why the demand for the Cruwear PM-2?

I'm glad to hear that, I definitely wanna try the steel. I'm stuck on whether I should keep with my current buying plans and get something like a Police in the steel, or a ManBug (1.8" cutting edge). Ha. One thing though, that I have to do a double-take on...

Man... Cruwear is super corrosion resistant, in my experience, and I see patina in the very pictures of K390 from dealers! K390 is supposedly like the most corrosion prone of them all, I heard. I'm not disputing you, just saying you are the first to say anything good about K390 in terms of stainlessness. It is Cruwear that receives all the most love for being "stainless non-stainless".

I have been able to maintain all my carbon steels through just oiling, happily, even being near to the coast.
I live near the equator, around jungle, near the sea, at a river delta. In this salty humid air I have yet to have K390 rust. As far as patination, I have a slight golden tint that must be looked for. Of course, I keep a thin coating of Vaseline on my blades. Remember, a lot of what is on the internet is...well, on the internet. K390 was so loved that people bugged Spyderco to produce more knives in it (which they wanted to do, anyway). I'm not saying anything about Cruwear, as it is a great steel and deservedly loved. K390 will out perform it where it counts, however. K390 made it into regular production, Cruwear has only been limited to special runs. Spyderco has to consider who will use the knives and who will complain. So, there's that. Now, this is only my opinion so feel free to disagree.
 
I was thinking of my PM2s, and I decided I really want one in a crazy, all-out steel (Unless you consider REX 45 to be that), like S110V, Maxamet, K390, 10V, something like that. I decided to go with Maxamet as it seemed the easiest sharpen out of all if you have the requisite diamond. But, the stuff beats S110V, it just seems amazing. Want to try K390 in a small knife, sub Delica.

Love the Crucarta, always will keep it as the toughest PM2. Might even get two.

Maxamet beats S110V in CATRA testing, but S110V still has extremely high wear resistance equal to K390 or 10V, double the toughness of Maxamet (as ran by Spyderco) and is nearly corrosion-proof. Neither S110V nor Maxamet are particularly easy/fast to sharpen, and you will find people that complain about both of them in that regard.

Metallurgically speaking, S110V is an apex composition. Given its extreme carbide volume (~27%) it is remarkably tough, with finer carbides than any other grade, and maximum niobium content. It's probably my favorite Spyderco steel overall, followed by Rex 45. It's about as close as you can get to a zero-maintenace blade steel in small folding knives.
 
Maxamet beats S110V in CATRA testing, but S110V still has extremely high wear resistance equal to K390 or 10V, double the toughness of Maxamet (as ran by Spyderco) and is nearly corrosion-proof. Neither S110V nor Maxamet are particularly easy/fast to sharpen, and you will find people that complain about both of them in that regard.

Metallurgically speaking, S110V is an apex composition. Given its extreme carbide volume (~27%) it is remarkably tough, with finer carbides than any other grade, and maximum niobium content. It's probably my favorite Spyderco steel overall, followed by Rex 45. It's about as close as you can get to a zero-maintenace blade steel in small folding knives.
Thank you, man, I consider your opinion very valuable. Learn a lot from your information!

Just received my Maxamet today over the S110V, and have never had any other corrosion as long as I maintain with mineral oil, but that may change with my increasing knife usage. The way I heard it, S110V is better at keeping the working edge for longest, whereas Maxamet excels at keeping more of a razor's edge for me? Double the toughness of Maxamet? I did not know that. How would you compare it to 10V? You seem to know a lot about steels. I am trying to get the perfect balance PM2, and it seems like 10v is Cruwear on steroids. Is that accurate at all? I am heavily considering a used, patina'd but still in great usable shape 10V PM2... I have David Mary here offering to do a refurbish/regrind on it for me, too. Would you say it's worth it?

I found myself very attracted to knives and Spyderco is my favorite brand, and, very early into this, I have collected quite a few Spydercos, definitely more than I need but I will be able to try and see what I like, have a nice strong collection, and sell or gift what I do not like. Belatedly, am getting my first sharpmaker in a few days, going to learn that, a guided system to keep my knives sharp while I learn freehand simultaneously.

