Wilderness Knife for Backcountry Canoe Trip

RoyalM said:
You could do worse than checking out the new release from Scrapyard Knives.
LINK
$100, 5 inch blade, tough as nails coating and grippy handle. You can also grab a sheath with it.

I'd couple it with a folding saw like this one:
bahco-laplander-folding-saw.jpg


As a side note that looks a great trip, have fun mate.
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Is that made by Kershaw? It is identical to Kershaws saw. Look at the link below, and the MSRP! 1/3 the price
http://www.kershawknives.com/productdetails.php?id=169&brand=kershaw
 
Ah, good to know. You learn soemthing new everday! I certainly like the price of the kershaw!
Edit: didn't see that price part! Was reading on my phone, while driving! I should stop doing that.
 
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Chunk,

I live in Deline on Great Bear Lake. We're almost neighbours!!

I gotta agree with the Dozier Pro-Guide suggestion, but that may be a bit pricey, I dunno. For a bit less money, check out the Stainless CS Master Hunter, or maybe the Cabela's/Dozier collaboration.
If I were you, I'd make sure you brought a SPOT along with extra batteries and a solar charger. Also, the Back is not the MacKenzie. Drift wood is not nearly as plentiful and not as big, so you may be able to get away with a smaller blade on your belt. Still think a bigger knife or small hatchet should be in the pack, preferably the hatchet.

For the knife, though, personally I'd go for comfort over super steel. An IJ Aito from Ragnar is awesome.
Koster's handles are really nice as well.

The one I'm currently debating are the Idaho Knifeworks Cliff Knife (hey, there's lots of "cliffs" on Great Slave) from Sage Creek and a Sparky by Breeden from GoingGear.com.

Hope you have a great trip. Careful on Great Slave - big nasty water.
 
It is AUS-8- hardened to 56-58 Rc. AG Russell Carries this knife as well. I thought about getting it, but then decided against it, mainly because i already have a ton of Dozier knives so I didn't think I needed that one, although the price is nice! To be honest $235 for a knife of that quality isn't much to pay especially when you are using the knife on a trip like that!
I just looked on Cabelas, and it appears that they are showing that it is AUS 6 steel, while AG states AUS 8.
Here is a link to the Boker/Dozier collaboration:
http://www.agrussell.com/b%F6ker-plus-dozier-anchorage-pro-hunter/p/BO-D250BM/
 
How about a Grohmann Boat Knife? You can get it in stainless or carbon steel, and it's a very handy design...and not too expensive.

Ron
 
Bearing in mind the water and salt, which would lead to a high probability of rust, I'd stay away from anything carbon steel. You'd have to keep it pretty heavily oiled and just about baby it.
I'd go with something in stainless. Something by Spyderco (that Black Handled Salt and the Rock Salt look like winners) or SAK (I've used my OHT to repair broken water lines, so I know they're good in wet condiditons).
 
KEmSAT-Survival said:
Bearing in mind the water and salt, which would lead to a high probability of rust, I'd stay away from anything carbon steel. You'd have to keep it pretty heavily oiled and just about baby it.
I'd go with something in stainless. Something by Spyderco (that Black Handled Salt and the Rock Salt look like winners) or SAK (I've used my OHT to repair broken water lines, so I know they're good in wet condiditons).
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I disagree given the use patterns of the OP. He wants a really tough knife and uses it hard for extended periods. Thus field sharpening is necessary to maintain it. If he gets a carbon blade that is coated he won't really have any corrosion problems and will enjoy the benefits that carbon blades really provide in mid-sized knives. He might get a little rust fuzz on the edge, but if he is using the knife readily this will come right off during use.

Even a non-coated blade can be forced to patina and will be safe to use in a corrosive environment. I've used buck 420HC in a high salt coastal environment (44 ppm) and it also developed rust spots while my patina coated opinel didn't (although the opinel swelled shut which sucks).
 
I agree with Kgd, High carbon blades are the way to go. What is a little knife maintenance anyway? With all the work your knife does for you, shouldn't you give it a little love and effection in return??? I take Flitz with me when I am on an extended trip, at the end of a day or two into it, give it a once over.
With my suggestion of D2, it is nearly stainless, though it is not stainless, but you will have a little less problem with rust. Everyone of my D2 knives see a lot of use, and everyone of them looks brand new. The reason---- Drum roll--- I take care of them. It is like a woman, if you don't take care of them and give them the attention they need, they get a little rusty and dull!
 
kgd said:
I disagree given the use patterns of the OP. He wants a really tough knife and uses it hard for extended periods. Thus field sharpening is necessary to maintain it. If he gets a carbon blade that is coated he won't really have any corrosion problems and will enjoy the benefits that carbon blades really provide in mid-sized knives. He might get a little rust fuzz on the edge, but if he is using the knife readily this will come right off during use.

Even a non-coated blade can be forced to patina and will be safe to use in a corrosive environment. I've used buck 420HC in a high salt coastal environment (44 ppm) and it also developed rust spots while my patina coated opinel didn't (although the opinel swelled shut which sucks).
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...And you can't "field sharpen" anyhing but carbon steel? :confused:

What is "field sharpening" anyway? Is that like sharpening a knife on a sandstone rock?

Or do you mean carrying a whetstone or some sort of sharpening tools (which is part of being prepared) and performing routine edge maintenance, before the blade gets so dull that you could drive nails with it?

