Will Rat sharpen there knifes?

okbohn said:
If you don't mind intentionally putting a convex edge on the knife, a piece of leather and sandpaper works amazingly well. Here are some videos one of our customers did that are spectacular.

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages.php?pID=4&CDpath=0
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+1 on that video series. It helped me to correct many small flaws in convex sharpening that I didn't even know I had. And while I'm at it, +1 for convex edges in general. Although I do love my Sharpmaker... Oh, and BTW, I just got my first RAT (Izula) in trade a few days ago, so I guess I'm part of the "family" now? Sorry for the hijack, just wanted to throw that in there.
 
Thank you Shotgunner11 for the explanation. I'm a little slow, please understand. I would be rubbing the marker off, so when I sharpen I can see the contact points between the knife and stone? This sounds like a really good idea, and the light just came on over my head :). Thank you Brad for the idea, I have wanted to ask the butcher at Stop&Shop how they get their knives so sharp. I figured they would know how! The way I sharpen freehand, it seems like I always grind the edge flat to a V point, but end up with a bevel on one side. Its ok, but not close to razor sharp.
 
Siguy (Simon) can sharpen just about anything with an edge I believe. I just had him convex a blade for me and it's freakin' scary sharp.
 
Which Lansky kit is the one to get? I don't want to get one and kick myself for not getting a different one later down the line. It will be used for folders, fixed blades and possibly a tomahawk.
 
any sharpening system is better than nothing.... Lansky or Gatco, DMT...Norton stones, Spyderco sharpmaker.... I have 'em all, even a Strop system from KSF...
 
Pobox
Of the reasons I prefer the Spyderco is It will handle longer knives narrower blades and thicker blades. The lansky's I have seen won't handle the thick poll of T'hawks or axes.
And if you go to use it on a longer blade ( over 7 inches) you have to move the clamp along.
Some very narrow blades you will have difficulty getting stone to touch the edge around the clamp.
But maybe I'm biased?
Carl
 
glefic, contact me if you want any help or if you cant sharpen the knives yourself. i have more vids and information. go check out lava_lamps thread.
 
Yes, richard j is the one you should contact. He's a super nice guy and really knows his stuff. Give him a try, you won't be disappointed!
 
I've found the trick to hand sharpening with a stone is just take your time and go slow, make each stroke intentional each time feeling for the bevel of the edge; the knife will guide you and show you how it should be sharpened (unless you are re-profiling the knife) and just draw the knife (along the length) along the stone for smaller blades and the stone along the blade for larger blades. My 2 cents
 
I have a problem sharpening. Can anyone here please answer this question? When sharpening a blade does the blade edge curl in & create a (long) bur? That is what happens to my blade when I sharpen it. What am I doing wrong? The edge starts to curl in, on the side not against the stone. I can feel the metal with my nail when I run my finger nail down thru the blade profile to the bevel edge. I though I was putting too much pressure, I tried a lighter touch and still have this problem. I tried straightening the edge out by dragging the blade edge in the opposite direction. I pulled the blade edge (with the bur) against the stone instead of (cut) pushing the blade thru, trying to straighten that curled in edge. What’s funny is that the blade feels sharp even though I feel a bur on the blade. I have watched the videos posted here but have not come across this problem. Am I going about it the wrong way, please help? :confused:
 
^ Are you alternating your strokes on between the two sides? I bought my stone;
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Back in the late 70's and was the go to guy for sharpening. I used to grind them in a circular motion and switch sides after about a minute. Later I thought that I was removing too much metal and switched to a draw stroke alternating sides each time. I would then finish with a small circular hone that came with a SAK Swiss Champ for finishing. I now am sorta afraid to go it by myself with all the high tech sharpening systems and talk of proper angles. I intend to check into the Spyderco system as the blades I now own are a huge step up from my Buck's as a youth and I want to properly care for them.
 
Yes I do alternate sides, I watched this video that was suggested, (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQN4jcXDjbE&feature=related)
It’s very informative and I copied his technique, 8 strokes per side then 8 strokes alternating sides. I still have end up with the same problem with too much metal on one side (bur). Maybe I just have to get the Sharpmaker!? What about those pull thru hand sharpeners, or electric sharpening machines, do those work, any suggestions? I want a razor sharp RC4 (like the factory original edge), but I don’t want to buy a third RC4.
 
onado2000 said:
Yes I do alternate sides, I watched this video that was suggested, (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQN4jcXDjbE&feature=related)
It’s very informative and I copied his technique, 8 strokes per side then 8 strokes alternating sides. I still have end up with the same problem with too much metal on one side (bur). Maybe I just have to get the Sharpmaker!? What about those pull thru hand sharpeners, or electric sharpening machines, do those work, any suggestions? I want a razor sharp RC4 (like the factory original edge), but I don’t want to buy a third RC4.
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Hey Bro, sounds to me like you might have too much angle, creating a very thin edge to get that bur. Try angling your blade more into the stone and give it a few strokes. If you have a leather pants belt, try stepping on the buckle and pulling it up and giving the blade a few strokes on the back side of the belt in the opposite direction of your sharpening, i.e. dont try to cut the belt, but the other way.

That should help knock the burr off and leave you with a wicked edge.
 
electric sharpening machines
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I would urge you to avoid them. Yes stropping on leather is usually a very safe way to fine tune the edge. I have a leather Olympic patch that looks like a drink coaster that works wonders. I would also suggest lightening your pressure a little as you progress through the process.
I want a razor sharp RC4
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The 1095 steel will allow you to achieve this on your own. That is one of the main advantages or it.
 
Thanks Shotgunner, That method is also demonstrated on the video that someone suggested. It’s a great idea if you don’t have a strope, and I don't, so I will try it again. I am cheap to buy stones because I would rather buy knives with my limited $. I have the (broken 3 inch segment) stones from a sharpmaker that a friend gave to me, just don’t have the base. And I have an Arkansas stone that I got from Wal-Mart ($6), I think its medium grit ???.
What do you think of the pull thru V shaped sharpeners or an electric sharpener? Any experience with either that yielded positive results?
 
onado2000 said:
What do you think of the pull thru V shaped sharpeners or an electric sharpener? Any experience with either that yielded positive results?
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The pull through v sharpeners are really marketed to non-knife people who can't sharpen worth a damn. They do produce something of an edge but they remove way more material than is needed, don't last very long, and don't do a good enough job to please most knife loving folk like ourselves.

The electric systems range from total POS, "I wouldn't run a dollar store steak knife through that contraption" all the way to very high end, professional chefs knife worthy quality.

In my opinion, the ones that are worth owning are kind of cost prohibitive. For the price, I'd rather pick up a whole range of quality stones, a nice strop setup and a few more knives to practice with.
 
Please let me pick your brain. I have a couple RC-4s, I keep one brand new so that I can remember what the factory edge feels like. I don't use any other RC knives I have for fear of having to buy a second (a sharp & used/dull model). My wife said dull knives are not enough reason to spend $ and buy new sharp knives ;). I mainly use one of the RC4s daily and would like to get it back to a factory edge. I am not proficient at hand sharpening (obviously) but want to learn I do practice on the stones I have, but I need/want to have a razor sharp knife. What type of stone & sharpening method should I use to get my RC4s razor sharp? Just a thought, I wish Rat Cutlery posted their Ad in the Shotgun News, I would have discovered them much earlier. The only good thing is that I practice sharpening on the other knives with out worry of screwing up the blade. Appreciate any input.
 
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