WIP - 1st knife looking for feedback

Looking good! I forgot to mention, next time you're at your friend's place ask if he has a countersink bit. Putting a slight bevel on all the holes with help prevent stress fractures and remove any burrs. Gives the epoxy more space to "hold on" when you put the scales on, too.
 
Looking good! I forgot to mention, next time you're at your friend's place ask if he has a countersink bit. Putting a slight bevel on all the holes with help prevent stress fractures and remove any burrs. Gives the epoxy more space to "hold on" when you put the scales on, too.

Great idea!

I love this place.

thanks!
 
looks good. It will wind up shrinking just a bit due to cleanup after the heat treat but it doesn't look like anything in the design is so picky that it will mess things up.
 
Looks like a great start, and you are willing to put some elbow grease into it! Keep the updates coming!
 
Are you talking about the bolster holes? If so, I used 5/32. What would you have recommended?

Thanks!

It depends. Stay as small as possible
I usually go from 2mm to 3mm, about from 5/64 to 1/8 maximum.

to remove burrs no need to use a deburrer or a beveler, just use a larger drill bit. As James told you it will help you in avoiding stress cracks and ugly burrs.

Cheers
 
See....told you not to worry about the tip. I knew it would come right out. That is a really nice design too.
 
Time to scribe the edge line.

I took a red sharpie (only color i had available), and colored the blunt edge.

I took an undersized drill bit (by 1/32) and scribed a line down the edge.

I then flipped the kso over, and scribed another line down the edge. This gave me a thickness of 1/16. Hopefully good enough for HT.

Scribing the line
image028e.jpg


Lighting was kinda poor, but this pic tries to show the 2 scribed lines.

image029b.jpg
 
I like the design. As others said, it flows nice. It's not clunky like some first knife designs are. I suggest making the choil a tad bit bigger and I would place plunge line at the top of the choil, but behind, as you have it drawn works also. There's no point to putting it before the choil.

Quote: Are you talking about the bolster holes? If so, I used 5/32. What would you have recommended?

What size pins are you going to use? That's the size I would drill, or rather JUST large enough to get the pins through to help make a wiggle free attachment.

You're going to have a nice knife.

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
I actually prefer red Sharpie or layout dye rather than blue or black, I think it shows up better. 1/16" should be plenty thick for pre-HT edge thickness.

Looks like you've really done your homework. You won't regret it :thumbup:
 
I like the design. As others said, it flows nice. It's not clunky like some first knife designs are. I suggest making the choil a tad bit bigger and I would place plunge line at the top of the choil, but behind, as you have it drawn works also. There's no point to putting it before the choil.

i'm going to do that next time (next knife).

Quote: Are you talking about the bolster holes? If so, I used 5/32. What would you have recommended?

What size pins are you going to use? That's the size I would drill, or rather JUST large enough to get the pins through to help make a wiggle free attachment.

5/32. I had planned on maybe reaming out the holes in the bolster, just a smidge, just so that when I pien them down, they lock the bolster in place. I just don't know how much to ream them, and how far down that ream should go.

You're going to have a nice knife.

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin

Thanks!
 
It's looking good so far! Don't worry if the shape changed a little, this is just plan"B"! Now is where the real work begins........:)

The bevel was and still is probably the one task I hate the most, cause if I am going to screw it up, well this is where it usually happens!:eek: Don't freak out though you got a 50/50 chance of getting it right.
Just yanking your chain. The only way to do the bevel is just attack it, slowly at first and keep checking from side to side to make sure you are keeping it consitant!:thumbup:
If the rest of the knife is any indication you are well on to a great job on your first knife!
 
Started working on the plunge cut. I had a flaring tool I picked up from a pawn shop.

When I did this, I made the mistake of filing from edge up. Next time, I will file edge-down.

Attaching the Guide
image030uz.jpg


Starting the Plunge Cut
image031x.jpg


Son of a !@#$@#$ I took the plunge cut too far!
image032g.jpg


A Closeup
image033.jpg


Starting the otherside
image034nc.jpg


Other side done
image035w.jpg


Showcasing my screwup. (I'm going to end up taking the
plunge cut to the spine before I'm done)
image036c.jpg


Knife is secured to a 2x4 and ready for filing.
 
ok, filing 3/16 barstock is going to take a while.

Working on this in stages.

First I started straight filing, to break the edge down to HT thickness
image037.jpg


More Straight Filing
image038m.jpg


Switched to Draw filing. Pushing from Tip to Bolster.
image039t.jpg


More Draw Filing
image040p.jpg


Done for now, until next time.
image041m.jpg


I wonder how a japanese SEN would work. Does anyone have any links or ideas how to make one?
 
Time to start the other side.

First I started to break it down to HT thickness.
image043e.jpg


More straight filing.
image044bw.jpg
 
Once I had the edge thickness where I needed it to be, time for draw filing.

I really like this technique.
I think I would like to make a Japanese SEN and try that out.
image045qq.jpg


I'm pushing the file (rather than pulling). I don't know if that's right or wrong,
but it's what feels good to me. I'm pushing the file from tip to bolster.
(just like the other side)
image046n.jpg
 
This side is going much better. Things are feeling smoother.

Check out the metal filings. They are creeping down the 2x4.
image047ty.jpg


Another shot. You can sorta see the thickness of the blade.
image048p.jpg
 
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