Wilson Custom Knives- S.A.F.E. System

[Sam Wilson]

I would like to take a minute to introduce the new knife system I have been working on. I came up with the M.O.A. System (Make it Out Alive) as a large, hollow handle knife-based system for survival, wilderness, and camp use. It includes a large knife, ferro rod, quality compass, PSK knife, and sharpening stone that all fit into either the hollow handle, or into magnetized compartments in the sheath behind the primary blade. This included a sheath system that I developed myself, to give users not just a hollow handle “survival” knife, but a whole system to provide what they need in an emergency.

However, this is the S.A.F.E. System (Survival Adventure Field and Exploration). This system is along a similar vein, but designed to be more compact, lighter, and more minimalist. It includes the hollow handle knife, it utilizes the same threaded buttcap as a handle for the ferrocerium rod, to make it easier to hold while striking, and the same roll-up pouch to store the items in the hollow handle to prevent movement and damage. The roll-up pouch is made out of wax-impregnated linen, so you can cut a strip of it off to serve as emergency tinder.

The S.A.F.E. knife is smaller though, and doesn’t really need a PSK (Personal Survival Kit) knife. So to lighten the system, I got rid of the compartments on the sheath, where the PSK knife and sharpening stone would be stored. I think it’s very important to be able to sharpen your knife in the field, though, so to make this possible without adding a pouch to the front of the sheath, which can get snagged on things in the woods, I took a diamond sharpening rod and put the same threaded sleeve on it as the ferro rod, allowing it to be screwed into the buttcap for use as a handle while sharpening. This makes it more comfortable to use a ferro rod/sharpening stone that would otherwise be on the short side, due to size constraints of having to fit into the hollow handle.

The SAFE knife utilizes the same construction method as on my larger hollow handle knives, which I have demonstrated the strength of by doing chin-ups on the handle. But I have scaled this knife down to make it a better performer for finer work. It is made out of 3/16” stock, to make it a better slicer and shave weight. It also features a full flat grind, for aggressive cutting ability. This is the prototype, and the blade and guard are both made out of 440C SS. Moving forward, the standard steel for this knife will be 154CM, with S35VN optional.

It also features an asymetrical guard. This provides for safety during hard use, but also allows the thumb to be placed on the spine for detailed work. The spine area right in front of the guard has been lightly rounded for comfort, but the clip (last two inches of blade) has a very squared spine for striking the ferro rod.

I used a retention strap based on shock cord, like on my larger knives, so that when you unfasten it from the stud, it flies back out of the way. I much prefer that to keeper straps that go across the guard, and clutter up the front of the sheath, and can get cut when drawing the knife. This way is also easy to modify, if the user wants to remove it, and put on a simple snap strap across the handle. The belt loop also features a “Pull the Dot” snap, for security, so that the belt loop can be opened and the knife put on or taken off without opening up your belt.

Blade Steel: 440C (Prototype only, future models will be 154CM or S35VN)
Blade Length: 4 ¾”
Handle: Approx. 4 ½” incl. buttcap
Blade Thickness: 3/16”
Weight: Approx. 16 oz (knife and sheath together) 17 oz w/survival kit

I look forward to comments or questions you may have on it. Thank you,

Sam Wilson :thumbup:

 

[cricketdave]

I like it a lot Sam, really a nicely balanced design. The sharpening rod and ferro are a great way to use the buttcap and the guard is very well designed. It looks very sharp in design and execution. Just a really good looking useable knife. Great job.

 

[bowie69]

I totally concur with cricketdave. Your ingenuity is surpassing itself.

If possible, and not giving away proprietary secrets, could you publish pics of the mechanics of the tang/handle construction (such as the tang, and the end of handle prior to insertion of tang)?

I would also like to add that the fit and finish on this blade seems possibly your finest yet. :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[Sam Wilson]

I like it a lot Sam, really a nicely balanced design. The sharpening rod and ferro are a great way to use the buttcap and the guard is very well designed. It looks very sharp in design and execution. Just a really good looking useable knife. Great job.

Thank you Dave. It feels good in the hand, and to be honest, I'm looking forward to making the Field Use video. It all came together just as I wanted. Let me say, making a prototype is a lot of work, lol.

I totally concur with cricketdave. Your ingenuity is surpassing itself.

If possible, and not giving away proprietary secrets, could you publish pics of the mechanics of the tang/handle construction (such as the tang, and the end of handle prior to insertion of tang)?

I would also like to add that the fit and finish on this blade seems possibly your finest yet. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thank you bowie. I had a little help refining the design from our own TAH, who was tremendously helpful along the way. Tom knows his knives, and is very willing to share his knowledge.

