Why I bought a Northridge grinder

Extremely persuasive for the Northridge, thank you for taking the time to lay it out so well. I’m ready to order a premium quality 2X72 and the TW-90 and Northridge were two of my top three contenders. May I ask what led you to exclude the Reeder offering as much of that machine is made in-house and seems to check off quite a few boxes you mentioned were important to you. I’ve spoken with the elder Mr. Reeder and precision and customer service seem to be at high levels. Just curious, thank you.
 
MuyLocoNC said:
Extremely persuasive for the Northridge, thank you for taking the time to lay it out so well. I’m ready to order a premium quality 2X72 and the TW-90 and Northridge were two of my top three contenders. May I ask what led you to exclude the Reeder offering as much of that machine is made in-house and seems to check off quite a few boxes you mentioned were important to you. I’ve spoken with the elder Mr. Reeder and precision and customer service seem to be at high levels. Just curious, thank you.
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Reeder didn’t make my my cut for a variety of reasons.

-spring based tensioning. At this stage of the game, this is likely the least desirable method. Both the TW90 and Northridge Pro Pack use a ratcheting tension system. If you’ve never used one, it would be easy to dismiss this feature. Once you have, you’ll likely never be willing to go without it.
-3600 rpm motors instead of 1750rpm motors frequency doubled in the vfd. Do a quick search on this here, and you’ll see why the latter is the better way of doing it.
-looks like a lot of hardware store bolts used. Perhaps I’m wrong, but it sure does look like the same-old, same-old. This machine is in the same price range as the other two, yet the other two don’t use them. Pivot bushing for the tilt function is a perfect example of what I’m talking about. Watch my video again, if you want to see how Northridge improves on this. Reeder uses what appear to be hardware store bolts, phosphor bronze washers, and nylock nuts.


These are just the obvious points. There are a few others, but frankly the first one on that list is enough to strike it, in my book.

I’m not trying to kick sand at these guys, btw, I’m just trying to answer your question as best as I can. At first glance, that machine is still a giant leap forward from my last grinder, and I’m certain that it’s well made and would serve a maker well. But, and here’s the big ‘but’... if the money is the same, it needs to at least meet the Northridge, and it doesn’t.


I’m sure they’re good people - this isn’t a personal attack on either them or their grinder. Fact is, most of the guys in this game are likely good people (well, there’s at least one I can think of that I’d say isn’t). I genuinely tried to buy the machine based on its features and quality of construction. As much as I want to tell you that the TW90 was a close second, it wasn’t. It was just the only other grinder to make my cut. I went with the Northridge machine because I’m confident that it’s the better machine. Now, a few months into it, my personal experiences have done nothing but reinforce my decision. I couldn’t be more satisfied.
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Reeder didn’t make my my cut for a variety of reasons.

-spring based tensioning. At this stage of the game, this is likely the least desirable method. Both the TW90 and Northridge Pro Pack use a ratcheting tension system. If you’ve never used one, it would be easy to dismiss this feature. Once you have, you’ll likely never be willing to go without it.
-3600 rpm motors instead of 1750rpm motors frequency doubled in the vfd. Do a quick search on this here, and you’ll see why the latter is the better way of doing it.
-looks like a lot of hardware store bolts used. Perhaps I’m wrong, but it sure does look like the same-old, same-old. This machine is in the same price range as the other two, yet the other two don’t use them. Pivot bushing for the tilt function is a perfect example of what I’m talking about. Watch my video again, if you want to see how Northridge improves on this. Reeder uses what appear to be hardware store bolts, phosphor bronze washers, and nylock nuts.


These are just the obvious points. There are a few others, but frankly the first one on that list is enough to strike it, in my book.

I’m not trying to kick sand at these guys, btw, I’m just trying to answer your question as best as I can. At first glance, that machine is still a giant leap forward from my last grinder, and I’m certain that it’s well made and would serve a maker well. But, and here’s the big ‘but’... if the money is the same, it needs to at least meet the Northridge, and it doesn’t.