Forcing patinas is all nice and neat and pretty. "Rust Fuzz" is still rust, and once that virus starts, it's quick to happen again and again. If it were me I'd get a knife that I didn't have to give a second thought to when water hit it. And in that territory, it will. Alot.
I love carbon steel. Just about every knife I own is carbon. But there are some environments that it just isn't suited for.

That's just my .02. And you know what they say about opinions.
 
You seem like quite the experienced tripper.
A very ambitious route with big water.

After 30 some years of doing canoe, camping, and back packing trips myself... stuff gets wet.
Whole trips can get soggy and miserable depending on the weather.
And the gear (tents, bags, clothing) never gets a chance to fully dry out.

Even in brilliant sunshine the bottom of the canoe and packs get wet from footwear in and out of the lake, paddle crossover drips, and getting drinking/cooking water.

I would leave the carbon and leather home.

D2 is an eyelash away from stainless. :thumbup:
It can stay damp in kydex a couple days and may only show an easily removable spot or two.

What also is largely being left out here is carry for the knife.
In and out of a canoe. Paddling a canoe in the seated position. Squatting around the campfire. Packs and gear being toted.

I hate a knife constantly poking me in the ribs in vertical carry doing those activities.

A horizontal carry or dangler belt loop, long enough to push to either side of your thigh when squatting.

The Dozier kydex sheath is about the best out there.

I would third the Pro Guide with his Wilderness style sheath.
Just a great all around knife for your criteria with about the most comfortable handle in his line up.

Perhaps also, a DMT pocket sharpener to go with. May not even need it. ;)

Best wishes and be safe. :)
 
KEmSAT-Survival said:
...And you can't "field sharpen" anyhing but carbon steel? :confused:
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440c and 154cm are a PITA to sharpen compared to carbon blades. They require better stones and more patience. Carbon is a breeze. To me, the field maintenance related to wiping the blade dry with your spare pair of socks at night to dry it and easy of sharpening are well worth the difficulties of touching up a hard wearing stainless.

I think people make way too much of an issue out of rust. Check out Jimi Wade's post where he left his A2 blade for a year outside unprotected. It was still highly usable after that time. A couple of swipes on a stone and the edge was tuned. Not pretty, but also not really damaged.
 
Brians, I have only handled the Dozier at Cabela's. Either Aus 6 or 8 are half decent and easy to sharper from what I've seen.
I totally forgot about Grohmann. The boat knife, survival knife or the large willow-leaf model 1 would all be sweet. They can all be had in flat-grind as well, which is what I'd get. Might be worthwhile dipping the sheath in beeswax, or getting a kydex one made.

On the Dozier collaborations, the Cabela's and AG models are different. Both made by Boker, but different knives....
 
Lots of good suggestions from some good people - thats the great thing about this forum!

I assume you are talking lightweight stuuf here, so an axe.khikri is out of the question for chopping wood, and you are more likely to baton stuff when and if needed, plus you are looking for a good fish prep knife.

You already have a SAK, personally i like the pliers of the leatherman (esp for fish bones) but either or as they say.

Now for a fixed they are a couple of suggestions and the new H1 steel may be the way to go - and the Rocksalt looks like one hell of a knife, would definately chop/hack through wood and do general choresd well as well, not sure what it would be like in prep small fish, but for biggies I can not imagine it would be a prob - if i was going down that line though I would but it then get someone like SAR to mod the handle and maybe take a little off the hump at the back, G10 sgaped and fitted to your hand would be a lot nicer - and then that sheath...well your choice but for me it would be off to a nice kydex maker and they are lots here who would help, stapped to my PFD, and then a belt/baldric set up for on land would be my choice, normally I perfer leather but may rot where you are going.

Finally i would consider a Dozier bird/fish type knife, Loveless used to make great ones, and Doziers are no slouch - D2 is fantastic steel - but is prone to rust so i would be keeping it in an oiled cloth, and that in a dry bag, only use it for the food prep...
 
I have used my Doziers on many a canoe trip, without any kind of corrosion showing up. They are fairly rust resistant in my experience. Most of the trip Chunk is doing will be fresh water until the last portion. A Dozier will be fine. Pro Guide would be the coolest! But if you are nervous, any of the above more stain resistant models will work well. I bet the Spydies in H1 would be pretty neat.

Another one I would look at is Blind Horse. Their Large Workhorse would be great if you can find one..
 
iBlade said:
D2 is fantastic steel - but is prone to rust so i would be keeping it in an oiled cloth, and that in a dry bag, only use it for the food prep...
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D2 is not prone to rust.

Putting your knife in a bag when it may be needed for an emergency cut to lashed gear or legs caught in rope if the canoe capsizes is not wise.

Or think about packing along a portage to cut a strap or clothing due to injury or being hung up on foliage.

My primary knife would never be off my person. :)

Check out his map.
This is an enormous trek with many potential hazards... :eek:
 
Okay folks, lots of great suggestions, lots of good advice! I took my time and researched the suggestions, and all have their merits. So here's what I came up with:

I will be taking a folding saw for sure, my trusty Bahco Laplander

For a big fixed blade, I looked to my Northern bretheren from across the pond, and figured that if a Leuku is man-tough enough for arctic survival over there, it must be perfect for what I am doing over here!

So... is there a stand-out manafacturer for a Leuku that I should know about? Or am I in good hands if I pick up a Stromeng, or Roselli, or are they all equivalent?

I may be okay without a smaller fixed blade to pair with it, I do have my favorite SAK, the Outrider, with me always.

Thanks again guys!
 
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