Work knife help!?!

For a work knife on the higher end of your budget. What about a Leatherman, specifically the Skeletool CX? Having extra tools option is nice. CX knife has 154 CM blade.
 
Another idea, keep your eyes open on the exchange here, and try to find yourself a used Benchmade Griptillian for your price...? 154cm is another Steel that's not too hard to sharpen (compared to more complex alloys out there), but is a step above and beyond any of the Chinese "cr-mov" steels.
 
If you are a construction worker, don't worry too much about steel types. I'm also a construction worker and I've never found a steel that lives up to all the hype that people here talk about. I'm not saying to go with junk steel, but you'll never notice the difference between VG-10/S35VN/M390 etc.

Construction is tough work, and many things you'll be cutting are very abrasive. Basically, your edge won't last no matter what, I know first hand.

What you want is a good knife with a very solid build, an easy opening method, good ergonomics, and then lastly a good steel (this should be the least priority). That said, almost anything in the spyderco lineup will serve you well as long as you're not trying to pry apart 2x4's or some other nonsense.
 
DwrightKM said:
For a work knife on the higher end of your budget. What about a Leatherman, specifically the Skeletool CX? Having extra tools option is nice. CX knife has 154 CM blade.
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Nice idea. Having the pliers and screwdriver is handier than you know.
You'll still want a different knife eventually but that's how knives are, you'll never have your last one.
 
check out some of a.g.russell's personal line-up, specifically the pocket beak. hook shaped blade is made for cutting some of the stuff you mentioned and you'd still have money left for a decent one hander, a rat 1 or whatever. on the flip side get a benchmade, most expensive you can afford, you won't have problems with it; for sure check out the exchange here ,and flea-bay if you have to Neal
 
Why not a small fixed blade? I'm not in construction but it would seen to me that you get more for your money with a 3-4 fixed with a decent handle. When stuff has to no kidding work simple is better.
 
Blues Bender said:
...I'm not saying to go with junk steel, but you'll never notice the difference between VG-10/S35VN/M390 etc.

Construction is tough work, and many things you'll be cutting are very abrasive. Basically, your edge won't last no matter what, I know first hand.
.
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While any edge will get worn out during hard (construction) use, he will notice the difference when it comes time to sharpen say 440c vs. vg10 vs m390. And the op admitted he wanted something noob friendly when it comes time for sharpening... As a noob, self sharpening, it behooves him greatly to get his learning curve on angles, edges, and even grinds on something like 440c or the ilk, rather then thrown to the wolves with something like s30v or the likes there of.
 
strategy9 said:
While any edge will get worn out during hard (construction) use, he will notice the difference when it comes time to sharpen say 440c vs. vg10 vs m390. And the op admitted he wanted something noob friendly when it comes time for sharpening... As a noob, self sharpening, it behooves him greatly to get his learning curve on angles, edges, and even grinds on something like 440c or the ilk, rather then thrown to the wolves with something like s30v or the likes there of.
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I disagree. A ceramic stone can be had for around ~$30 and will tackle any steel out there. I have a plethora of steels from M390 to N690 and up to YXR7 @ 65hrc. They all take roughly the same amount of time to sharpen.

What tends to take a long time to sharpen, is an obtuse edge or an edge that is past due for a touch up.
 
I'm a big fan of Boker plus knives just did a quick look on the center 3 in chad los banos in 440 c or ram maramba in 440c both with g10 scales will run you 40- 55 dollars + a lansky crock stick set for 20's will keep you in budget .. with a pretty easy (imho) sharpening system for touch up .. the maramba really jumped at me given your specifications since it has a nice belly too it
 
Get a used griptilian
They are work horses
My first griptilian was found covered in crap and sun bleached in the desert.
Cleaned it up and bam good as new.
 
Just use the work tools and save up a bit longer.