I will get some pics of the blade blank and put them on here when I get a chance. To describe it briefly, the guard is hard silver soldered (silver brazed) onto the handle tube. Then the blade is inserted into the guard, and soft silver soldered in place. There is a hole in the tang, and I drill a hole in the handle to line up with it. Then a 3/16" (1/4" on the big knives) steel pin is inserted through the handle and tang. It goes all the way through, and is peened so it can't move. Then epoxy is poured in till it covers up the tang. I haven't been able to get one apart without a torch and tools yet. There are videos on YT channel showing abusive tests. The knives are very solid.

Thank you for the compliments. I am happy with how it came out. I look forward to making more.

Sam

 

[Sam Wilson]

I wanted to go ahead and post this here in Customs, and get a different perspective on this knife. Here is a thread explaining it more fully: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1178378-Wilson-Custom-Knives-S-A-F-E-System

But this is my latest hollow handle knife offering. The S.A.F.E. System is a lighter, more compact system than the M.O.A. System. Here are some pictures, and the specs:

Blade Steel: 440C (Prototype only, future models will be 154CM or S35VN)
Blade Length: 4 ¾”
Handle: Approx. 4 ½” incl. buttcap
Blade Thickness: 3/16”
Weight: Approx. 16 oz (knife and sheath) 17 oz w/survival kit

I look forward to comments or questions you may have on it. Thank you,

Sam Wilson

 

[cricketdave]

It is a much more refined design as well as really good fit and finish, my only suggestion would be to add about a half to 3/4 inch to the length and use that to add a choil just big enough for a forefinger. Your design lines are much cleaner and more esthetically pleasing on this one though.

eddited to add, I simply find myself choking up and using a choil often.

 

[Bo T]

A neat design. I like the way you have incorporated your sharpener and striker to thread into the buttcap. I am not familiar with your larger design but at 17 oz. this one seems a little heavy. Could the guard and butt cap be made from a lighter alloy? Could a compass be incorporated into the butt cap? Is it possible to thin out and profile your guard to save some weight? I use a Mora 546 or SAK and a Couglin orange match case/whistle as my current PSK for day hikes.

 

[Glenn Jones]

I love your design. I also agree with cricketdave about the addition of half to 3/4 inches to the length.

 

[Nitro74]

All I can say is WOW Sam.
This is one beautiful knife.
The ferro rod and sharpening rod idea is pure genius.

 

[acropolis5]

Great design. I'm an owner and long time admirer of a Randall Model 18, 5.5", with sawtooth back. But your design gives me a desire. I join in the requests for adding length to create a forefinger choil. Pls talk about the handle and wrap. Is the bare handle knurled? Is the guard wide enough to allow a wire wrapped handle with overlapping tape? Here's a radical thought: adding a wire cutter option. How do I get on your wait list?

 

[Sam Wilson]

It is a much more refined design as well as really good fit and finish, my only suggestion would be to add about a half to 3/4 inch to the length and use that to add a choil just big enough for a forefinger. Your design lines are much cleaner and more esthetically pleasing on this one though.

eddited to add, I simply find myself choking up and using a choil often.

Thanks again Dave. I appreciate it, and I know you know your knives, you've had some great posts in the Hollow Handle thread. I will try to answer most of these questions here. As far as the length and finger choil, I agree to an extent. I love finger choils, I think they just add versatility to a knife, especially for finer work. They are pretty prominent on my larger knives. For this one, though, I wanted to keep it as compact as possible. With a 4 3/4" blade, I wanted to maximize the length of the cutting edge. I may do a longer blade at some point, with a choil possibly, but for the prototype I wanted to do a sub-5" blade with nothing superfluous on it. I hope that makes sense.

A neat design. I like the way you have incorporated your sharpener and striker to thread into the buttcap. I am not familiar with your larger design but at 17 oz. this one seems a little heavy. Could the guard and butt cap be made from a lighter alloy? Could a compass be incorporated into the butt cap? Is it possible to thin out and profile your guard to save some weight? I use a Mora 546 or SAK and a Couglin orange match case/whistle as my current PSK for day hikes.

Thank you, Bo T. As far as weight, it came out to 16 1/2 oz. on my kitchen scale. That is the knife, sheath, ferro rod, and sharpening rod. The knife by itself was 10 1/2 oz. There's not a whole lot to shave off of there while keeping the design the same. The guard is SS, but the buttcap is aluminum. As far as the compass in the buttcap, I know this is popular, but I prefer not to put it in there. You have to remove the buttcap if you want to take a bearing, and I don't like the idea of pounding with the buttcap if a compass is in there, as it might cause damage. (Don't say a word, cricketdave ) If the customer drilled it out themselves, and put a compass in there, I wouldn't have any problem with it.

 

[Sam Wilson]

I love your design. I also agree with cricketdave about the addition of half to 3/4 inches to the length.