I love the PM2 platform and am direly waiting for the new Military 2. I love that I can try many steels in the platform. Just in that platform, I have BD1N, Cruwear, S45VN, REX 45 and Maxamet. The other Spyderco steels I have acquired, just in case you were wondering, include VG-10, ATS-55, S30V, XHP, ZDP, M4 (on my gf's knife) and 3cr13 (in a Bug). I have lots of different steels to try! One steel I was looking at, was 440V or "S60V", would you say that is still a relevant steel to a user today, if I still consider VG-10 relevant? Thanks for reading all that.
 
Thank you, man, I consider your opinion very valuable. Learn a lot from your information!

Just received my Maxamet today over the S110V, and have never had any other corrosion as long as I maintain with mineral oil, but that may change with my increasing knife usage. The way I heard it, S110V is better at keeping the working edge for longest, whereas Maxamet excels at keeping more of a razor's edge for me? Double the toughness of Maxamet? I did not know that. How would you compare it to 10V? You seem to know a lot about steels. I am trying to get the perfect balance PM2, and it seems like 10v is Cruwear on steroids. Is that accurate at all? I am heavily considering a used, patina'd but still in great usable shape 10V PM2... I have David Mary here offering to do a refurbish/regrind on it for me, too. Would you say it's worth it?

I found myself very attracted to knives and Spyderco is my favorite brand, and, very early into this, I have collected quite a few Spydercos, definitely more than I need but I will be able to try and see what I like, have a nice strong collection, and sell or gift what I do not like. Belatedly, am getting my first sharpmaker in a few days, going to learn that, a guided system to keep my knives sharp while I learn freehand simultaneously.

I love the PM2 platform and am direly waiting for the new Military 2. I love that I can try many steels in the platform. Just in that platform, I have BD1N, Cruwear, S45VN, REX 45 and Maxamet. The other Spyderco steels I have acquired, just in case you were wondering, include VG-10, ATS-55, S30V, XHP, ZDP, M4 (on my gf's knife) and 3cr13 (in a Bug). I have lots of different steels to try! One steel I was looking at, was 440V or "S60V", would you say that is still a relevant steel to a user today, if I still consider VG-10 relevant? Thanks for reading all that.

10V is a fairly simple PM tool steel with very high carbon and 10% vanadium. It's the base steel from which K390, S90V and S110V are all derived. These grades are collectively referred to as '10V class' steels because they contain approximately 10% vanadium or equivalent carbide formers like tungsten or niobium. 10V class steels are all top performers, with high wear resistance, high hardenability and moderate toughness.

K390 is a modification of 10V with cobalt for increased tempering resistance. In knife applications, 10V and K390 are very similar. If you like one, you'll probably like the other.

S90V and S110V are stainless modifications of 10V. S90V is basically 10V with a large increase in chromium. S110V is a more elaborate modification which adds 3% niobium for improved carbide characteristics and corrosion resistance. S90V and S110V have similar performance, but S110V is much more stainless. S90V and S110V are not quite as tough as 10V or K390.

Cruwear is not similar to 10V. It has much lower carbon and carbide forming elements, and a moderate amount of chromium. Cruwear has fairly high toughness, and most people consider it to be a well-balanced steel with good edge characteristics. Cruwear isn't stainless, but it doesn't rust particularly easily.

Maxamet is a carbide replacement steel with very high alloy content, extreme hardenability, extreme wear resistance and very low toughness. It will cut forever, but doesn't tolerate side loading very well. Maxamet is not particularly prone to rusting because of its high alloy content, but it's not stainless either.

I have a few 440V Spydercos, but they're collector's pieces and I've never cut anything with them. Spyderco used to run their 440V quite soft, around 56HRC. At that hardness, it should have wear resistance in the S30V range.
 
10V is very similar to K390, and somewhat similar in performance characteristics to S110V. Cruwear is at the opposite end of the spectrum with more toughness and less edgeholding.
I was speaking in terms of toughness, I heard both were fairly tough steels. I suppose not compared to Cruwear, eh?
10V is a fairly simple PM tool steel with very high carbon and 10% vanadium. It's the base steel from which K390, S90V and S110V are all derived. These grades are collectively referred to as '10V class' steels because they contain approximately 10% vanadium or equivalent carbide formers like tungsten or niobium. 10V class steels are all top performers, with high wear resistance, high hardenability and moderate toughness.

K390 is a modification of 10V with cobalt for increased tempering resistance. In knife applications, 10V and K390 are very similar. If you like one, you'll probably like the other.

