Why Relentless knife for survival

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The pictures didn't sell me. What's particularly "survival" about these cutting tools? :confused:

The top one seems to have the holes on it for lashing the knife onto a stick and making a spear. Couldn't one use the knife to make the stick into a spear? Now you got two tools and you don't throw your survival knife away at something that could run away with your survival knife stuck in it.

And is that a finger choil or sharpening choil on the top one? If its a finger choil and you choke up on it, where does your thumb go?

As a representative of a company promoting his knives...sell me! :thumbup:
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I'm scratching my head at the idea of hammer forging a PM steel...

It has happened. A certain Master Smith on here posted:

Henckles does drop forge their blades. It saves a MAJOR amount of steel from becoming grinding dust. Big expense savings.

I have forged some satinless. I still do forged CMP3V, mainly because of the novelty, and that few others will. The problem with forging stainless steels is that most are air hardening, and do not move easily under the hammer. They are "red-hard". If you allow the temperature to get high enough to austenitize the steel ( the temp where the ally elements are in solution and will form martensite when cooled rapidly enough), it will try to harden once it cools, and if forging is performed when this happens, the steel usually crumbles, or at least cracks. So the steel needs to be kept above the austenitizing temp ( high enough to give a window of time to forge before it begins to harden), or below it so it won't air harden to the dergee that it will crack. So, it becomes more trouble than it is worth since little if any performace benefit is obtained. If the forging isn't done properly, it is detrimental to the steel.

Forging produces a lot of stress in teh steel as well. To remove forging stress, most steels are normalized and annealed. Annealing stainless steels takes several hours and the temperature must be closely monitored to do a proper job. Most forgers don't have a digital furnace, so again, it becomes more trouble than it is worth.

I have forged ATS-34 and 440c, and it just isn't worth the time to me. I would rather do stock removal with S30V if a custoemr wants stainless steel.
 
by: Haze:You need to pay for a knife makers membership before you even try spaming us here with anything you make.

Sorry if you consider answering these posts as spam. I'm not attempting to sell anything here.
I think was a member for many years, and maybe before there was a fee. Not sure on that.

But I will pay.....LOL.
 
I have no dog in this fight. But after reading this thread. it's painfully obvious.( to me )
It's a good thing we have a large pool of knife makers to choose from...
we can be a cruel,unsympathetic lot, when describing each other's favored cutting tools.
Carry On.
 
Of course everyone is entitled to their opinion, but since most folks on this thread are offering their opinions without actually having one of these knives, I figured I'd chime in. I have a knife from relentless that was custom made for me based on an existing design of theirs. I use it weekly as a multipurpose tool for camping, hiking, ice hiking / climbing. I spend the winters hiking frozen riverbeds and waterfalls and the summers in the same areas hiking trails and through the rivers. I'm up to my waist in water and so is the knife during the summer and its used in ice and snow in the winter. I explained all of this to relentless while in the design process and what I received was a tank of a knife built to my specs. I use it to chop wood. I've used it to clear 3 - 6 inch thick branches of a tree that closed on of our more difficult trails after Irene that the dept of conservation couldnt get too with a chain saw. I regularly use the double butterfly serrations to saw and it works so well, I don't carry an ax or a saw with me. I still carry a multitool for the pliers, but rarely use it unless adjusting crampons. I've even accidentally rammed the tip into rock (not a rock, but solid rock) when driving it into some ice to keep from sliding down some ice in a tough spot before I could rope in. I knew where the rock area was, but I was reacting without thinking because I didn't want to get wet when it was that cold. It wasn't graceful and it wasn't ideal, but the result was that i stopped moving. I had a tiny burr on the tip that you could not see, but i could feel. It took 5 minutes to sharpen out. Keep in mind this is an area that the rock is so dense the gas drilling companies have stopped exploratory drilling.

Needless to say I've put that knife through its paces for the last two years and continue to do so. Sure, there are some scratches and wear marks on the stainless finish, but other than that not even the slightest bit of damage or wear to the blade. All I have to do is keep it sharp and clean it periodically. I'm the kind of guy who touches something and breaks it. I've chipped other blades, I've snapped knives and I got tired of replacing $100.00 knives. When I'm out there, its more than just an inconvenience if a tool fails. It might not be life and death, but it certainly can ruin what would otherwise be a perfect day or weekend. Thats why I went with relentless and even though I try to buy the best equipment I can find, my knife is the only thing I hike and camp with that I don't need to worry about. No matter what I can depend on that knife.

I don't read this board much and I'm sure folks will throw in more opinions long after I've posted this, but for those of you actually interested in going with relentless, try talking one on one with Dan yourself rather than listening to most of the comments in this thread. Maybe they arent the right knives for you, maybe they are, but at least go to the source before you make your decision. What I can tell you is that if I havent damaged mine by now, I doubt youll manage too either.
 
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Look to CFK iPak out in Oregon, they will Custom make (forged) or you can choose from probably 50 different styles, purpose, color, and Steels. Lifetime warranty and Custom sheaths. I love this company.
 
AND $100 buys almost everything! Or watch eBay auction and try to snag or for $50...same goes for Relentless, only those get snagged for 2 bones
 
May I ask why you choose a Hollow grind? A flat grind would aid in strength and imo would not diminish cutting ability. And if you are going for an overbuilt knife wouldnt a thinner hollow grind go against that mindset?
.

No because a Sabre Hollow Grind offers both, the fast thickening hollow "flare" of the sabre grind line spreading the wood and protecting the thinner edge from accidental side loads, especially compared to a thin wide-blade flat grind...

Also the edge wear does not thicken the edge as it carries the apex upwards on the blade, which is why the sharpness potential stays the same over decades of use. That is in part why Randalls are such valued heirlooms...

The only downside of Saber Hollow Grinds is the one almost never mentioned: They are quite a bit heavier compared to a similar Full Flat Grind. Also, a Full Flat Grind tapers fully up to a spine wood saw, which to me is a big plus, as I have little use for batoning, but quite a few uses for nice square notches...

Gaston
 
No because a Sabre Hollow Grind offers both, the fast thickening hollow "flare" of the sabre grind line spreading the wood and protecting the thinner edge from accidental side loads, especially compared to a thin wide-blade flat grind...

Also the edge wear does not thicken the edge as it carries the apex upwards on the blade, which is why the sharpness potential stays the same over decades of use. That is in part why Randalls are such valued heirlooms...

The only downside of Saber Hollow Grinds is the one almost never mentioned: They are quite a bit heavier compared to a similar Full Flat Grind. Also, a Full Flat Grind tapers fully up to a spine wood saw, which to me is a big plus, as I have little use for batoning, but quite a few uses for nice square notches...

Gaston
?? :eek:
 
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