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cainethirdmortal

Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Messages
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My second attemp at making a knife. I took some advice from the posting of the first knife I started working on. I don't know if I'll do another FFG this size with a file. Let me know what you all think.

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Wow, looks really nice. Good job. Very solid looking plunge line! And that is a lot of work with a file. hah

What steel is it? Do you plan to heat treat yourself?
 
Looks good. Kudos on the full flat grind with a file. I have yet to tackle that one. One question, I can't tell if it is an illusion from the photo angle or not, but is the plunge line on the left side pitched forward slightly more than on the right?

Chris
 
Looking good. Personally I'm not a fan of the plunge going to the spine but that's just me. Other than that looks real good so far, I like the minimal tools. Just a word of advice, if you take a piece of wood and use one of those C clamps to clamp it perpendicular to the edge of the table then C clamp or spring clamp the blade to it, it'll give you a nice work rest. Especially for draw filing and sanding. Cant wait to see how it comes along.
 
dude. how frustrating was it filing holding onto that huge pipe.

is that just electrical tape holding it on there?

either way. you did a very nice job on that. totally give you some props for this work.
 
thanks for the input guys. now that I look at the pictures I did botch the plunge. I'll try and figure out how to fix that. I did the plunge first with my chainsaw file. how would I go about making so the plunge doesn't go all the way to the spine on a full flat grind?
 
I just realized that it's a file guide setup (I think). Wow. Clever.
Click to expand...

it is a file guide setup. I drew everything up in cad to figure out the angles I needed and just clamped the size square tube that I needed at the back of the bench.
 
If you want to bring the plunge line down a bit you will have to file/sand the flats of the sides until you start to reveal a bit of flat at the top of the blade. Clever file angle jig. Nice work.
 
Hey Caine...
It's difficult to tell from the photos, but it looks like your initial filing was done perpendicular to the the length of the blade using the bar/file assembly to establish the angle. I hope that you don't mind me asking, but have you tried draw filing?
I apologize if I'm interpreting the photos incorrectly.
Erin
 
You got it right Erin. I draw file when just about reach the spurn. The third and fourth pictures are draw filing. If you liij close you can see the low spots toward the back. I use the jig for this as well once
 
I'm going to purchase some fabric and take a look at some eposies and fiberblass resins this weekend to get a start on the handle scales. I want to get the handle holes drilled in the tang as weell. I'm going to be using the chainring bolts off my bent bike crank to secure the scales. I have to figure out how I"m going to go about straitening that plunge line too. I was thinking of getting the scales mostly fitted before I get the blade heat treated so it would be easier for me to drill any holes for balancing before heat treating. Any advice on the whole knife balancing thing. I've noticed that every knife tutorial I"ve seen the handle is always done last and the knife is balanced. Is there some secret that can be learned?
 
cainethirdmortal said:
I'm going to purchase some fabric and take a look at some eposies and fiberblass resins this weekend to get a start on the handle scales. I want to get the handle holes drilled in the tang as weell. I'm going to be using the chainring bolts off my bent bike crank to secure the scales. I have to figure out how I"m going to go about straitening that plunge line too. I was thinking of getting the scales mostly fitted before I get the blade heat treated so it would be easier for me to drill any holes for balancing before heat treating. Any advice on the whole knife balancing thing. I've noticed that every knife tutorial I"ve seen the handle is always done last and the knife is balanced. Is there some secret that can be learned?
Click to expand...

http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/micarta.htm

I'd just buy the composite materials, it's better cheaper and ready to go
 
lol. I was thinking the same thing. I really want orange and blue layered laminate scales though. I was looking threw all my carbon and kevlar scraps and don't have enough to make anything of any descent thickness and I have no epoxy. I wanted to work on the knife this weekend as it is just a weekend thing at this point in time. I may just order some scales but making them would be fun.
 
File a plungeline with a chain saw file app. 2/3 as high as you want it to go.
If you then file spine to edge also move the file slightly towards the point. That will give a slightly rounded line that you can take up to the spine.
Hand sanding with coars paper afterwards will smooth it out.
I like your work and your minimal setup
 
CTM,

To balance a full tang knife most people drill the tang under the scales with enough holes to remove alot of weight from the tang. These holes fill with epoxy when you install the scales, which helps make a good mechanical attachment. Make sure you locate and drill your pin holes to the correct size first. I use a different size hole for the "weight removal" holes so that it is easy to get the pins in the right place during glue up.

Now that you have those bevels on that blade please be extra careful when drilling the tang. You don't want the drill to catch when the web breaks thru the bottom of the hole and have the blade start spinning. There have been lots of guys cut themselves pretty badly like that.

BTW nice looking effort so far. Keep up the good work.

Jeff
 
Man I sure do have a lot of respect for you guys that file your bevels, I just don't have the patience to do when I can use my belt sander. But hey great job looks good!:thumbup:
 
Thanks for the suggestiopns. I filed the plunge line all the way up with the chain saw file. I'll have to try the 2/3 next time. Today I'll try and fix the uneven plunge line and order some micarta and g10 to play with. Getting some kydex and eyelets as well. I'm still having a hard time deciding between 3/16" and 1/4". It seems you can get chicago screws in both #6 and #8. Would #6 hardware be too weak for holding a belt loop to a sheeth?
 
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