Why does the strop feel "sticky" with some knives? Also, pre-treatment?

[Omega Leather Works]

Two unrelated questions here.

I've noticed that with some knives I get a distinct pull, drag or sticky feeling when using any given strop versus another of my knives. The latest is my Contego. When I strop other knives with a similar bevel (contact with strop) it seems to glide along the surface, but the Benchmade almost feels like it's being pulled down into the strop.

It's a weird feeling, and I'm not sure I'm conveying exactly what I mean, but I hope that makes a little sense.

My other question regards strop prep. I've noticed that a couple of places include petroleum jelly with their strops for pre-treatment of the leather before loading with compound.

Do you guys do this? I'm going to be making a new strop and I'll include this step if it's advisable, but I've never seemed to need it before.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Very soft steels, or steels with minimal carbides (less wear-resistance) will be more aggressively abraded, and will sometimes seem to 'drag' more on hones or strops. Compound used, versus the steel, also makes a difference. The deeper the abrasive 'digs into' the steel, the more drag you'll feel (usually), although very soft steel with no carbides (like 1095) can be very aggressively abraded and feel deceptively buttery-smooth on diamond, at the same time.

More wear-resistant steels with heavy carbide content (especially vanadium carbides) will not abrade as easily on some abrasives, and therefore might tend to 'skate' a little more across them (as felt).

Some relatively low-carbon stainless steels with heavy chromium content can feel pretty 'gummy' on some stones and compounds, as well. For example, I notice this quite often with steels like 420HC/440A on diamond or coarser SiC or AlOx abrasives.

Edit:
I don't know if I'd like petroleum jelly as a pre-treatment for a strop, though I suppose some might like it, depending on the feedback created. I have used mineral oil in a similar way. Either one could be somewhat useful for holding onto more 'dusty' compounds, making them cling to the strop and keeping the dust down (including metal swarf), if it's an issue. I've massaged a little mineral oil into my leather belt, atop the green/white compound I use with it, because I'd previously noticed my sinuses getting irritated after stropping for a while. I could even 'smell' the steel occasionally, when stropping.


David

 

[HeavyHanded]

I've also noticed RC making a difference even with the same steel. Recently came across this while comparing an Old Hickory knife with one from TOPS - both 1095, but the TOPS at RC 58, the Old Hickory probably 54 or less. Huge difference in feel and how the edge responded to identical abrasives/pressure.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Aside from differences in the steel, may be overlooking some of the more obvious possibilities, like differences in blade or edge finish. On stones especially, a coarsely-finished edge bevel will create a lot more drag on subsequent finer hones, until the coarser scratch pattern is removed/erased by the finer. As that happens, honing suddenly feels a lot smoother. This could also be noticed on the strop, if paying attention. And bevel angles play into it as well, if the shoulder on a more obtuse V-bevel is dragging on the strop. This is part of the 'feel' for finding correct stropping angle, as the bevel will usually feel slicker when it's fully flush to the strop, and either the shoulder or the edge apex will create more drag, if the angle is a little too low or too high, respectively.


David

 

[Omega Leather Works]

What does it say about a strop if all of your knives start to feel sticky?

I started using it on more of my knives after reading your replies and it appears that, while a bit more pronounced on some steels/bevels/finishes, it's looking like it's happening, to some degree, across the board.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

What does it say about a strop if all of your knives start to feel sticky?

I started using it on more of my knives after reading your replies and it appears that, while a bit more pronounced on some steels/bevels/finishes, it's looking like it's happening, to some degree, across the board.

What compound are you using (and on what kind of strop)? And are you noticing any accumulation of compound (waxy stuff) on your blade? Some paste/oil-based compounds can be pretty sticky, especially shortly after they're applied, and before the suspension fully dries. DMT's Dia-Paste compounds will behave this way, for a day or two after application. This might also happen after 'conditioning' or pre-treating the strop with oil or other conditioning products, if they haven't dried completely. Sounds almost like the 'sticky' sensation is due to something being drawn up from the strop itself, if it's turning up on all your blades.


David

 

[OHALLUM]

I have had the same sensation, only sometimes on one side of the blade and not the other. Turned out to be a minute burr/wire edge dragging on the strop. Removed the burr and all was smooth. Could not feel the burr, but it showed up under magnification. YMMV.

Blessings,

Omar

 

[Omega Leather Works]

It must have gotten contaminated somehow.

It's just a regular old strop that I've used for a while with ChroOx. I've been wrapping it in a clean bandanna to protect my others from cross contamination. Not sure what happened.

 

[Jason B.]

Does it happen once the polish reaches a high level?

Is your strop dark and polished from stropping?

Strop prep can help when first applying compound to a fresh strop. They are usually a little dry and that can make it harder to spread the compound.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

It must have gotten contaminated somehow.

It's just a regular old strop that I've used for a while with ChroOx. I've been wrapping it in a clean bandanna to protect my others from cross contamination. Not sure what happened.

