Why *not* a six inch serrated tomato knife?

FredyCro said:
You could if you have finished that attachment where the bearings are not in the way. :)
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You think that there is not enough room to do that ? It is not wide blade ? It is a bread knife ?
This would work for sure ;)
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FredyCro said:
Some of the serrations I have seen look like they have a secondary bevel, but maybe its just an optical illusion. I am by no means an expert.

Yeah, händisch is German. The maker of the grinder is Austrian and i just disovered him on Insta yesterday. Looks like he has some good ideas, the grinder looks really cool.
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The knives I've looked at don't have a secondary bevel in the serrations, but they are pretty cheap knives. I'll try to just grind the serrations in when I make one and then decide whether it needs a secondary bevel.

Google thinks händisch is a German word, but I did some more checking and the Pons dictionary website says it is colloquial Austrian and Swiss. I've never heard it, but I've been on the other side of the Atlantic for a while now.
 
Natlek said:
You think that there is not enough room to do that ? It is not wide blade ? It is a bread knife ?
This would work for sure ;)
ON4jgAq.jpg
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My smallest roll is 12 mm, but freehanding the angle would be hard (and dangerous between two bearings). My smallest roll with OD bigger then the bearings is 30mm. The serrations would be to wide i think.
 
FredyCro said:
My smallest roll is 12 mm, but freehanding the angle would be hard (and dangerous between two bearings). My smallest roll with OD bigger then the bearings is 30mm. The serrations would be to wide i think.
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You have 50 mm clean space to grind serrations on that 12mm. roll , if blade is 30mm wide /which is more then normal bread knife / where is problem ?
PS > Freehanding ?? you start to look like American .Use jig for serration what s wrong with that ?
 
So .... that blade that I had machined slots into came back from HT .... and I of course could not resist working on the grind asap. I continue to really like working with 26C3 - it grinds wonderfully. As planned I did a single sided bevel, and the scallops appeared just as planned. I took the grind to 100 micron gator (I actually kind of like that finish), but had a little trouble getting the flat on the beveled side really uniform - I am a little hesitant to bring it back down to 120 grit and fiddle with the flat for fear of really messing things up .... so since this is for me I might just try to blend it with scotch bright and call it a day. One thing to note is that my *plan* was to use 3/8" ceramic rod to clean up the scallops (which still retain some scale). The rod easily got rid of the burr on the edge of the scallop ..... but I think it would take some more rather tedious work to really get the scale out of there. My plan will be to put a "micro" bevel on the flat side to really bring out the edge .... but for now it is sharp enough to have taken a nick into my left thumb when I was not paying attention to where the edge is. It obviously does not have a handle yet (I am thinking of a red one...), but I'm cutting tomatoes for dinner tonight, so I will give it a try! Overall, I think this approach to scalloped edges has some promise...

(aside: I showed this to my wife, and her first response was "isnt it a little long for a tomato knife?". Go figure :)
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Oh, wait. I was going to put a urasuki on the back side of this blade. Oh well, back to the grinder I go (maybe I will fix that flat above the shinogi after all). That is not going to stop me from trying it on tomatoes tonight though!!!!
 
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Well ... that was a big fail. Technically the blade worked .. no problem at all with cutting in to tomatoes, *but* the large serrations and distance between serrations created, instead of a nice clean cutting action, created more of a "chunk, chunk chunk" cutting action as each leading edge of a serration cut into the skin. Very uncomfortable feel, and a pretty ragged resulting cut. I think the approach would work well for a bread knife, but *not* for tomatoes. Ithink for this to work you would need much smaller serrations.

I have another blade in the same profile, but no serrations milled in to it. I think ill try grinding it with a traditional double bevel, and sharpen with a really rough grit ... maybe 120?
 
Sorry to hear that, I guessed it would be that way but i didnt want to rain on your parade before you try it out. I think machining the serrations is an overkill, there are couple of guys on yt doing it with a small wheel attachment. If you include a jig and it is a straight blafe it is quite bulletproof concept. One idea to try save your blade: raise the grind, go thinner and do one more serration in the middle of your tooth. Use grinding stones, sanding drums or diamond wheels or a combination of all of them on dremel.
 
Cushing H. said:
Well ... that was a big fail. Technically the blade worked .. no problem at all with cutting in to tomatoes, *but* the large serrations and distance between serrations created, instead of a nice clean cutting action, created more of a "chunk, chunk chunk" cutting action as each leading edge of a serration cut into the skin. Very uncomfortable feel, and a pretty ragged resulting cut. I think the approach would work well for a bread knife, but *not* for tomatoes. Ithink for this to work you would need much smaller serrations.

I have another blade in the same profile, but no serrations milled in to it. I think ill try grinding it with a traditional double bevel, and sharpen with a really rough grit ... maybe 120?
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On the other blade you could try a combination of diamond burrs and cutting wheels. A while back some did a serrations knife with combination of very small serrations made with a small round file and a cuts with a dremel disc.
 
FredyCro said:
Sorry to hear that, I guessed it would be that way but i didnt want to rain on your parade before you try it out. I think machining the serrations is an overkill, there are couple of guys on yt doing it with a small wheel attachment. If you include a jig and it is a straight blafe it is quite bulletproof concept. One idea to try save your blade: raise the grind, go thinner and do one more serration in the middle of your tooth. Use grinding stones, sanding drums or diamond wheels or a combination of all of them on dremel.
Click to expand...
Thats ok... i only ever thought of this as something of an experiment.

I might be tempted to try the small wheel approach if i could tilt my grinder horizontal (giving a vertical small wheel) ... but i cant do that ... and i cant envision doing anywhere near a decent job without a vertically oriented wheel, and a horizontal work rest.
 
Cushing H. said:
Thats ok... i only ever thought of this as something of an experiment.

I might be tempted to try the small wheel approach if i could tilt my grinder horizontal (giving a vertical small wheel) ... but i cant do that ... and i cant envision doing anywhere near a decent job without a vertically oriented wheel, and a horizontal work rest.
Click to expand...
Sanding drum on a drill press or filing in the serrations before hardening.
 
Cushing H. said:
So .... that blade that I had machined slots into came back from HT .... and I of course could not resist working on the grind asap. I continue to really like working with 26C3 - it grinds wonderfully. As planned I did a single sided bevel, and the scallops appeared just as planned. I took the grind to 100 micron gator (I actually kind of like that finish), but had a little trouble getting the flat on the beveled side really uniform - I am a little hesitant to bring it back down to 120 grit and fiddle with the flat for fear of really messing things up .... so since this is for me I might just try to blend it with scotch bright and call it a day. One thing to note is that my *plan* was to use 3/8" ceramic rod to clean up the scallops (which still retain some scale). The rod easily got rid of the burr on the edge of the scallop ..... but I think it would take some more rather tedious work to really get the scale out of there. My plan will be to put a "micro" bevel on the flat side to really bring out the edge .... but for now it is sharp enough to have taken a nick into my left thumb when I was not paying attention to where the edge is. It obviously does not have a handle yet (I am thinking of a red one...), but I'm cutting tomatoes for dinner tonight, so I will give it a try! Overall, I think this approach to scalloped edges has some promise...

(aside: I showed this to my wife, and her first response was "isnt it a little long for a tomato knife?". Go figure :)
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View attachment 1778349
Click to expand...
You can practice on this one .......................

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