I’m sure they’re good people - this isn’t a personal attack on either them or their grinder. Fact is, most of the guys in this game are likely good people (well, there’s at least one I can think of that I’d say isn’t). I genuinely tried to buy the machine based on its features and quality of construction. As much as I want to tell you that the TW90 was a close second, it wasn’t. It was just the only other grinder to make my cut. I went with the Northridge machine because I’m confident that it’s the better machine. Now, a few months into it, my personal experiences have done nothing but reinforce my decision. I couldn’t be more satisfied.
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I like how you explain in video detail which can not be seen , devil is in detail :thumbsup: I can see one thing that maybe can be improved .This grinder have ratcheting tension system and as i can see common solution for tracking wheel which will be up and down movement of wheel to track belt .I found that /at least on my grinder with ratchet tension / can be problem when I want /already tight running belt/ to move left of flat platen or right of flat platen ....In one case it further tightens belt which is not good and in other way it loose belt which again is not good ......
 
Natlek said:
I like how you explain in video detail which can not be seen , devil is in detail :thumbsup: I can see one thing that maybe can be improved .This grinder have ratcheting tension system and as i can see common solution for tracking wheel which will be up and down movement of wheel to track belt .I found that /at least on my grinder with ratchet tension / can be problem when I want /already tight running belt/ to move left of flat platen or right of flat platen ....In one case it further tightens belt which is not good and in other way it loose belt which again is not good ......
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That's a good observation - I know that happened on my previous grinder, and depending upon which attachment I was using , the effect could be less or more. I haven't noticed a similar behavior to that with the Northridge, but it's obviously possible. I'll check tomorrow. One point of not, however - this machine requires TINY movements to influence tracking. Barely a twist will drift the belt .250" in one direction or another. That wasn't the case with my last grinder, and just as you're implying, tension influenced it. Drifting to the left, which increased tension, meant less drift, while drifting right, reducing tension meant a lot more drift for the same amount of tracking adjustment.
 
Matthew Gregory said:
That's a good observation - I know that happened on my previous grinder, and depending upon which attachment I was using , the effect could be less or more. I haven't noticed a similar behavior to that with the Northridge, but it's obviously possible. I'll check tomorrow. One point of not, however - this machine requires TINY movements to influence tracking. Barely a twist will drift the belt .250" in one direction or another. That wasn't the case with my last grinder, and just as you're implying, tension influenced it. Drifting to the left, which increased tension, meant less drift, while drifting right, reducing tension meant a lot more drift for the same amount of tracking adjustment.
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Well , I overlooked that they used crowned 4” x 2-1/2” tracking wheels. With that size of tracking wheel and with very precise workmanship of the whole grinder it will be barely noticeable I think .
 
I appreciate you taking the time to reply, I’m placing my order for the Pro Package today. Since you’ve taken so much care in your choice of grinder, may I pick your brain on three accessories?

I’m working with a little more than $5k for this order and was wondering if you would stick with Northridge for the Contact wheel/s (which sizes would you consider a necessity), small wheel attachment (I don’t believe theirs has the deflector wheels that decrease the incoming angle of the belt, seems like a nice feature to have) and rotary platen (I assume this is what they’re calling their slack belt platen, possibly not).

I’m going to talk to them about this, but I would value your opinion before jumping in. The quality of their grinder would lead me to believe their accessories are high quality, but there is always the possibility that someone has specific offerings that could be superior.
 
What are the advantages of a gas ratcheting piston vs a spring? Mine uses a spring - never used the other. But one advantage to a spring that I can see is that it never goes bad.
 
MuyLocoNC said:
I appreciate you taking the time to reply, I’m placing my order for the Pro Package today. Since you’ve taken so much care in your choice of grinder, may I pick your brain on three accessories?

I’m working with a little more than $5k for this order and was wondering if you would stick with Northridge for the Contact wheel/s (which sizes would you consider a necessity), small wheel attachment (I don’t believe theirs has the deflector wheels that decrease the incoming angle of the belt, seems like a nice feature to have) and rotary platen (I assume this is what they’re calling their slack belt platen, possibly not).

