Why do you forge versus doing stock removal?

Makers who forge can make complex shapes that us stock-removal guys simply can't - at least, not without using up a whole heckuva lot more steel and time.

Marketing is important, too. It's worth noting that many customers just plain enjoy knowing that their knife was forged. Edge-packing and other myths have been pretty much dispelled (thanks, Will :rolleyes: :D), but there's always going to be a certain nostalgic/romantic/aesthetic appeal to hand-forged blades. And there's nothing wrong with that :)
 
Salem Straub said:
That is a subject that has been discussed to death. You will still find the occasional champion of the forged blade's superiority, but largely I think the consensus has become that a forged blade, if forged and heat treated right, is no better than the equal of a stock removal blade that has been heat treated right.

I am a blade forger, but I do it for many of the reasons stated above. I can use big stock, I can waste less material, I can make damascus. I love fire and smithing in general- my interest in forging extends beyond blades into general blacksmithing as well.

I often find that I can grind a given blade out of a blank annealed factory bar faster than forging the bevels and point, then having to grind it anyway. The correct thermal cycles necessary after forging a blade to make it ready for quenching add time and fuel as well. When it comes to integral knives, forging opens a great realm of possibility in design and is usually far less wasteful. To a metal smith or craftsman, forging is just another tool in the kit to be used when appropriate or advantageous.
Click to expand...

You couldn't have said it any better my friend!! :)
 
When I first started knifemaking, I only had access to a bench grinder. It was slow going. Because of that I started forging. My forge was my Dad's acetelene torch with a large tip, and my anvil was a large piece of steel. I would forge a blade close to shape and finish on the bench grinder.
Later I got a Square Wheel grinder and was amazed at how fast a 36 grit belt could remove steel. I found I didn't need to forge to shape anymore. I found I could stock remove 2-3 blades in the time it would take me to forge one, and then the forged blade would still need to be cleaned up on the grinder.
I do both forging and stock removal. I make my own damascus and forge W-2, 1095,1084, etc. Sometimes I have to forge to get the shape I want.
Forging takes me longer, so I need to price my forged blades higher than my stock removal blades.
Most of the knife buyers in my area don't care if the knife is forged or stock removal. For that reason, most of the knives I make are stock removal.
 
As a stock removal knifemaker I am confined to the size of stock I am using, however I am comfortable with what I have as a shop. Forge smiths have no such limitations and can heat and beat steel into any shape or form.
 
Though the subject has certainly been discussed to death, I always find myself reading through the replies (even though some are redundant, since the same folks answer the same way each time). I guess I do this because I want to get into forging, but just can't seem to convince myself to become that much of a nuissance to the neighborhood.

- Greg
 
You won't be a nuisance to the neighborhood Greg, just get a Fisher anvil. Great tools, and not loud at all. Or you can dampen the sound of a forged anvil quite a lot by several methods.

Hand forging does not make a lot of noise besides anvil ring. I think the only problem you might have is your wife will be VERY afraid now that you are going to burn the house down.
 
She does live in perpetual fear of fire... and germs... and strangers... and, well, you get the point. :)
 
There's two ways to shape a blade, one appeals to the engineers and machinists, and one appeals to the sculptors: You can work out a blueprint and then make that exact knife, or you can begin with a piece of blade steel and an idea and let it evolve.
I've had steel "come alive" as I forge for so long that it's like a dance- the finished product may or may not be what I originally pictured, but it has a balance and harmony that stands out. The changes that come about as you go through the standard steps of forging suggest the finished shape of the blade, and if you follow that it's an adventure.
That said, I do most of my knives by stock removal these days, but I'll say that some of my more successful designs have been suggested by "random" things like cutting a very rough blank on the band saw and saying, "Hm...what would it look like if I left that curve or hump instead of profiling it out?"
Most of us don't do that with every blade, but it's good practice to play a little, no?

Andy
 
elementfe said:
There's two ways to shape a blade, one appeals to the engineers and machinists, and one appeals to the sculptors:
Click to expand...
I was in tool, die and mold for almost 15yrs and went from .0002" tolerances to hitting hot steel with a hammer. I much prefer the hammer but my eyes still look at small details.
 
tryppyr said:
Though the subject has certainly been discussed to death, I always find myself reading through the replies (even though some are redundant, since the same folks answer the same way each time). I guess I do this because I want to get into forging, but just can't seem to convince myself to become that much of a nuissance to the neighborhood.

- Greg
Click to expand...

Do what Salem said, get a Quiet anvil, I live right in town, I have a 100lbs Vulcan anvil. Vulcan anvils are hit and miss, I got lucky, my was given to me brand new never used and works very well, it's really quiet, I have a neighbor that works nights, ask him if I was keeping him up with all the beating and banging he said he never hears it. And I'm forging only about 25feet from his front door. there are quiet anvils that don't give you the high pitch ting I would try to find one. I would steer away from Vulcan, yes I have one but like I said I got lucky.
 
Last edited:
Rick Marchand said:
I was in tool, die and mold for almost 15yrs and went from .0002" tolerances to hitting hot steel with a hammer. I much prefer the hammer but my eyes still look at small details.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that was too big a generalization: all my engineer buddies are closet artists of some kind! All education is good education, using it is the trick!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top