Why Won't My Handles Stay On?

Hey Mike. I haven't read this entire thread but, just to throw out something from my experience the Rene Roy cleared up for me when I first started making full tang knives. I used to set my full tang knives with pins/bolts and epoxy and then "pop" off the epoxy that was left on the ricasso after it dried. This would end up putting a slight flaw in the epoxy seal an would then allow the scales to pull up a hair...no matter what material they were. Now after I set everything up, I use a Q-tip and tiny bit of WD-40 to wipe the epoxy away before it drys and I haven't had that problem since. This might not be the problem but, it sure doesn't hurt to keep in mind. Hope it helps somewhat. Let me know if I can do anything for ya.
 
Thanks J.
i remeber the last time i posted this you told me the same thing, and i stick to it now. i've had that problem before too, and fixed it right quick.
i like the idea of WD40 though, i know how you use up the stuff in the shop. i'll give it a try. i try to use dry q-tips or ones with just a litte tiny bit of acetone, trying not to get any to soak in between the slabs.
thanks man p.s. you got mail
 
I do the same thing. I used to wait till the epoxy was almost set and scrape close to the ricasso. i found that sometimes this pulled a bit from under the scale. i now quickly clean up that area right after i clamp, using acetone soaked into a scrap of wood. This will leave a nice thin bead along the base of the front scale rather than the void that scraping/popping used to cause sometimes.
 
nice idea with the acetone on wood too... can't get too much acetone on there like that.
i've experienced fixing a knife with a poor cleaning job i did..... a little epoxy smeared on the flats because i was rushing.... man that scuked getting off
 
Guys, I have been using 70% isopropyl alcohol for many years on full tang knives. Once I get them clamped/bolted I cut up some pieces of paper towel, dip them in alcohol and wipe up the excess epoxy. The alcohol dries very quickly and will not harm any handle material that I am aware of. It is cheaper than the acetone and far less toxic or flamable.
 
Make sure your handles are flat before you start. When you glue make sure you uses enough to saturate all around the handles. Putting in the pins and then hand clamp the handles and so the glue will squish out all around. Let it set for 24 to 30 hours. You can always work on some other project why you wait. Check out my shop and see the illustration of the way I clamp up my knives in the structure. Help this will help.

Barkes Knife Shop:thumbup:
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard/knifeshop.htm
1.812.526.6390
 
I drill all my holes and pre-fit things to make sure everything is lined up. Then I epoxy the handle tang and put the scales in place, slide in the cutlery rivets and any extra pins/thong hole tubing and squeeze it up in the vice until epoxy oozes from the seams and the rivets are set into their final place.

Put the knife aside, I usually just leave it in the vice and work on it the next day. I have never had one come appart using this method.

Often this is a two step process. I pin and epoxy my guards and pommels, and let them set up for a night before working with the wood/antler/micartas.
 
KnifeHead said:
I know what it is...You didn't sacrifice a red chicken, douse it with kerosene, light it and point it's flaming body North while chanting "camma camma camma camma camma cameleon". :eek: :rolleyes: :D

Seriously, man cannot live by adhesive alone. Pinnith and sin no more.
Click to expand...

I know this is and old thread but when i read this i could not stop laughing :D
 
I have to agree with most of the posts by saying drill the 'swiss cheese' holes in your tang for lightening and epoxy holding. As well as in the handle material itself. Also to ensure a better hold in your epoxy 'pins' countersink all the drilled holes with a larger drill big slightly. If you are pinning do the same to the pinning holes. Falling short of that use narrow tang construction. Allows a more full view of the piece you are using for handle material.

I use Pratleys quick set clear. Toughest epoxy in the world. Will glue two mirrors together. I don't pin my narrow tangs or add threaded pommels, just Pratleys and boy you really have to go to town on the handle to remove it if it need replacing. So tough is it that I hung from a 3.2mm forged 50CrV4 blade with narrow tang construction and no pinning. I weigh a hefty 125kg. Also survived the 90deg bend test.
 
To many pages to go thru, you could be just over clamping the scales and squeezing all the glue out.
Richard
 
wow this is old.... i don't know what the old issue was but i did everything that everyone said to correct the issue... and it was still screwed up.... so i figure it was the cheap devcon epoxy i was usingyes Nick you win the sexiest bladesmith of the year award..... i thought we already went over this!
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
wow this is old.... i don't know what the old issue was but i did everything that everyone said to correct the issue... and it was still screwed up.... so i figure it was the cheap devcon epoxy i was usingyes Nick you win the sexiest bladesmith of the year award..... i thought we already went over this!
Click to expand...

was the problem found and solved ? Dose not sound like it . What stopped this from happening to me was to put epoxy on both the tang and the handle material . I went cheap for awhile and only put the epoxy on the handle and then rubbed it around on the tang . The front of the scale at the ricasso lifted up every time on the next 3 knifes . So I no longer skimp on the epoxy and yes I had drilled all the holes and did pin also .
 
When I started using doing my first ivory and horn work I asked Bruce Bump and Don Hanson for advice and listened to a lot of it (not all, but a lot).

One of the pieces of advice was to let the handle materials sit in the shop for six months to a couple years. The set of buffalo scale I used most recently sat for 18 months in my shop and went from flat to slightly bowed in that time- they stopped "moving" over a year ago, though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top