Work knife help!?!

With all the sharpening talk all I can say is that the Mora, regardless of steel, will be the easiest and fastest to sharpen and still teach you about making a burr, what different grits do, etc. And leave you enough money to buy a nice stone

Connor
 
strategy9 said:
See, I tend to notice that while you mentioned all higher end steels, my lower end steels, like the cr-mov's, aus's, 420hc, svandik's, and 440's take roughly half as many strokes across a stone (diamond or ceramic) as my higher end stuff (s30v, n690, xhp etc), and i actually own more lower end stuff. Touches up with a bteeze, whereas my higher end stuff takes a bit more time, and with the composition of the alloys, it is also easier to blend in any uneven spots to to recurves, longer blades, etc, with a couple light strokes on the lower end stuff then it is with the higher end stuff which wears slower.

Now, once someone gets the art of sharpening down, any Steel is sharpen able, and if you can sharpen s30v, you can sharpen s90v with the same principles, but that's not to say 440 series isn't a whole hell of a lot easier and quicker (and cheaper) to learn with then more complex high alloy and hard(er) carbide steels.

I was sharpening run if the mill blades like Buck 420hc and Gerber ?'s for a while, but I remember when I first tried my hand at 30v, the amount of flat spots, uneven spots, and time consuming magnifying glass rechecks I went through to get 'em where I wanted 'em...sure the same ceramic (or diamond) stones will still "handle" the same steels, but keep in mind, you are an experienced vet at sharpening steels at different angles, yes, you can sharpen an exotic alloy maybe even with ease, but, drilling through pine or drilling through through greenheart, cutting standard bricks or cutting granite, are not "equal", esp for a beginner the first time they pick up a drill or saw.
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For many years, I was free handing "surgical steel" on an Arkansas Stone. I eventually upgraded to 154CM and D2 (via Benchmade) and I never noticed a difference in sharpening.

I still carry some "non-exotic" steel on my SAK, and N690 isn't much different than VG-10 or 440C (many would consider it a low-end steel). I often carry 154CM/CPM154/ATS-34 too (slight upgrades to 440 series steel).

Many variables need to be considered when sharpening: angles, blade thickness and geometry, dullness, chipping, etc. I'm sure you already know all this, because I know you're pretty up to date with you're metallurgy info;) I just think the main thing is to not let the edges get too dull and strop more often.

Some of the really carbide loaded steels may take a little longer to sharpen, but I don't think it's anything a new-comer can't handle. I couldn't imagine that S35VN takes an hour longer to sharpen than 440C:)
 
I agree with the people recommending the Griptilian. It's a hard-use knife with a great lock and ergonomics. It's a lot of knife for a very reasonable price.
 
M1GarandGuy said:
Maybe a tad over your price range but not by much...

The Manix 2 G10! It's a no brainier for the price! On Amazon it's about $80, and with S30V, G10, and a crazy strong yet very easy to operate locking system, what's not to like?! I own 4 Manix's in different variations, and the quality is extremely consistent through every single one. That's a feat which very few knife companies can do.
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This is a very good idea as well. Depending on your size preference, the Manix or a Griptilian (or Mini-Griptilian) are great choices.
 
I'm not saying it's an hour difference, but it is a difference, and when you're trying to learn to hone that skill, learning how to hold and adjust your angles, curves and recurves, longer blades that may require "blending" across a stone, it's just easier to learn on a softer Steel that can be a bit more forgiving, then the potential frustration of a harder high alloy Steel that is a bit more time consuming, especially when trying to achieve more refined edges...
(Not to mention the cost of said blades and stones)
 
If he has access to a vice and protractor or iPhone level app you can clamp the stone in the vice at an angle and use it like a sharp maker
 
If anyone's interested I bought the Spyderco Sage with Carbon Fiber scales, the tenacious was calling my name but I wanted something I could own for years to come and wasn't crazy with that 8Cr13MoV steel on the tenacious, So Sage CF s30 FTW!!!!!!
 
