Why a tanto tip?

This example does not looks like traditional Japanese knife to me. Handle shape just way different then what they doing in Japan. To me this is bad imitation.

Here shot I made in Kukihide shop in Yokohama - nothing like this.

Kikuhide-10.jpg


As well as www.dick.biz do not have anithing like this.

I really doubt this is real Japanese knife.

Now if you check any Leuku you may see same tip strong for penetration without this silly sharp corner, which make blade useless.

Thanks, Vassili.


What is that knife at the very top of the shop pic? It looks exactly like the knife in question. I don't understand what you are saying.
 
Thanks, it is unagisaki! Eel head piercing knife!

Let me also Summarize.

Original Tanto - Japanese short (Tan) sword (To) which never considered to be a knife. In Japan it is under regulation applied to all swords. It is banned and suppose to be destroyed until it is national heritage. Cost from $3000 and up for new and only limited number of certifyed mastersmith can actually make them.

American Tanto - knife with flat sharpened front which creates sharp tip between front and bevel. Presented as authentic Japanese design used by samurai on the battlefield - brutal armor piercing weapon, bla, bla, bla... All this of course has nothing to do with real tanto and probably was inspired by Unagisaki - special kitchen knife for eels, which has this flat ftont for piercing eel head and cut enrier eel body with single move.

There is no any historical evidence that this type of tip was used for armor piercing.

However in modern Russian knife fighting technic developed by Andrei Kochergin http://koicombat.org/ knife with wide flat front used in the fight to make wide cuts with piercing kind of move, which make more damage then with clip point. Andrei Kochergin design this knife - NDK-17 based on American tanto.

Piercing ability has nothing to do with this kind of tip, but crossection geometry. Chisel flat front distributes force on target evenly but in acase of tanto tip, the fact that it has some angle does not allow to have same even distribution.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
PD---My drinking days are over. Now it's diet Pepsi! Very funny story!! I have some Hartsfields, FWIW. Don't tell just anyone.
 
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i have just recently bought the "ka-bar" black tanto blade, model number is 1245. can somone tell me if i bought a good knife? im new to buying knives and i was wonderin if i got a good tanto blade. if you could email me the answer that would be great you can post it too if you want for others to read so they will know if its a good blade or not. i got it from a army surplus store for 96$(with the glass nylon scabbard) . thanks a million
 
Welcome to the forums, Houston! Contributions are always welcome, but you do know you are responding to a two year old thread, no? :)
 
Yes, I do know this thread is more than the two years old it was last time someone necroposted but it comes up on google hits and is full of such misinformation that needs to be addressed.

One thing that makes a so called "tanto" tip (no matter if it's an americanized, sharp angled one or a more traditional rounded one)

Let's be clear, any of the varieties of tanto have more in common with a FS knife point than they do the chisel like americanised chisel tip (which I won’t call a tanto here). Their tips are both more acicular than the chisel and have a more gradual taper. Lumping the two together doesn't help your argument.

more suitable for piercing armor than a blade that becomes gradually wider from the tip to the hilt (for example a Fairbairn/Sykes style dagger), other than that the dagger tip is more fragile,

Here is why lumping then together doesn’t help: tanto (the true kind) are rounded and do become gradually wider from the tip to part way along the blade. So in less than one sentence you’ve said traditional tanto are more suitable for piercing armour than traditional tanto .

The thickness is the only benefit. Needle dagger tips are fragile but you have to remember that the FS knife was not designed with armour in mind, just cloth and flesh. Older dagger designs for armour penetration do have quite slender tips but are thicker and stronger than the FS knife and worked quite well for piercing mail.

is that since the tanto blade has the same width all the way up to the tip and doesn't taper into a sharp point until just before the front end of the knife, you can use the initial velocity of a violent hard stab to first force the tip of the blade through the armor.

Once the tip part of the blade is through the armor, it doesn't take so much more force to push the rest of the knife into the body, since the initial impact of the tip already has ripped up a wide enough hole in the armor to give room for the rest of the knife, since the blade never becomes any wider than the tip part.

Please note “violent hard stab”. It does have to be hard as will be noted. Also, where is this imaginary chisel point that doesn’t have a blade that gets wider? I’ve just measured one that was about 30% wider at the hilt than the end of the point region (at what equates to a sword’s yokote if that term means anything to the reader). This is kind of important. It means about 75% of the blade’s width occurs in the first few millimetres.

The second paragraph of that quoted section above contains just about 100% of all the correctness in the quoted post. Once the hole in the armour is made resistance to further penetration is lower. Once...

And then you have to do damage to the target behind the armour, unless you’re just trying to perforate a car for some inexplicable reason.

A Fairbairn/Sykes style dagger is more effective for making many quick deep stab wounds to an unprotected area, but if you were to use it against an armored body part, what would happen would probably be that when you stab the target, the thin tip might penetrate the armor nicely at first, but once the tip is through and the momentum is lost, it's a lot harder to force the rest of the knife through, since it becomes gradually wider towards the hilt.
You would have to push the knife through the armor.