Might be worth cleaning the strop. Could be as simple as wiping it down with WD-40 on a paper towel, just enough to wipe away most of the black stuff (don't have to get it all). Let it dry for a while (setting it in the sunlight under a window for 2-3 hours works well). Depending on the type of green compound you've used, if it's based in wax or oil of some kind, it may just be getting a little too dirty or gummy. After it's dry, you might take a few passes with several blades over the leather, and see if the feel has changed. Then, re-apply compound (lightly) and check again.


David

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Does it happen once the polish reaches a high level?

Is your strop dark and polished from stropping?

Strop prep can help when first applying compound to a fresh strop. They are usually a little dry and that can make it harder to spread the compound.

It is dark and polished actually.

I cleaned it not that long ago, but I've been using it pretty heavily. One of the problems is that, while the leather is outstanding imo, it is black, which, for obvious reasons is not ideal.

I'll give it another cleaning and maybe toss it. I just bought some new flat board to make new strops since I'm building a compound collection.

One question. I always use a very thin layer of elmers wood glue between the leather and wood and that has worked well, but I've been wondering about adhesive spray. I bought a can but I'm not sure if it's a good thing to use for this application.

What do you think?

 

[blame it on god]

My kangaroo leather strop has far more drag than any other stop I have. I condition it, apply fresh compound and with it a few strokes the drag is back. It happens with all metals I use, But I use the roo strop as a final polishing before I switch to the nano cloth. So it already has a pretty high polish. I have learned to just live with it.

 

[OHALLUM]

Might be worth cleaning the strop. Could be as simple as wiping it down with WD-40 on a paper towel, just enough to wipe away most of the black stuff (don't have to get it all). Let it dry for a while (setting it in the sunlight under a window for 2-3 hours works well). Depending on the type of green compound you've used, if it's based in wax or oil of some kind, it may just be getting a little too dirty or gummy. After it's dry, you might take a few passes with several blades over the leather, and see if the feel has changed. Then, re-apply compound (lightly) and check again.
David

So, is the WD 40 the best way to clean a strop? I want to change to a different compound and wonder about how clean I need to get it before changing to another compound. Is this even advisable to do. I could get another strop, but if the present one will work with a good cleaning, why not.

Blessings,

Omar

 

[blame it on god]

I would think a well loaded strop has the abrasive embedded in the pores of the leather. You can always go rougher, but finer is iffy.

 

[Jason B.]

It is dark and polished actually.

I cleaned it not that long ago, but I've been using it pretty heavily. One of the problems is that, while the leather is outstanding imo, it is black, which, for obvious reasons is not ideal.

I'll give it another cleaning and maybe toss it. I just bought some new flat board to make new strops since I'm building a compound collection.

One question. I always use a very thin layer of elmers wood glue between the leather and wood and that has worked well, but I've been wondering about adhesive spray. I bought a can but I'm not sure if it's a good thing to use for this application.

What do you think?

When this happens with Chromium oxide use a dry bunched-up paper towel and rub the surface. It will refresh the surface and make it feel normal again.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

When this happens with Chromium oxide use a dry bunched-up paper towel and rub the surface. It will refresh the surface and make it feel normal again.

I think this one's done. The nap on my leather is very short and I think it's just worn smooth. It's probably great for certain things though.

Any comment on the spray adhesive.

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

I think this one's done. The nap on my leather is very short and I think it's just worn smooth.

I don't know it will work but why not try scrape it with a hacksaw blade to create new nap. I learned from HeavyHanded - to rough up paper & wood surfaces. I am too lazy to walk out to the garage to try leather - heheh.

edit: alrighty just tried, scraped leather with hacksaw will create new nap. I don't know how durable nap will be but it felt sturdy.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I don't know it will work but why not try scrape it with a hacksaw blade to create new nap. I learned from HeavyHanded - to rough up paper & wood surfaces. I am too lazy to walk out to the garage to try leather - heheh.

edit: alrighty just tried, scraped leather with hacksaw will create new nap. I don't know how durable nap will be but it felt sturdy.

Worth a shot. I don't have a hacksaw, but I do have a lot of others. I'm sure I can find something that will work.

It may just tear, but I'm gonna try it.

 

[HeavyHanded]

Worth a shot. I don't have a hacksaw, but I do have a lot of others. I'm sure I can find something that will work.

It may just tear, but I'm gonna try it.

Even the sharp corner of a knife spine or similar will work OK - roughing with a piece of 24 or 32 TPI hacksaw works better if available. Did you say your strop is black leather? You'll have an even harder time telling what's going on with it. Just my 2c, unless the strop is used very little you'll want to scrape it often. There's a big difference in how well compound works once it begins to load up to any extent. Like all polishing/grinding applications, it slows to a crawl once it becomes swamped by swarf and even the quality of how the abrasive bites on steel will diminish somewhat.

One of the forum members uses paper wrapped around a stone for stropping with compound, claims it eliminates inconsistencies caused by texture changes in the leather from treatment, cleaning, or scraping, and can be swapped out the minute it loads up. If your strop tears it might be as good a time as any to give that a try...

HH

 

[Jason B.]

Rubber cement is what I use.

Nap? Like you rough-up the leather? FYI, that hurts you more than helps you.