Wool blanket - 70 % wool VS. 100 % wool what is the diffrence ?

I only use 100% wool. From what I understand, the blended blankets are to increase durability. I have never had any problem with durability in a 100% wool blanket. When looking at surplus check the dimensions, but more importantly the weight. This will give you an idea of thickness and warmth. I also avoid dry cleaning them. However, should you decide to do so, check around and find a cleaner who specilizes in odd items. Also, try to determine if the wool has been mothproofed. I dont take any chances and mothball mine during the summer months. The last thing to keep in mind is color. A white blanket shows all dirt, and attracts flies. A dark blue attracts mosqitoes. In a cold environment, a dark blanket absorbs heat from sunlight. Good wool blankets are expensive, but will last a lifetime. Prices for some are higher than quoted here.
 
For the trail, I have sewn together 2 German army blankets on three sides. If it gets really cold I can stuff material inbetween them. A bit bulkier than the quality blankets... but I'm not afraid to sit close to the fire (in fear of sparks pock marking my good one) If I was doing period treks where authenticity was a must, I'd definately invest in a GOOD blanket.
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Rick, Yes, sewing the army blankets together is an excellent idea and I know of several people who do that very thing with good results. The period treks can be a bit tricky sometimes because equipment options are historically few. So, it is usually very important to purchase the very best that you can afford to maintain that margin of safety, comfort, and convenience. I would be willing to compromise on several items in exchange for a quality blanket. I often forego the use of a pack; just rolling my possibles up in my blanket/trail tarp and slinging that over one shoulder. Often the blanket is also my coat because I don't really like the weight of a wool capote. This time of year, all of my period clothing is also heavy wool (linen underneath) and combined with the blanket I stay fairly warm.

First, Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this subject. Can you please expand on the fulling and double fulling. How does one go about fulling a wool blanket? I have several Italian military surplus blankets that I would like to turn into some outer garments and I would like to see if this process would benefit me prior to sewing. Thanks again.
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You are most welcome, Paul.

I "full" or "felt" all of my blankets when new or after they have been used often or stored for a long period. The "fulling" will raise the wool hair fibers open and mesh or lock them together for a thicker, more dense and durable blanket. The process will not only tighten the weave to help with insulation, but it will also create more air spaces to improve that insulation. The blanket will also be more soft and enjoyable to sleep with (think "fluffy").

1. Wash the blanket gently in hot water. This will cause shrinkage and tighten the weave. Most of the experienced trekkers (or committed blanket users) that I associate with purchase a blanket one size larger than they think they will need because of the desirable shrinkage.

Some folks will wash their blankets on the gentle cycle (hot water) in their wash machines. They like the agitation to the wool fibers that the machine produces. But, I wash mine by hand in the bathtub with excellent results.

2. Once the blanket is blocked and dried, I leave it in the flat, unfolded position. Beginning at one end of the blanket, begin teasing up the wool fibers with a stiff hairbrush (some people like using a stiff shoe or utility brush). I usually work from left to right, in rows, covering every inch of that blanket. You will want to do both sides. After both sides are done, I quickly run the back of the hairbrush over the blanket pushing everything back down.

Again, some folks, before they begin the teasing process, will toss that blanket in their dryers on medium or medium low and tumble it for 20 - 30 minutes. The dryer will, by agitation and heat, begin the "fulling" process.

When the fulling process is completed, the blanket is noticeably more thicker, warmer, and will turn away rain for a considerable period of time. I have been caught in many a rainstorm on top of my trail tarp and under my blanket, and never got a bit wet or moist. The fulling process really enhances the rain shedding capabilities of the quality 100% virgin wool blanket. The blended wool blankets will not "full" like pure wool.

The last thing to keep in mind is color. A white blanket shows all dirt, and attracts flies. A dark blue attracts mosqitoes. In a cold environment, a dark blanket absorbs heat from sunlight. Good wool blankets are expensive, but will last a lifetime. Prices for some are higher than quoted here.
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This is a very good point about "color." I stick with earth tones and the pests leave the blanket (and me) alone. Whites and blues I most certainly avoid.