Let’s be clear again, no matter the blade shape they all have to be pushed through this hypothetical armour. The only difference is what proportion of the blade and what they do on the other side.

If you instead have a tanto, all the armor piercing that you have to do takes place at the impact of the stab (when the attack is as strongest), and after that, you only have to push it through flesh.

You have completely and entirely overlooked the fundamental point of your own argument, the chisel is wider and less acute than the FS knife and most pointed knives.

What you got right is that the largest force (I presume that’s what you meant by violent hard stab above) “takes place at the (start of the) impact of the stab” (I added the emphasised words here to make things clear). Because the chisel blade is less acute the impact force is spread over a larger area making the pressure less. The blunter an object, the less able it is to pierce. The sharper an object the better it can pierce up until it suffers mechanical failure at which point it rapidly becomes a blunt object. The blunt object with more material in a given region is going to absorb the dynamic load better, less bending or rupture—but you have already excluded the “dagger tip is more fragile” argument from consideration. The large area of contact and the resulting considerable amount of armour material that has to be ruptured in a short amount of time makes for very large resistive forces (which the thicker tip is able to accommodate).

When a fine point like a dagger hits a target the pressure is huge because the impact force is concentrated in a tiny area. Because the target area is initially small the resistive forces are correspondingly small so it does “penetrate...nicely at first”. Writing that “once the tip is through...momentum is lost (and it is a) lot harder to force the rest of the knife through” has no meaningful basis in the argument: all knives are going to lose momentum, what matters is the rate. Allowing that what you mean is “the dagger loses momentum which is gained by the target”:

Change in momentum, called impulse, is proportional to the size of the force and the duration of the force. Small resistance from the target means small loss of momentum from the dagger. As momentum is the product of mass and velocity, the knife is not gaining or losing mass and the momentum loss is small the knife retains high velocity. This high velocity equates to high kinetic energy and as anyone who has studied even a little should know it is the energy that leads to penetration.

Yes, the dagger width does increase but it does so gradually. The increase in resistive forces is thus gradual and the loss in momentum likewise. The edges of the blade and the thickening of the spine serve to continue gradually widening the entry wound as required until the energy is spent.

With the chisel and its rapidly increasing impact area there is a very high upfront cost. A lot of work has to be done penetrating the armour leaving comparatively little energy for anything else.

The actual armour penetration ability of any particular knife or dagger is going to depend upon the armour it is attempting to penetrate, if the tip is mechanically strong enough to do work on the armour without failing, and what lies behind the armour, something which the chisel point fan boys fail to appreciate when touting the auspices of the chisel point and its ability to pierce a car’s sheet metal. It’s great if the tip pierces the armour, not so great if it stops moving before it can do any damage to the target, not so great if by being blunter it leads to momentum transfer to the target, losing energy by knocking the target back rather than penetrating the armour. (This is, of course, how armour works, spread the load so that the impact energy is dissipated over a larger area leading to less damage to the target.)

Momentum transfer is great for hammers and maces where you want as great an impulse as possible, not great for blades where you’re relying on penetration and this is less likely to be achieved with a wider, blunter tip. I’d love to see some rigorous tests of knife points versus free standing body armour with meat like material behind it, particularly those “stab proof” vests, to prove me either right or wrong, mostly because they would be interesting and partly because I’m confident of my understanding.

The very fact that the chisel point blade actually has a grind on both sides of the point to bring it to a fine edge should tell everyone with at least half a brain exactly what simple machine is being applied to do all the penetration work. If the “big tip/narrow waist, make a big hole at the start/ rest slips through unmolested” argument was correct all armour penetrating devices would consist of a broad, dull head with a narrower section following, exactly like driving a flat-head nail head first.
 
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Wow. Haven't been on here to post in a year. This thing is still here. "Tanto points are for penetration"? That is news to me. All 6 examples of traditional antique tantos I have as well as most I have seen have no guards. Ever actually stab mcstabby something hard with no guard on your knife? Have 3 or 4 guys you are fighting against? Stick one of them and they grab your hands with the weapon while the others cut you up like a fresh eel. Slash slash slash. The edge pushes aside flesh and bone in a slash/slice movement. A thin cross section tip would break off every time. Just makes sense. Dunno what that americanized tanto thing is except it IS easier to make than a proper convex point.
 
I see no "penetrating" advantage of the popularized "tanto" to a double-edged spearpoint from both my own usage and my primitive understanding of resistance. I've not used true tantos enough to speak to them given they aren't super common on production knives.

But I'm personally not a fan of the tantos seen on most western folding knives at all as I find them to make great knives less useful than their drop point, clip point, and spear point counters when it comes to actual usage one is going to use a knife for, as well as the longevity of the knife. Even with fixed blades, I cannot say I go around saying "man, that chick's car hood is such a $$$ ...I'll show that hood who's boss. Tanto time!" And because of that one punk car hood, I am going to do all of my other work that involves the tip holding the knife at an unusually uncomfortable angle, often having to place my neck in a weird position just so I can see what the actual tip itself is doing.