Thank you, Glenn. This is the prototype of the standard SAFE model. I'm sure I will do variations sooner or later, or if the customer requests it, it wouldn't be a big deal to add that extra length.

All I can say is WOW Sam.
This is one beautiful knife.
The ferro rod and sharpening rod idea is pure genius.

Thanks, Nitro74. Always good to hear from you, my friend.

Great design. I'm an owner and long time admirer of a Randall Model 18, 5.5", with sawtooth back. But your design gives me a desire. I join in the requests for adding length to create a forefinger choil. Pls talk about the handle and wrap. Is the bare handle knurled? Is the guard wide enough to allow a wire wrapped handle with overlapping tape? Here's a radical thought: adding a wire cutter option. How do I get on your wait list?

Thank you, acropolis5. The Randall 18 in either size is a great knife. As far as the handle and wrap, they are not knurled. I make the handles out of 316 SS tube, which I cut to length and tap myself.

I offer it in 3 basic configurations: Plain, as the model pictured here. The handle is bead blasted for adhesion and then painted black, so that you don't have shiny steel showing through the cord wrap. I also offer a thin "micarta" wrap on the handle. It is about 1/16" thick, and is very popular on the larger knives. The "micarta" helps to insulate your hand from the heat/cold and shock transfer from chopping/batonning that is so common on metal handled knives. It also allows me to give the handle a slight egg shape, which feels great in the hand, and helps with indexing. Then it is cord wrapped.

Finally, I offer a thin rubber inner tube on the handle. This can be done yourself, or I can put it on and cord wrap over it. I have only done one or two like this around the shop, but so far I like it. I absorbs shock/heat/cold, and gives a comfortable grip.

As far as the guard, I make those myself. I usually leave about 1/8" or slightly less overhang on either side of the handle, so there is plenty of room to layer different wraps on the handle. As far as a wire cutter option, that isn't something I offer at this time. As far as the list, feel free to email me, either through Bladeforums, or wilsoncustomknives at gmail dot com.
Thank you,

Sam :thumbup:

 

[heresthedeal]

Nice looking knife, simple lines and concept,. but well thought out.

Only thing I can think of is a kydex sheath to attach to a carrier or web gear.
Some places/units/companies won't allow or strongly discourage a leather sheath, I'm guessing that will be an option if you're gonna market it to military or government people.

Nice knife.

 

[Sam Wilson]

Thank you, heresthedeal. As far as the kydex sheath, I agree, it has its advantages. To me, primarily weight. The leather sheath for this weighs about 4-5 ounces. I'm betting a kydex would be 1-2 ounces. I don't make kydex sheaths at this time, but I may get around to trying it out at some point. Thanks for the comments.

Sam

 

[cricketdave]

Once you try making kydex you will be shaking your head at just how easy it is. I would suggest spacing your holes for a esee molle back just because it offers so much versatility in carrying.

 

[boshi74]

nice job...

 

[TAH]

Sam,

All I have to say is that, in my opinion, you just introduced a new breed of hollow handle knives! Very practical in size and overall design and your workmanship is superb. This is the ultimate hollow handle field knife. I know of no other knife like it on the market today. You're leading the pack, Sam. Well done! :thumbup:

If it isn't too much trouble, it would be interesteing to see a photo of the SAFE knife next to your Model 1 for size comparison.

 

[bowie69]

Agreed, TAH.

I can even see this as a practical hunting knife.

 

[Sam Wilson]

I wanted to post a new knife I finished. This is the S.A.F.E. System- Survival Adventure Field and Exploration. The S.A.F.E. System is a lighter, more compact system than the M.O.A. System. Here are some pictures, and the specs:

Blade Steel: 440C (Prototype only, future models will be 154CM or S35VN)
Blade Length: 4 ¾”
Handle: Approx. 4 ½” incl. buttcap
Blade Thickness: 3/16”
Weight: Approx. 16 oz (knife and sheath) 17 oz w/survival kit

I look forward to comments or questions you may have on it. Thank you,

Sam Wilson :thumbup:

 

[Sam Wilson]

nice job...

Thank you, boshi.

Sam,

All I have to say is that, in my opinion, you just introduced a new breed of hollow handle knives! Very practical in size and overall design and your workmanship is superb. This is the ultimate hollow handle field knife. I know of no other knife like it on the market today. You're leading the pack, Sam. Well done! :thumbup:

If it isn't too much trouble, it would be interesteing to see a photo of the SAFE knife next to your Model 1 for size comparison.

Tom, thank you very much. So far this has been well-received. And folks, I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but Tom worked tirelessly with me through the prototyping stage to get this knife just the way we wanted, I am grateful for his help. I think it made for a fine product. :thumbup:
I will try to get some pics in the next week or so, and put them on here.

Sam