swedge.
 
If it is sharp enough to cut, it will be considered an edge for purposes of Johnny Law, and Eager Beaver Prosecutor.


DrHenley said:
A false edge is sharp, otherwise it's a swedge. A "True Edge" is full length, hence a "False Edge" is not full length.
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I don't consider a false edge as definitively sharp or unsharpened. I've handled many knives labeled as having an false edge by custom makers that were incapable of delivering a cut with out a precipitous fall on to said false edge from a great height. Many custom makers disagree on this issue, and many will specify unsharpened false edge or sharpened. If you order a custom knife from a maker, make sure to clarify what you want, or what they think you mean, or you may find that they think the opposite of which ever you believe to be "correct".

I have had shaving sharp false edges delivered, and non sharpened. Both called a false edge by different makers. This has also been my experience with production knives as well.
 
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A puukko may give the same or similar penetration as a swedge on a thick blade. It's like a stake. Different approach.
 
Houlahound said:
If folks like the look have the best of both worlds and put a sharp edge on the false edge.

You maintain the same look and gain functionally - not even anyone can deny.
Click to expand...

You also could be looking into legal issues as that can classify as a double-edged knife.

Functionally, swedges are a great way to reduce some weight and rebalance a knife's center of gravity back towards the handle, same as a fuller/blood groove. If done well, it also creates a relief when slicing material is it creates less surface for the cut media to grab onto and create friction.

It also has nice aesthetics.

I actually prefer dull swedges. Even some of the false edges are too sharp and eat up my thumb for carving/fine work tasks. Buck's 119 swedge has caused a few sore thumbs before rounding it off a little more.
 
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