BladeAmateur97 said:
If anyone's interested I bought the Spyderco Sage with Carbon Fiber scales, the tenacious was calling my name but I wanted something I could own for years to come and wasn't crazy with that 8Cr13MoV steel on the tenacious, So Sage CF s30 FTW!!!!!!
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Oh boy! Nice pick, you are doomed just so you know. It was around 3-4 years ago I bought my first real knife (Spyderco caly 3) and I've been hooked since. The sage should hold up really nice. Congrats, I'm excited for you.
 
marcus52AR said:
Oh boy! Nice pick, you are doomed just so you know. It was around 3-4 years ago I bought my first real knife (Spyderco caly 3) and I've been hooked since. The sage should hold up really nice. Congrats, I'm excited for you.
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You being excited just made me more excited lmao xD I was just looking at a Caly 3.5 but they are still pricey even after discontinuation. Appreciate it !
 
The native 5 is a great EDC choice with s35v steel. Probably the cheapest knife wearing that high end steel. its under $70 on amazon.com today. I am a big fan of the Salt Serrated series. I think the Dragonfly salt SE is pretty much as much knife blade as anyone would need for EDC tasks. I used mine from ripping through zip ties, cutting food, opening packages. Prying drywall screws out of walls or holding the head in place to push out (if you miss the stud :-) ). I use it all the time while doing electrical work and even used it while in my attic to trim 2x4's when making braces. The serrations really kick that small edge up a notch and the work hardened steel with serrations has a super hard edge. Stays sharp very long and the more you sharpen it the better its edge holding ability is. Its also wicked light weight. If thats to small go for the Salt 1 with serrations. I will say I prefer the serrations on the dragonfly over the salt1 sized as they are smaller on the dragon fly and allow for a big cleaner slice. The Salt 1's are a bit aggressive. As long as your not using it for prying which you really shouldnt use any folder and especially non metal linned knives for. Use a screw driver instead!

Anyways. The sandvik steel on most of the kershaws is not bad but like most steels you would need to keep is sharp. Serrated edges even when dull will cut into hard materials better than a dull straigh blade. Try cutting into one of those super stiff hard plastic packages that tools come in with a straight bladed knife. Even sharp it has issues, serrated edge will crush it. Sure you cant slice as well with a serrated edge but most things i need a clean slice for is food prep and sorry but most EDC knives are not ideal for food prep, use a kitchen knife. Ok maybe your at work and you want to cut an apple. A serrated edge will work fine, wont be as clean but later in the day when you need to cut hard materials its worth it.

Esee izula is also a great knife, carbon steel will rust but you can beat the bag out of that little knife and it sharpens pretty quick

i took some pics of my knives today. Just for fun.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BBdT0P-m8gV/?taken-by=lemonlemonwatermelon
https://www.instagram.com/p/BBdPtQ8m8mQ/?taken-by=lemonlemonwatermelon
 
This right here is very sound advice, especially now that you got your feet wet in the higher end Steel variety;

Blues Bender said:
... I just think the main thing is to not let the edges get too dull and strop more often... :)
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If you strop frequently, and keep your edge sharp, you won't Need to sharpen as much. When you do, it'll be nothing more then light touch ups for quite a while before eventually you actually need to reset the entire edge...
(At which point, for the mere cost of shipping, you can always jist send it in to Spyderco to do for you if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself).

Nice knife BTW, I do hope you enjoy it. I never could get the feel for 'em, but Many folks do love their Spyderco's, so may you be in that group now that you actually own one. It's one of the nicer looking ones too IMO.
 
I'm tempted to suggest a Zero Tolerance ZT0900 because it's got nice belly and is fairly short. S35VN isn't my favorite, but the price kicks it from consideration.

More seriously, the Blur in S30V is an excellent choice. You can make it as sharp as you like, but it holds a good working edge even after a full work day. VG-10 won't do that.

Let me add another vote for the Knockout. Solid knife, good steel.
 
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