I’m going to talk to them about this, but I would value your opinion before jumping in. The quality of their grinder would lead me to believe their accessories are high quality, but there is always the possibility that someone has specific offerings that could be superior.
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Many of those things are questions only you can answer, especially about contact wheels. That’s a very personal thing. What used to be the de facto standard was 8”, but it seems a lot of guys are running 10”. Can’t really go wrong with either, and if you’re anything like me, you’ll probably end up with both. Talk to them about how you’re going to use it and maybe they can offer you a little better guidance. :thumbsup:
 
Natlek said:
Well , I overlooked that they used crowned 4” x 2-1/2” tracking wheels. With that size of tracking wheel and with very precise workmanship of the whole grinder it will be barely noticeable I think .
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After testing several belts, at several tensions, on both my platen and contact wheel, I can tell you that the effect is there, but doesn’t have enough of an impact to notice in use. Perhaps a more sensitive attachment may yield different results, but this is already entirely different from my previous machine.
 
razor-edge-knives said:
What are the advantages of a gas ratcheting piston vs a spring? Mine uses a spring - never used the other. But one advantage to a spring that I can see is that it never goes bad.
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Is there a comma missing in there, bud? Did you mean to say ‘gas, ratcheting, and spring’?

Gas struts offer more consistent tension rates, and are offered in a variety of forces. I was running a 60-pounder on my last machine. Spring varies in tension according to how compressed it is.

Ratcheting is a totally different animal. It can offer all of the variations of the other two, and less of both at the same time and still provide consistent tracking (if the machine is dialed in right).
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Is there a comma missing in there, bud? Did you mean to say ‘gas, ratcheting, and spring’?

Gas struts offer more consistent tension rates, and are offered in a variety of forces. I was running a 60-pounder on my last machine. Spring varies in tension according to how compressed it is.

Ratcheting is a totally different animal. It can offer all of the variations of the other two, and less of both at the same time and still provide consistent tracking (if the machine is dialed in right).
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Gotcha sorry was confused haha, thanks for clarifying!
 
Agreed, put in the order today. Got the 10” Contact wheel, Baldor motor, all the work rests and an extra tool arm. Amazingly, they said it would ship in about a week. Minus the R.A.T. Arm and rest, as he is redesigning and improving it over the next few weeks. Thanks for the guidance, and as described, they were very helpful and professional.
 
I have to say I watch these threads with jealousy. I am still using a first-gen KMG-1 with a three drive pulley 2hp farm duty motor! I have a platen, a huge contact wheel, small wheel and such but I've always wanted VFD and some of these new features! Thanks for all the info in case I ever get a little chunk of money to upgrade :)
 
Upgrade what you have for about $300-$500 depending on who you get your motor/VFD from. If you ever get a Northridge or other upgraded grinder either have two belt grinders (a very nice shop advantage), or you can sell the KMG chassis with the old motor and use the motor/VFD package for a disc grinder.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Upgrade what you have for about $300-$500 depending on who you get your motor/VFD from. If you ever get a Northridge or other upgraded grinder either have two belt grinders (a very nice shop advantage), or you can sell the KMG chassis with the old motor and use the motor/VFD package for a disc grinder.
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This is probably the route I'll take. I typically have a "if its not broken don't fit it" rule for machinery but when I saw the entire grinder flip to horizontal while running super slow speed from the VFD my heart fluttered
 
David Schott said:
I have to say I watch these threads with jealousy. I am still using a first-gen KMG-1 with a three drive pulley 2hp farm duty motor! I have a platen, a huge contact wheel, small wheel and such but I've always wanted VFD and some of these new features! Thanks for all the info in case I ever get a little chunk of money to upgrade :)
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Hey Dave! Long time no see. Kind of think the last time was in Indian George's backyard. :eek:


Generations of makers worked with far crummier machines. I distinctly remember being berated by David Broadwell ages ago because I was complaining about my 'JEEEEEEEEEEEZUZZZZ fast' Wilton. He still uses them, if I'm not mistaken. Certainly hasn't held him back...