For cutting that Geo cloth and the other tasks you mention get a hawksbill blade.
 
when i worked in construction, everyone used those 5 dollar husky razors with the disposable blades that you can find at home depot. in my opinion thats really the best way to go. using a pocket knife for real construction work will dull your knife super fast or possibly damage it, its way easier to to use disposable box cutter style razor blades instead. i used to carry a pocket knife with me anyway, but it was only there for self defense.
 
how does your dad sharpen? if you get along and live close, see if he'd show you some, or a, method he uses. personally, not that i claim any special skill in sharpening, i'd steer you towards a dmt fine/coarse flip folder sharpener-it's diamond so it'll sharpen any steel and the size makes it very pocket/backpack/work bag handy. the crock sticks appeal is that you get a consistent edge bevel,as long as you hold it at the correct angle-but that's what you do free-hand anyways. a sharpie and a diamond stone and you'll be fine. you never stated if a fixed blade would work for you...? also if you are looking for simple to sharpen get a chisel ground blade.
 
JeremiahWeaver09 said:
when i worked in construction, everyone used those 5 dollar husky razors with the disposable blades that you can find at home depot. in my opinion thats really the best way to go. using a pocket knife for real construction work will dull your knife super fast or possibly damage it, its way easier to to use disposable box cutter style razor blades instead. i used to carry a pocket knife with me anyway, but it was only there for self defense.
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In many cases, this is very true. I use one for cutting against concrete, brick, or other rough materials. However, sometimes the lack of "blade length" makes some tasks kinda awkward. I could definately get by with just a utility razor, but what fun is that?:D;)

BladeAmateur97 said:
For whatever knife I end up getting would this be a good sharpener for a beginner...?
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I'm sure that would work fine, it looks like a SharpMaker. I freehand with a Spyderco DoubleStuff, it's the same ceramic that the SharpMaker uses. If you're still learning how to sharpen, a guided system may be better though. However, it might not work that well if your bevels don't match the fixed angles of the Lansky.
 
Maybe a tad over your price range but not by much...

The Manix 2 G10! It's a no brainier for the price! On Amazon it's about $80, and with S30V, G10, and a crazy strong yet very easy to operate locking system, what's not to like?! I own 4 Manix's in different variations, and the quality is extremely consistent through every single one. That's a feat which very few knife companies can do.
 
Blues Bender said:
In many cases, this is very true. I use one for cutting against concrete, brick, or other rough materials. However, sometimes the lack of "blade length" makes some tasks kinda awkward. I could definately get by with just a utility razor, but what fun is that?:D;)
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well you could still carry the pocket knife and use it for lunch and for stuff when you get off work, thats what i did.
 
Blues Bender said:
I disagree. A ceramic stone can be had for around ~$30 and will tackle any steel out there. I have a plethora of steels from M390 to N690 and up to YXR7 @ 65hrc. They all take roughly the same amount of time to sharpen.

What tends to take a long time to sharpen, is an obtuse edge or an edge that is past due for a touch up.
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See, I tend to notice that while you mentioned all higher end steels, my lower end steels, like the cr-mov's, aus's, 420hc, svandik's, and 440's take roughly half as many strokes across a stone (diamond or ceramic) as my higher end stuff (s30v, n690, xhp etc), and i actually own more lower end stuff. Touches up with a bteeze, whereas my higher end stuff takes a bit more time, and with the composition of the alloys, it is also easier to blend in any uneven spots due to recurves, longer blades, etc, with just a couple light strokes on the lower end stuff then it is with the higher end stuff which wears slower, (and ergo, wears stones out faster).

Now, once someone gets the art of sharpening down, any Steel is sharpenable, and if you can sharpen s30v, you can sharpen s90v with the same principles, but that's not to say 440 series isn't a whole hell of a lot easier and quicker (and cheaper) to learn with then more complex high alloy and hard(er) carbide steels.

I was sharpening run if the mill blades like Buck 420hc and Gerber ?'s for a while, but I remember when I first tried my hand at 30v, the amount of flat spots, uneven spots, and time consuming magnifying glass rechecks I went through to get 'em where I wanted 'em...sure the same ceramic (or diamond) stones will still "handle" the same steels, but keep in mind, you are an experienced vet at sharpening harder steels at different angles, yes, you can sharpen an exotic alloy maybe even with ease, but, while someone with experience might not take notice to the difference any more, 2nd nature and muscle memory sort of thing, drilling through pine or drilling through through greenheart with the same bit, or cutting standard bricks or cutting granite with the same blade, are not "equal" tasks, esp for a beginner aiming for certain tolerances, the first time they pick up a drill or saw.
 
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