- Joined
- Apr 8, 2003
- Messages
- 2,092
Hey Dixie,
I didn't do a full tang because there was not enough metal, plus it's a whole other animal...you cant do a guard like I have on a full tang.
A plain hidden tang would have needed a "stag round" instead of slabs.
A through tang would have needed a finial on the end of the handle.
To be honest, when I started I was just going to mortise the stag and not do a frame. The problem came when I ground the scales a bit too thin for that kind of handle and then decided to do the 1/8" frame. I'm glad I did, because I think it really brings the piece together.
One of the advantages is I can play with and fine tune the balance of the knife.
For some reason some folks think a frame handle or a hidden tang is a week design...not true. They are quite strong when done right and will hold up very well next to a full tang knife.
What the hell are people doing with thier knives to get these ideas?
These are KNIVES not hammers!
I recomend that anyone needing to use a knife as a hammer find a hammer instead.
Page, The whole package is held on with the NS pins. All the holes are drilled then the holes in the stag get a tapered reamer twisted in them by hand...this as you might know gives the NS somplace to go when peened.
Brian, To answer your other question from before.
The vise I'm using I got at "Ocean State Job Lot" store. It was meant to be mounted on like a portable woodwoorking table and could be quick disconected and mounted to other things...(if you had extra mounting plates). I just have it mounted to some wood and when I need it I just clamp it to my bench. Tightens and loosens by the big black knob on the right side of it. Comes in handy...I use it a lot when I'm seewing sheaths.
Thanks again for looking.
Mace
I didn't do a full tang because there was not enough metal, plus it's a whole other animal...you cant do a guard like I have on a full tang.
A plain hidden tang would have needed a "stag round" instead of slabs.
A through tang would have needed a finial on the end of the handle.
To be honest, when I started I was just going to mortise the stag and not do a frame. The problem came when I ground the scales a bit too thin for that kind of handle and then decided to do the 1/8" frame. I'm glad I did, because I think it really brings the piece together.
One of the advantages is I can play with and fine tune the balance of the knife.
For some reason some folks think a frame handle or a hidden tang is a week design...not true. They are quite strong when done right and will hold up very well next to a full tang knife.
What the hell are people doing with thier knives to get these ideas?
These are KNIVES not hammers!I recomend that anyone needing to use a knife as a hammer find a hammer instead.
Page, The whole package is held on with the NS pins. All the holes are drilled then the holes in the stag get a tapered reamer twisted in them by hand...this as you might know gives the NS somplace to go when peened.
Brian, To answer your other question from before.
The vise I'm using I got at "Ocean State Job Lot" store. It was meant to be mounted on like a portable woodwoorking table and could be quick disconected and mounted to other things...(if you had extra mounting plates). I just have it mounted to some wood and when I need it I just clamp it to my bench. Tightens and loosens by the big black knob on the right side of it. Comes in handy...I use it a lot when I'm seewing sheaths.
Thanks again for looking.
Mace
Your explanation makes sense. 
