Woodlore Knife Alternatives

Thomas Linton said:
The high cost of fashion.
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Amen to that. I am a big proponent of the "British Bushcraft" blade as you put it Thomas (I liked that one) but there are many MANY less expensive alternatives out there from good makers. I just don't get it:eek:
 
I see most bushcraft knives use o-1, it almost seems mandatory.
Is this because most bushcraft knives are custom made and o-1 is just an easy toolsteel to work with,
or is there another reason why o-1 seems important?
I don't have any knife in o-1, so I've no experience with it.
 
Neo said:
I see most bushcraft knives use o-1, it almost seems mandatory.
Is this because most bushcraft knives are custom made and o-1 is just an easy toolsteel to work with,
or is there another reason why o-1 seems important?
I don't have any knife in o-1, so I've no experience with it.
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That is a hard ??? to answer. O1 is an excellent tool steel for several reasons. Price, workability, and performance. I have a "Bushcraft" knife made from O1 and it performs very VERY well in edge retention, ease of sharpening, and durability. However, depending on the makers experience, and preference, there are other steels that will work well. Charles may uses D2 for his "Big Hand Scandi", Rodger L used S30V for his Bushcrafter knives. If a maker has more experience using/heat treating D2 over another steel, thats what they will use. It also depends on what, or where you plan on using your knife. If you live in Seattle Wa, where it rains all the dam* time, a good stainless steel such as S30V might be better.
 
These seem to be the typical specifications:

O-1 (a simple high-carbon tool steel that is easy to heat-treat and easy to sharpen compared to higher alloy steels)

3mm thick blade -- or less

<4" long blade

1" wide blade

spear point

so-called "scandi" grind (wide, flat bevels with no secondary bevel - unlike almost all production knives made in Scandinavia)

relatively long, fairly stout, neutral handle (good for a variety of grips), preferably of wood.
 
Hey Neo, I like that EKA, I see its a full tang and 4mm. I think I will get one and see how it performs.

I thought you guys may want to take a look at their site.

http://www.eka-knivar.se/index.asp?lang=UK

I dont know what it is about Swedish stuff, but it really turns me on (Must be my Viking heritage calling to me)
 
I'm pretty new to this forum. I learned here about the Bark River, and similar, style knives.

I like to finish blades myself as a hobby and make handles.

Can anybody steer me to a source for Bark River/Bushcraft style blades I can buy and finish myself? Preferably with blades under 3" long.

I've been to TKS, Jantz, K&G, Sheffield and others and haven't found them.
 
Steve, the only one I am sure about is a Fallkniven blank. You could call BRK&T and see if they would send you just a handle I suppose.

Other than that there are quite a few of the PUKKO style knives available as either a blade only or a 'Kit' with all the parts that you and fit and finish yourself.
 
Temper said:
Steve, the only one I am sure about is a Fallkniven blank. You could call BRK&T and see if they would send you just a handle I suppose.

Other than that there are quite a few of the PUKKO style knives available as either a blade only or a 'Kit' with all the parts that you and fit and finish yourself.
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Thank you, Temper.

I've made a lot of the puukko style blades using a lot of different handle materials, fasteners and finishes. They are quite addicting and are piling up on my tables.

This forum has really hooked me on the Bushcraft style blades. It would be fun working on full tang blades again. Wish I could find some. Bushcraft style knives are plentiful, but I think blade makers missed a market for the blades, only.

My shop is well equipped but I lack the skills and forge to make my own at this time.
 
I followed a link above to a makers site and found this kit, I dare say he would sell you just the blade.

http://www.swc-handmade-knives.com/KNIFE-KITS

KNIFE-PIC-02.jpg


Edited to add: Holy smoke, this guy has some nice stuff and very 'British' looking, I had no idea this was still going strong there. Good old Ray Mears, he as done for us knife & Bushcraft nerds what Gates did for computer geeks :)
 
Wow, Temper! That looks like exactly what I am looking for. I'll write him.

Good find. Thanks.
 
Neo said:
Frost of sweden has also nice fulltang blades: the lapplander.

http://www.frosts.se/index_2_uk.html

I'm sure they can be found everywhere.

And of course a good source for scandinavian blades is brisa:

http://www.brisa.fi/start3.html

(with very low prices :D )

:thumbup:
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Hi Neo:

My issues with both sites is that neither post the thickness of the blades which requires additional corospondence. Plus the tang holes are metric which might need to be bored or reamed out to american measurements and that can be tough to do on a hardened blade.

I'm still waiting for a reply from Steve at SWC. I'll let you know what he says. Should be interesting.
 
Big Bird said:
Like the idea of making my own with the SWC kit - any idea of specialist equipment needed?
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Big Bird, with the materials shown in the above pic, all you would need is some two part epoxy, different grit sandpaper, a Dremel with sanding drum, hand drill with appropriate size drill bit for pin holes, drill bit to drill out lanyard hole and if those are N/S pins, a ball peen hammer.
Scott
 
Neo said:
Please explain to me why the eka w11 and the helle fjellkniven are never mentioned as bushcraft knives. What does a knife make a bushcraft knife? :confused:
Ps, like to add; The Bark River Northstar and upcoming Aurora are certainly worth mentioning.
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I bought a W11 but returned it for a Fallkniven F1. I found the handle to short on the W11. I've handled some Helle knives. The Helle Eggen looked like a good bushcraft knife, but the lack of full tang, and some gaps between the blade and handle made me not buy it.
 
Ted:

I found your comments interesting.

I've made a number of Puukko's and I really like them. But I lean toward having a full tang knife if it truly came down to survival. Full tang must be stronger than hidden tang, even if the hidden tang goes all the way through the handle.

So I am looking for a full tang woodlore type blade to finish as my EDC. Yeah, I could buy one, but it just isn't the same to me as having made part of the knife myself and the sheath. I want the blade to be 3" long, thick and strong and an overall length of say 7".

It is a compromise on a larger woodlore style knife, but I can carry it without attracting much attention. I can use it in an emergency since it would always be with me. My being in a true long term survival situation is pretty small.

I liked the Morseth blades from Brusletto that Ragnar has for sale. The blades are very thick and they make a heck of a knife. It's still just not a full tang.

Thanks for listening.
 
DGG said:
Take a look at the Bark River knives if you can find one. They are tool steel (D2)
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I think you meant "A2", Bark River Knife & Tool has used it extensively and Scandvick 12C27, 1095 and 440C on occasion, but never D2.
 
Steve Poll said:
. . .
I liked the Morseth blades from Brusletto that Ragnar has for sale. The blades are very thick and they make a heck of a knife. It's still just not a full tang.
. . .
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If it's a functional objection, the full-length tang on those "Morseth" blades is massive. Check out the "V" shape in the inch below the blade/tang junction that reduces sress. Given the length of the blade, it would be very hard to break that blade off.
 
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