Wilderness Knife for Backcountry Canoe Trip

Yup Roselli's are nice. Thick, though. I also like the IJ models from Ragweed Forge or Ben's Backwoods. Wood Jewel have some nice models, one of which I own. Stromeng are nice, but they are very thin. Just so you know. The five inch model is as thin as a fillet knife.
Ben and Ragnar sell a couple in sets with a smaller pukko riding piggy back.

Good choice by the way.
 
Last edited:
For me, Id pack a BRKT Gunny in some of Eastr77s neck Kydex. Id pair it with a good axe or folding saw and a SAK Farmer...
 
KEmSAT-Survival said:
...And you can't "field sharpen" anyhing but carbon steel? :confused:

What is "field sharpening" anyway? Is that like sharpening a knife on a sandstone rock?

Or do you mean carrying a whetstone or some sort of sharpening tools (which is part of being prepared) and performing routine edge maintenance, before the blade gets so dull that you could drive nails with it?

Forcing patinas is all nice and neat and pretty. "Rust Fuzz" is still rust, and once that virus starts, it's quick to happen again and again. If it were me I'd get a knife that I didn't have to give a second thought to when water hit it. And in that territory, it will. Alot.
I love carbon steel. Just about every knife I own is carbon. But there are some environments that it just isn't suited for.

That's just my .02. And you know what they say about opinions.
Click to expand...


Unless the carbon steel knife rusts completely through, it will still be a stronger, more dependable knife than the stainless. I understand what you mean about not giving a second thought to getting a stainless knife wet, but in that situation I would be much more concerned with failures more immediate and more severe than rust. I would much rather sit around for a while at night and polish some surface rust off of a carbon knife with a piece of steel wool or bark or wood than sit around at night trying to figure out how to put my broken stainless knife back together.
 
I have to echo what many others have said here about taking a duo rather than one blade. For the tasks you have identified, knife design of benefit in one direction is usually a detriment in the other. I would recommend a larger blade for heavier chores and something lighter like a Mora for food prep. For dependability I turn to Busse family knives and Ranger knives. Busse is more expensive, but very capable. A Skinny ASH would probably handle all of your tasks and save a few ounces over the fatter version. A Ranger RD7 would probably do the same, but might be a little heavier. It is also a lot cheaper and readily available. The ranger would also be easier to sharpen. I know you said every ounce counts, and I understand that, but adding a mora would almost be like carrying the same gear, but having one sock wet instead of dry.
 
Here's another vote for any of Bob Dozier's knives. They are very well built, of very good steel (D2). They all come razor sharp, they stay razor sharp longer than any other knives I have used, and, they are easy to resharpen. Bob's sheaths are as nice as his knives. You cannot go wrong with Bob's knives... call AG Russell and he'll tell you now much he loves them. If they're good enough for AG, they are good enough for me.

My Dozier Yukon Pro Skinner has been my constant companion on many, many wilderness hunting & camping trips. It is incredible, and, I bet my life on it.

AJ
 
I am going to weigh for carbon steel as well.

I may not be able to articulate to those who do not like carbon steel, who prefer stainless steel in the outdoors, why it is better, but there is much evidence.

And if one was really paranoid about the rust issue, one could wipe their blade down with white petrolatum after every use, and that is a fine rust preventative.

Finally, a carbon steel blade is just simply so much tougher, and so much more forgiving of hard use.
 
G'day CaptInsanto

CaptInsano said:
Unless the carbon steel knife rusts completely through, it will still be a stronger, more dependable knife than the stainless. I understand what you mean about not giving a second thought to getting a stainless knife wet, but in that situation I would be much more concerned with failures more immediate and more severe than rust. I would much rather sit around for a while at night and polish some surface rust off of a carbon knife with a piece of steel wool or bark or wood than sit around at night trying to figure out how to put my broken stainless knife back together.
Click to expand...
Is it all stainless knives or just some that you have these concerns about?

Have you used any of the laminated stainless blades?



Kind regards
Mick
 
Chunk - excellent choice on the Leuku. Recognize these aren't the 1/4" prybars you have described in the past. Their forte is not chopping, but they can be batoned. For a compromise between traditional and full tang toughness, how about going after a custom Koyote bushcrafter leuku. There is a review thread by Tonym that is many pages in length where this knife has gone through the ringers and back.

Koyote makes his knives with a real distinctive style. Some people aren't crazy about the looks, and others love them for their distinctiveness. I had him make me this big traditional leuku (10" blade) that I really like as a hybrid between a leuku/small machete. You will never regret a purchase from Koyote. He has his own sub-forum in the makers area.

DSC_0054-7.jpg
 
SouthernCross said:
G'day CaptInsanto


Is it all stainless knives or just some that you have these concerns about?

Have you used any of the laminated stainless blades?



Kind regards
Mick
Click to expand...
I would have to say that I have this concern about all stainless knives. I have used some laminated stainless blades. I think they serve some purposes very well, but that they are almost categorically inferior in terms of strength and dependability. When you have to depend on a knife, the knife cannot fail. I guess you could argue that rusting is a type of failure, but already went through my preference in that regard. Of course, the OP has already said that the last laminated stainless blade he used rusted severely anyway. I'm not really seeing an advantage there. Maybe I'm just placing different values on certain characteristics than you are. I think strength is more valuable than stain resistance because I can still use a rusty knife without being overly hindered.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top