Nonetheless, we're talking about dropping a pile of scratch on a new machine. For many guys, it might be their first machine, and they want to do it once. If you're at that price point, it only makes sense to do the research.


For myself, I'm sure it's clear in this thread - I'm glad I upgraded. Every time I step in front of it, it reinforces my decision.
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Hey Dave! Long time no see. Kind of think the last time was in Indian George's backyard. :eek:


Generations of makers worked with far crummier machines. I distinctly remember being berated by David Broadwell ages ago because I was complaining about my 'JEEEEEEEEEEEZUZZZZ fast' Wilton. He still uses them, if I'm not mistaken. Certainly hasn't held him back...


Nonetheless, we're talking about dropping a pile of scratch on a new machine. For many guys, it might be their first machine, and they want to do it once. If you're at that price point, it only makes sense to do the research.


For myself, I'm sure it's clear in this thread - I'm glad I upgraded. Every time I step in front of it, it reinforces my decision.
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Hey long time no see is right! We were so young then, haha! I took a very serious break when life got very complicated and I had two kids. The second is now walking so I'm getting more shop time. I've been making for myself and friends and a few orders over the years but nothing too serious. I'm getting more serious about slipjoints right now..what a bitch they are for looking so simple!

I made and sold knives on the 1X30 before other grinders. They weren't "worse" knives because I was using a 1X30, its because I was a newer maker :)

Loved your video....I've had my KMG for about 15 years now and literally havent done a thing to it. If you think about it, the grinder is absolutely the most important tool in the shop in terms of something you come in contact with as a maker. I've spent thousands of hours standing in front of it over those years. I've turned thousands of dollars of belts, steel and materials into dust on it and I've made a decent amount of money off it. What's $2500 spread across 15 years? 160$ a year? 13$ a month? I try to think of it like guns. Guns are expensive but if you want to actually get good with them or shoot them regularly, you're gonna burn through 5x their price in ammo very quickly.

Initial investments are very tough across the board. If someone's thinking about one of these, they should be pretty sure they love this hobby and in that light, the long term cost of one doesnt seem so bad. I paid $450 for my KMG and its motor 15 years ago and had it mounted on an MDF desk in the spare bedroom of my apartment. I bet I could sell it for more than that today :)
 
David Schott said:
Hey long time no see is right! We were so young then, haha! I took a very serious break when life got very complicated and I had two kids. The second is now walking so I'm getting more shop time. I've been making for myself and friends and a few orders over the years but nothing too serious. I'm getting more serious about slipjoints right now..what a bitch they are for looking so simple!

I made and sold knives on the 1X30 before other grinders. They weren't "worse" knives because I was using a 1X30, its because I was a newer maker :)

Loved your video....I've had my KMG for about 15 years now and literally havent done a thing to it. If you think about it, the grinder is absolutely the most important tool in the shop in terms of something you come in contact with as a maker. I've spent thousands of hours standing in front of it over those years. I've turned thousands of dollars of belts, steel and materials into dust on it and I've made a decent amount of money off it. What's $2500 spread across 15 years? 160$ a year? 13$ a month? I try to think of it like guns. Guns are expensive but if you want to actually get good with them or shoot them regularly, you're gonna burn through 5x their price in ammo very quickly.

Initial investments are very tough across the board. If someone's thinking about one of these, they should be pretty sure they love this hobby and in that light, the long term cost of one doesnt seem so bad. I paid $450 for my KMG and its motor 15 years ago and had it mounted on an MDF desk in the spare bedroom of my apartment. I bet I could sell it for more than that today :)
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Every single one of your observations is spot-on, bud. Totally agree.




...April 2006. I'm certain that you still look EXACTLY like this. ;)


DSC00021%2029-XL.jpg
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Every single one of your observations is spot-on, bud. Totally agree.




...April 2006. I'm certain that you still look EXACTLY like this. ;)


DSC00021%2029-XL.jpg
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HAH!

I still use that knife camping :P Look at my shit technique here...that V is supposed to be wide enough to end at the BOTTOM of the board!
 
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