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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Safer than what? Using twigs, like I suggested?As @Knives&Lint mentioned, I found-out about batoning many-many moons, before I even knew what it was called...and I was almost an instant convert.
For me and my particular "adventures", it was precise and efficient, and just a helluva' lot safer in my humble opinion.
Ah, good point there. When it's a real soaker, you're saying none of the sticks were dry enough to burn, even after whittling the outer layer down?Dry sticks, eh?
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Major storm, surrounding county flooded.
Whittling some wet bark wouldn't have cut it.
Instead, I used the knife in the pic to cut poles, and we set up a tarp structure (dollar store tarps, two of them).
My brother and I grabbed a bunch of wood, standing deadwood preferred.
Split the wood under the tarp structure, mainly with his RD-9.
When all wood was prepared, set up the firewood structure and got it going.![]()
A very good point. Applies more to camping than simulating a "stranded in the wild" situation.I buy wood generally for camping. Because there is no firewood at the camp site. Now I could buy logs and then buy kindling or I could baton logs and save some bucks.
Just yesterday, I got a portable wood stove going after it raining half the day without any split dry wood. Just twigs I found in the vicinity, with the bark whittled off. The smallest twigs, maybe 1/8 to 1/4" were soaked through; useless. Anything larger, with thicker bark and it was no problem. Full disclosure: I was using a Tumbleweed to start them, not dry shavings with ferro rod. Many would call that "cheating", just like buying wood is "cheating". :-DOtherwise trying to make a little portable wood stove work. Almost always needs batoned wood.
I don't think a ferro rod will light feather stick shavings. You need something finer, like the wood dust scraped off with the sharp 90° spine of a knife, dryer lint, etc.Yes it is a way to get dry wood when everything is wet. But you don't stop there, the next step is to featherstick that dry wood which is suitable for use with a ferro rod.
But i always check the weather and if it will rain i just stay at home. So i always use a foldable twig stove, no knife needed.
...but my question was why split wood at all? Just use twigs. It seems like the only REAL reason to baton is to get to dry wood in very wet conditions or when only the thicker wood is available. (ex. camping and have to bring purchased wood) The rest of the time, just use the right size branch or log for the fire.I baton for kindling only. Safer than an axe when the pieces are small.
I use an axe on the bigger stuff.
Safer than what? Using twigs, like I suggested?
Ah, good point there. When it's a real soaker, you're saying none of the sticks were dry enough to burn, even after whittling the outer layer down?
Where'd you get the cinder blocks out in the wilds like that?
A very good point. Applies more to camping than simulating a "stranded in the wild" situation.
Just yesterday, I got a portable wood stove going after it raining half the day without and split dry wood. Just twigs I found in the vicinity, with the bark whittled off. The smallest twigs, maybe 1/8 to 1/4" were soaked through; useless. Anything larger, with thicker bark and it was no problem. Full disclosure: I was using a Tumbleweed to start them, not dry shavings with ferro rod. Many would call that "cheating", just like buying wood is "cheating". :-D
I don't think a ferro rod will light feather stick shavings. You need something finer, like the wood dust scraped off with the sharp 90° spine of a knife, dryer lint, etc.
...but my question was why split wood at all? Just use twigs. It seems like the only REAL reason to baton is to get to dry wood in very wet conditions or when only the thicker wood is available. (ex. camping and have to bring purchased wood) The rest of the time, just use the right size branch or log for the fire.
Safer than what? Using twigs, like I suggested?
Ah, good point there. When it's a real soaker, you're saying none of the sticks were dry enough to burn, even after whittling the outer layer down?
Where'd you get the cinder blocks out in the wilds like that?
On a serious note, I find it‘s useful for making kindling for home stove or when camping. I know how to use an axe, but have more control and feel safer with a large knife.
It has nothing to do with survival/bushcraft skills (whatever those are). If you check out online batoning pictures or videos, almost all will use wood that was sawed before. Yet nobody ever shows you the saw they used because a chainsaw doesn’t fit the story.
Suddenly, I'm a much bigger fan of batoning!
Suddenly, I'm a much bigger fan of batoning!
That is one ENORMOUS woman, though!
Time for an unpopular opinion,It seems to be a "standard test" to a lot of reviewers.
When I go out to build a fire, I would rather just pick up smaller sticks than split larger wood with my knife. If it's wet, I whittle off the bark. I haven't had any problems yet.
What am I missing?
Isn't new at all.Time for an unpopular opinion,
"batoning" is a rather new phenomenon,
Just a question- why are you holding the brake on the saw? I run saws a lot, and have been fortunate to not need the kick-back brake feature except for a couple of times, but it is a nice safety feature.Saw from other time:
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And blurry, smoky picture of batonning a non-sawn log/chunk of wood that was laying around on the ground:
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Just a question- why are you holding the brake on the saw? I run saws a lot, and have been fortunate to not need the kick-back brake feature except for a couple of times, but it is a nice safety feature.