S90V and S110V are stainless modifications of 10V. S90V is basically 10V with a large increase in chromium. S110V is a more elaborate modification which adds 3% niobium for improved carbide characteristics and corrosion resistance. S90V and S110V have similar performance, but S110V is much more stainless. S90V and S110V are not quite as tough as 10V or K390.

Cruwear is not similar to 10V. It has much lower carbon and carbide forming elements, and a moderate amount of chromium. Cruwear has fairly high toughness, and most people consider it to be a well-balanced steel with good edge characteristics. Cruwear isn't stainless, but it doesn't rust particularly easily.

Maxamet is a carbide replacement steel with very high alloy content, extreme hardenability, extreme wear resistance and very low toughness. It will cut forever, but doesn't tolerate side loading very well. Maxamet is not particularly prone to rusting because of its high alloy content, but it's not stainless either.

I have a few 440V Spydercos, but they're collector's pieces and I've never cut anything with them. Spyderco used to run their 440V quite soft, around 56HRC. At that hardness, it should have wear resistance in the S30V range.
Great info! On all of those steels.I did not know that those steels had derived from 10V though I did know 10V was very old. I am sure that I will like all of them, I love having different steels to use for different applications. I have and use and will continue to get to know and use everything from 420HC to Maxamet to Cruwear to Rex 45. :) I am enjoying very much learning what elements have which effect in the steel.

I was asking about 440V so much because I was considering (just bought it, though) a serrated Military in 440V from the late 1990s or early 2000s, I was thinking a similar thing as you, buying that (Over the base S30V, say) for collecting, but I low-key want to use it. Probably shouldn't with 12 other Spydies to use. I also have an ATS-55 Civilian from the same guy, and am thinking of a Wayne Goddard. Do you know the Wayne Goddard? Is that collectable?
 
I think my crucarta pm2 has now slipped ahead of my k390 pm2 for heavy use. One task my pm2’s get is yard work which includes scraping clean the underside of my mower. I haven't found any steel which retains sharpness through that. However, k390 and cruwear both will retain a working edge after this chore, neither shaving sharp but both useable.
The big difference is how cruwear comes back after. K390 needs a 20 minute sharpening session to get it back to shaving, cruwear takes ten swipes on brown spyderco rods, then a quick strop and it is back to shaving.
I love exotic steel, but when I am in the field, strong cutting performance paired with a quick, non-diamond plate, onsite recovery makes all the difference in the world.
 
I will suggest that a basic gas station knife would work well for scraping the lawnmower.
Lol, no. I dont trust a 10 dollar knife not to fold up on me or shatter. Pm2 is a burly enough to handle this and other beatdowns with ease. They are tough knives! Add the sharpen-ability of cruwear, and this is nothing but good.
 
I have a number of PM2s and the micarta/cruwear is my "current" favorite. I'm using it for basically everything except for cardboard where my Rexford RUT is king. Easy to sharpen steel and holds an edge for a reasonable amount of time.
 
I really enjoy Cruwear in my Spydies. I appreciate the toughness it brings to the table, especially with Spyderco's needle like tips. And while it might not have the edge holding on paper that something like a Rex 45 or M4 has... in real world practice I don't notice any kind of issue with Cruwear holding an edge for ages. I mean if you're doing so much intense cutting on a daily basis that the difference in edge holding is that critical... you probably need something other than a pocket knife anyway.
 
I would like a thin stock cruwear like a centofante3 or chaparral. I do enjoy my crucarta pm2 and knife center smooth g10 pm3 cruwear but I find myself grabbing my stretch 2 in k390 because it is thinner. On paper it’s only .7” or so thinner than my pm2 but it seems to glide through things much easier. What is the thinnest stock cruwear spyderco that can be bought even in the secondary market?
 
I would like a thin stock cruwear like a centofante3 or chaparral. I do enjoy my crucarta pm2 and knife center smooth g10 pm3 cruwear but I find myself grabbing my stretch 2 in k390 because it is thinner. On paper it’s only .7” or so thinner than my pm2 but it seems to glide through things much easier. What is the thinnest stock cruwear spyderco that can be bought even in the secondary market?
I'd bet the Dragonfly 2 exclusive, but that's a shorter-height blade so the grind probably not as dramatic as it is on the Stretch 2.

Answering the OP question: because you can do this to the full-liner frame!
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I own one and love it. The micarta on it is just as good as the micarta on my Civivis and Kizers. Cruwear might not have the edge retention of Maxamet but it is a well balanced steel great for edc.

I don't know, I'm not an expert. Just my opinion
 
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