Wood for axe handle

G-pig dried his handles before hanging them. He just did/does most of the shaping work green. I have an oak handle from him on a Spiller Jersey pattern and it's totally dry.
 
Gentlemen, if I may, please correct me if I'm wrong but, should an axe haft come from the trunk of the tree or would a branch be ok? If a branch would be ok, what minimum diameter would ok to use?
I was able to cut a few hickory branches off a tree that is destined to be cut down. I hope to get the tree when she comes down. Now, this brings up another question, I realize some of you all say that green wood is ok to use and some not. I'm not an expert or even a novice but let's say you wanted it to age and "cure." If you were going to deal the ends with varnish or whatever to help with splitting or checking, when would you seal the ends? Right away?
Hey, enquiring minds want to know this stuff.
 
Fmont said:
What size axes are we taking about? Pretty much any woodworkers supply store that carries lumber like Rockler, Woodcraft, a local similar place, etc. should have hardwood suitable to the task. Probably including hickory. I was in a Woodcraft several weeks ago and there was plenty of hickory, from 4/4 boards to big live edge slabs.
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Well how about that! There is a Woodcraft not far from a place I venture to every month - I had no idea. I hope your experience is mirrored in my neck of the woods. That would be great news.
 
Kevin Houtzager said:
You could use a branche, but it depends on the shap you want? And it can't have any ofshoots, since that will become fracture points. But since branches aren't straight, it usually means that you will have to make short handles. Branches with a natural curve that you like are usually stronger then the same length of wood from the trunk where the wood is cut to shape. Grain orientation is better. But is like finding a needle in a haystack, and not a sound business model. Al handles that are manufactured are from the trunk for that reason.
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Thank you Kevin. Sound advice and when you stop and think about it...common sense.
OP, I hope I didn't stray too far off topic.
 
cityofthesouth said:
Any idea on the costs?
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It depends on the dimensions and the species, but I have found that purchasing handles from almost any source is cheaper. I did purchase a couple pieces of osage orange (1.5x1.5x12) for $7 each just for fun to make hammer handles. They are still unused. But, anything large enough to make a curved handle out of will be cost prohibitive. Better to buy a fat handle or buy a hardwood round and make blanks.
 
I paid ~$60 after tax for an 8/4 board 40"(?, I'll double check when I get home) in length and ~14" wide - straight and clear. I can't remember specifically how many board feet. It's more work than working a Link, e.t.c. But I enjoy the process, and I'll get at least 5 full size axe handles and god knows how many hammer handles from it. All told a good investment for me.

They had 4/4 hickory boards on a pallet for dirt cheap, but you'd have to dig for something clear. 4/4 will work for smaller axes and hammers, e.t.c.
 
Uncle Timbo said:
Gentlemen, if I may, please correct me if I'm wrong but, should an axe haft come from the trunk of the tree or would a branch be ok? If a branch would be ok, what minimum diameter would ok to use?
I was able to cut a few hickory branches off a tree that is destined to be cut down. I hope to get the tree when she comes down. Now, this brings up another question, I realize some of you all say that green wood is ok to use and some not. I'm not an expert or even a novice but let's say you wanted it to age and "cure." If you were going to deal the ends with varnish or whatever to help with splitting or checking, when would you seal the ends? Right away?
Hey, enquiring minds want to know this stuff.
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Branches are reaction wood and prone to warping. A straight clear trunk is much preferable.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reaction_wood
 
Fmont said:
I paid ~$60 after tax for an 8/4 board 40"(?, I'll double check when I get home) in length and ~14" wide - straight and clear. I can't remember specifically how many board feet. It's more work than working a Link, e.t.c. But I enjoy the process, and I'll get at least 5 full size axe handles and god knows how many hammer handles from it. All told a good investment for me.

They had 4/4 hickory boards on a pallet for dirt cheap, but you'd have to dig for something clear. 4/4 will work for smaller axes and hammers, e.t.c.
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Yeah I'd be more than happy with that or more as long as I could pick them myself. I wouldn't blink at $10-15 for a single handle's worth of wood I got to pick. The store near me (near where I venture anyway) says they don't have them but gave me a couple suggestions.
 
So I just seen wheelbarrow handles at my local Home Depot. They were about $15.00 each. Now I’m not saying that’s cheap. But if you were looking for blank material to make a straight handle. This could be another option.

Edit : I guess my point is. The grain on the wheelbarrow handles was better than the grain on the axe handles that were right next to them.
 
survivor45 said:
So I just seen wheelbarrow handles at my local Home Depot. They were about $15.00 each. Now I’m not saying that’s cheap. But if you were looking for blank material to make a straight handle. This could be another option.

Edit : I guess my point is. The grain on the wheelbarrow handles was better than the grain on the axe handles that were right next to them.
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You are not wrong. I've done this with brand new $10 ash shovel handles. You can get 3-4 hammers out of one and perfect grain every time.
 
Kevin Houtzager said:
Yes thats right, so long as it doesn't have offshoots you'll be fine. I do hope you know what kind of trees your getting the wood from, as not all tree species are suitable....
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Hickory...and I took some of the nuts down to my MIL's and I plan on planting them before Thansgiving. I prolly won't be able to use the wood from them at my age, but somebody might. Squirrels?
 
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