One of my Witney Point blankets is a well-used 32-year-old and still going strong. I call that "inexpensive" in my book (yes, expensive up front but not in the long run). :)
 
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Dannyboy Leather said:
Having been a living history reenactor or historical trekker (in the spirit of experimental archeology) for decades, I have learned a few things about wool blankets over the years that has proved valuable. When we are not participating on the reasonably safe wintertime rendezvous (we use tent stoves and plenty of blankets), I (we) am often running a Colonial Longhunter wilderness style trek (single or double blanket) in sometimes below freezing temperatures. The blanket really becomes a part of your survival gear at that point, ensuring a good nights sleep with complete protection from the elements. We do not trust our comfort and health to cheap blankets because they simply don't work well enough.

All of our blankets are 100% new wool and are soft. I have many blankets made by Hudson's Bay, Early's Witney Point (founded in the 17th Century in England), and my favorite blankets are hand-woven by C.J. Wilde http://wildeweavery.com/Default.htm. These blankets can be "fulled" (another subject) for extra warmth, they can be purchased very large (I use a 5-point size), they are extremely warm (cheap blankets can't compare). My blankets made by C.J. Wilde are as soft and warm as it gets. Not inexpensive, but worth every nickel if you enjoy warmth and comfort.

The reprocessed wool blankets, mixed wool/synthetics are fine for cutting up for crafts, emergency blankets in the car, picnics, a blanket to keep the chill off, etc., but the difference between one of those blankets and a *quality* 100% new wool blanket is literally day and night. I, too, have a pile of the military style blankets (some are all wool), but I don't sleep under those things in the environment in which we live. In warmer climates they might have a use.

We don't trust our wool blankets to the dry cleaners. I don't know of any quality blanket owner who does. Our blankets are * very gently* soaked and washed in the bathtub with either Woolite, a Nikwax product, or another liquid soap product that I get from a blanket maker. The blankets are then spun in the wash machine to remove excess water, blocked to dry (to keep its shape), and then fulled or double fulled. The results are superior to any other cleaning method and present no harm to the wool (unlike dry cleaners).

Like most everything else, you get what you pay for in blankets. If your comfort and safety are important to you, purchase the very best blanket you can afford. Cutting corners to save a few dollars here always brings about a regretful experience. I have been on FAR too many outings listening to folks complain in the middle of the night about the fact that they should have invested in a better blanket or sleeping bag. :)
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Thanks Dannyboy, this is valuable info, there's just no end to the stuff I learn here, much apprecated.
 
Excellent stuff Danny.:thumbup:
I now normally use fleece but as these colder weather folks know, it's an accident waiting to happen around any fire. Sparks from a 4 inch grinder will eat it up too.It aint worth a damn for work wear, other than as a under-layer.
I still have a couple of 100% wool blankets around that I take when on horseback, raft, or Land Cruiser..
 
Great info folks! Especially Dannyboy's tutorial - very illuminating!
 
Thanks for posting Dannyboy. Your method of "fulling" will be put to use this week. :thumbup:

Jeff
 
I always read about wool and synthetic sleepingbags still being "warm when wet". But wet doesn't normally go hand in hand with being warm. Other than a hot shower.
Has anyone ever actually slept in and been warm in a wet blanket?

I know one self proclaimed survival guru who rolls his tarp and blanket up toge
ther with the blanket on the outside, the reasoning being that if the blanket gets wet, it'll still be warm. Makes me question whether he's ever tried sleeping in a wet blanket or drying one out infront of a fire (I have. Tedious is too small a word). Always wondered why he didn't just... um... put the whole thing in a waterproof bag.
 
Thanks Magnussen! Interesting stuff. Still think sleeping in a wet blanket sounds rather awful
 
beef said:
Thanks Magnussen! Interesting stuff. Still think sleeping in a wet blanket sounds rather awful
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Well, I don't think you'd do it on purpose... I think I know the Guru you are refering to... and I don't particularly agree with him on that one. I agree that getting a hole in your tarp is a bummer... but sleeping in a wet blanky is more than a bummer.


Rick
 
I have slept with a wet, wool blanket once in my life. I can state that it did keep me warm. I believe I would have been warmer with the wet blanket than with out. It was dismal with it, but it would have been worse with out.

Magnussen said:
70% Wool and what else... that makes a big difference.

70/30 wool/various manmade fibres is a crap shoot
70/30 wool/cotton isn't bad
70/30 wool/acrylic tends to be scratchy IMO.
70/30 wool/Polyester would be nice but rarely found in blankets
70/30 wool/nylon is usually found in headgear socks and gloves

I look more for a thread count when choosing blankets. How tight is the weave? The emergency blankets that sell for $15 or less make crappy camp blankets. They are a loose weave that has bee felted... basically, disposable "disaster relief" only.