And I haven't been attacked by a steel drum since 1996, so the sharp decline in steel drum violent crime doesn't hold water with me either.
 
Wow. Haven't been on here to post in a year. This thing is still here. "Tanto points are for penetration"? That is news to me.....Stick one of them and they grab your hands with the weapon while the others cut you up like a fresh eel. Slash slash slash... Dunno what that americanized tanto thing is except it IS easier to make than a proper convex point.
:D ... Resurrecting those dead threads... I was following this thread for a long time. I wish my arrogant Russian friend from California wasn't banned so I can read more twisted views on "Americanized" things but unfortunately he's gone...
I completely agree with your "stab, stab.." scenario...
If you allow me, I like to share my point on the tanto thingy, without pushing it too much... :D Most of the blades I owe are tanto. I like to carry knife that was designed as a weapon, but I like it to be also functional and to allow me to use it for my edc task. Coming from probably 25 and so years I carry folders, without knowing too much of the facts how the "American" tanto was created, I am a strong believer that most people who are criticizing it never actually used one of those and never had chance to compare what one can do with it in regard to a normal folding knife with well pronounced belly or to the traditional Japanese tanto style.
The way I look at knifes is usually as a collection of elements that determine the intended by the designer function of this tool. One more time: It's a personal opinion but I think that the "American" tanto was designed to be a edc fixed blade knife with clearly "tactical", weapon like properties.
It combines the beef up element of the razor geometry, that gives you excellent slashing ability in the same time the thickness of the blade by the secondary bevel provides for heavier use. This part of the knife will slash, rip and chop easily and will still retain some decent sharpness in case you are out in the elements and have no ability to properly sharpen it.
In the same time, the tip between the razor edge and the triangular point is one of the most useful instruments for cutting stuff, especially placed on table, or on the ground, when your hands are straight and not much bent in elbows.
The interesting thing that nobody really pays attention so far in this thread is that when you use the knife in this way, you actually not touching the edge of the tip, with all the every day's tasks, you have a tip section of the edge completely preserved fot the time you need to stab something...
Perfect example of hard use on daily bases of a knife designed as a weapon with the Americanized tanto tip would be this picture, even it's not the "classic" American tanto outline you will find in most of the CS fixes and 2nd gen folders as Voyager i.e.

tymx.jpg


So this is what makes those in fact "westernized" not labeled by some "Americanized", new tanto breeds, so useful. I was using those for years, including really thick blades as CRKT's J. Williams's series of Hissatsu, Heiho and so on, I was heavily using my combo edges Voyager and BM 553, they all performed very well for edc tasks and at the same time I could use those for SD if needed.
When we're talking about SD and tanto point, I also don't understand why everybody are picking up on punching trough car hoods and so on... Anyway you're look at it, straight edge will penetrate almost the same as the classic Japanese curved edge (at the tip of the blade) with same thickness of the blade and same width of the blade... Assuming the thickness of the blade is the same, the grind angle of my CS Voyager at the tip part is exactly 5 degrees ( we are not talking about the chisel grind secondary bevel) and about 40 degrees in regard of the edge of the tip to the spine of the blade. From what I've seen this is very close if not the exact geometry of most "Americanized" tanto blades, from what I've stabbed I can guarantee you that it will not go trough most light body armors but will penetrate easily normal barrier material and because of the chisel nature of the tip it will inflict complicated and wide enough wound to be very effective in stabbing. In regard of momentum and impuls, once the barrier material absorbs part of the energy and the front portion of the tanto blade penetrates it, the rest of the pushing needs very little force, just as the dager type blade. It is true that a dager style blade will penetrate with less force, same goes for the modified Japanese tanto blades of the Hissatsu and Otanashy Noh Ken for example, but none of them can compare their wound channels with the one created by the Americanized tanto, so this is for the user to decide what would be the priority - intended placement of the stab or heavy damage during every stab... As someone that had formal training long time ago, I'd go with the later, I'm not sure how much of a stab placement I can do under the adrenaline rush, besides, even more natural, stabbing would not be my first choise of "move" I would pick, but again - I could be wrong...

I like a lot the mechanics of the stubbing, very well explained by Chriss C. I think it's worth the reading just so one would be clear how those things work, but still I don't think the original design of the so called Americanized tanto was intended primarily to stab, therefore - having this particular geometry of the tip, I believe, completely based on what I'm using my tanto blades - it was designed primarily to give you protected, strong, sharp point for stabbing, wide enough to create effective wound and at the same time to give you a very useful blade for edc tasks, with edge one can effectively use for SD too.

I'm curious to hear other opinions, if someone else observed the same things I did trough all those years using tanto (mostly folders)... They are not good of course for chopping tomatoes or pilling apples, but they do very good edc knifes for most other tasks and in the same time they are very effective edge weapon, IMHO.
 
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