Why *not* a six inch serrated tomato knife?

I knew this would get more complicated 😊. I *think* the standard terminology on mills is that the X axis is side to side (the long dimension of the table), Y is away from and towards the operator, and Z is up and down, right?

I am talking about variation in the y dimension at the end of each cut ... but not randomly .. rather following a pattern. The long dimension of the blade was oriented in the x dimension. For each cut, the x and z traverses were locked, so was only cutting in the y dimension.

The blade edge is NOT straight - i purposefully gave it some belly from heel to tip. So ... if you follow the geometry when the blade is angled forward (toward tne operator) by 25 degrees, the y coordinate of the edge varies as you traverse from heel to tip . So you cant use a fixed y coordinate on a dro to establish the depth of cut... which is why i am thinking a reasonable approach is to scribe a line to establish the length of each serration...

I am truly a novice with the mill, but i was careful to establish a reference zero on my y index at the end of my first cut. The backlash was taken out at that point, and i was also careful to take out the backlash at the beginning of each cut. I know that is not as good as a dro, but am led to understand that approach should be good to a mil or so (presuming everything is trammed well enough - which i dont claim in my case 😊)
 
I understand now, thanks for the clarification. The scribe line is the way to go with a curved edge, I think. With the DRO, you could zero it when you first hit the edge and then mill to a consistent depth from there, but I think that's too much hassle and no more accurate than the scribe line. What the DRO will do for you, though, is get the spacing in the x-direction consistent without having to count turns. The way I read your previous post was that you only advanced by six turns instead of seven on the x-axis between one of the serrations, that's why I mentioned the DRO.
 
Will your mill spin fast enough to use , say a chain saw sharpening or Dremel stone? You could grind the serrations post heat treat grinding and possibly limit the chattering. Using a scribed line following the blade profile is what I would do. The spacing layout is the hard part, to me.. My daughter uses a Rada tomato slicer, cheap, but rips through them. It's really thin.
 
My mill tops out around 2,800 rpm. I definitely want to do the serrations post HT when I make a bread knife and plan to grind the serrations using my small wheel attachment. I'll keep the chain saw stone on the mill in mind though in case I cannot get good results on the grinder.
 
along the way I tried the dremel diamond chain saw tool on one of my older knives. It just chewed it up and made it look awful. granted I did it by hand, but the stone was just way too coarse.
 
Hubert S. said:
My mill tops out around 2,800 rpm. I definitely want to do the serrations post HT when I make a bread knife and plan to grind the serrations using my small wheel attachment. I'll keep the chain saw stone on the mill in mind though in case I cannot get good results on the grinder.
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Keep us/me posted on your bread knife?? I have in mind, in the somewhat near future, trying to make a bread knife.... (what I am doing on this smaller blade is somewhat of a trial run to see whether a similar approach can be taken on a bread knife...)
 
Cushing H. said:
Keep us/me posted on your bread knife?? I have in mind, in the somewhat near future, trying to make a bread knife.... (what I am doing on this smaller blade is somewhat of a trial run to see whether a similar approach can be taken on a bread knife...)
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I will definitely post about my results, but I am not sure if it will be in the near future. Hoping to get one done by mid April.
 
Hubert S. said:
I will definitely post about my results, but I am not sure if it will be in the near future. Hoping to get one done by mid April.
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Hah! I am finding (or coming to accept) that my own turnaround time is closer to a year… just too much to get done. Better than being bored I guess…
 
Cushing H. said:
So what is he doing ... using the radiused edge on a flat platen?
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No, if you look carefully, it looks like another attachment altogether where you attach a rod like platen and a work table for the angle. Looks like something that one could weld together quite fast (or buy the attachment only).
 
I just realised that the added befit is, that you could have one angle for the primary bevel and another for the second (sharpening).
 
FredyCro said:
I just realised that the added befit is, that you could have one angle for the primary bevel and another for the second (sharpening).
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Are the serrations normally sharpened with a second bevel? I thought they were just ground in.

Unrelated questions: Is "händisch" an Austrian word (it's on one of the slides in the video)? I don't recall ever hearing that word used to mean manually and it sounds pretty odd to me.
 
Hubert S. said:
Are the serrations normally sharpened with a second bevel? I thought they were just ground in.

Unrelated questions: Is "händisch" an Austrian word (it's on one of the slides in the video)? I don't recall ever hearing that word used to mean manually and it sounds pretty odd to me.
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Some of the serrations I have seen look like they have a secondary bevel, but maybe its just an optical illusion. I am by no means an expert.

Yeah, händisch is German. The maker of the grinder is Austrian and i just disovered him on Insta yesterday. Looks like he has some good ideas, the grinder looks really cool.
 
FredyCro said:
No, if you look carefully, it looks like another attachment altogether where you attach a rod like platen and a work table for the angle. Looks like something that one could weld together quite fast (or buy the attachment only).
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It looks like a good grinder, but that attachment............... is BS ? Why I would not do that on horizontal grinder with small wheel attachment ? With right radius wheel you can do whatever kind of serration you want ? I am missing something ?
 
Natlek said:
It looks like a good grinder, but that attachment............... is BS ? Why I would not do that on horizontal grinder with small wheel attachment ? With right radius wheel you can do whatever kind of serration you want ? I am missing something ?
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You could if you have finished that attachment where the bearings are not in the way. :)
 
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