A good blanket will cost $45(army issue), up to $300(HBC, Whitney Point)

You can wash wool (in cold water) just don't dry it in a machine. and stretch it as it dries.

I buy my blankets BIG (as big as I can find) and I wash them HOT and machine dry HOT.... this shrinks the fabric and makes the weave windproof and warmer. A 68x96 blanket will end up around 60x88 after that.

Also..... do yourself a favour and treat them with 100% lanolin oil. (unless you are allergic) it will increase the life and improve watershed.

Rick
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Where do you typically purchase your wool blankets?
 
Magnussen said:
70% Wool and what else... that makes a big difference.

70/30 wool/various manmade fibres is a crap shoot
70/30 wool/cotton isn't bad
70/30 wool/acrylic tends to be scratchy IMO.
70/30 wool/Polyester would be nice but rarely found in blankets
70/30 wool/nylon is usually found in headgear socks and gloves

I look more for a thread count when choosing blankets. How tight is the weave? The emergency blankets that sell for $15 or less make crappy camp blankets. They are a loose weave that has bee felted... basically, disposable "disaster relief" only.

A good blanket will cost $45(army issue), up to $300(HBC, Whitney Point)

You can wash wool (in cold water) just don't dry it in a machine. and stretch it as it dries.

I buy my blankets BIG (as big as I can find) and I wash them HOT and machine dry HOT.... this shrinks the fabric and makes the weave windproof and warmer. A 68x96 blanket will end up around 60x88 after that.

Also..... do yourself a favour and treat them with 100% lanolin oil. (unless you are allergic) it will increase the life and improve watershed.

Rick
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Rick,

Where do you find these large blankets? I keep wanting to make or have made something similar to your wool pullover that you made and posted last year.

Thanks,
Kirk
 
Katdaddy said:
Could you explain the proper way to block a blanket?

Thanks!!
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I borrowed this from Wilde Weavery since I basically do the same thing in the blocking (I actually have a rack for mine).

CARE INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDWOVEN WOOL BLANKETS AND MATCHCOATS

A handwoven wool blanket can always be dry cleaned by a professional cleaner, but it is not difficult to clean it at home using the bath tub.

Draw warm water in the tub mixing a liquid soap in the running water. Place blanket in the water and let it soak, gently working water through it to loosen any dirt. Move the blanket to the far end of the tub whenever running more water into the tub. Repeat washings if needed and rinse with clear, warm water until all the soap is removed. Be careful not to let the water run on the blanket at any time as this could cause spot felting of the wool.

The easiest way to remove excess water from the clean blanket is to spin it in a washing machine on the final spin. Distribute wet blanket evenly around the sides of the machine and spin--DO NOT USE ANY WATER. When spinning stops, remove blanket for blocking.

It is necessary to block the wool blanket in order to square it back to its original shape. Spread the wool blanket out and gently shape it, folding it lengthwise on its center seam. Wrap this wet blanket around a clean wood board starting at one end and neatly rolling it until only the ends of the board stick out each side. After it has blocked for several hours, unwrap it and drape the blanket over a clothes line padded with old towels or over the rail of a deck to dry.

Allow the blanket to continue to air dry after it feels dry, as wool retains moisture that can't be detected by feel.
 
I know that I'm being a complete doofus about this but, after rinsing the blanket I fold it in half and wrap it around a board for several hours? So I wrap it like I am wrapping duct tape around a pencil? What size board are we talking here? What is the reasoning behind this? Faster students feel free to talk amongst yourselves while the teacher helps the slow guy!!!:confused:
 
Katdaddy said:
I know that I'm being a complete doofus about this but, after rinsing the blanket I fold it in half and wrap it around a board for several hours? So I wrap it like I am wrapping duct tape around a pencil? What size board are we talking here? What is the reasoning behind this? Faster students feel free to talk amongst yourselves while the teacher helps the slow guy!!!:confused:
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I believe blocking is like stretching it back into shape. The board just helps it dry square. That is my understanding of what blocking is. I dont think the beard size matters as much as it being wrapped evenly around the board. Hope that helps.
 
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