Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

Guys, I understand that this has been discussed and I beg your pardon. Because problem with English I'm a bit confused. I want a full list of belts that I may need. I want to order them from the micro-surface.com
 
khtima said:
Guys, I understand that this has been discussed and I beg your pardon. Because problem with English I'm a bit confused. I want a full list of belts that I may need. I want to order them from the micro-surface.com
Click to expand...

First check the Grit Conversion chart that Micro-Surface has on its website: http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=16

Your Work Sharp KTS will come with P80, P220, and 6000 belts. You will usually be starting with P220 and ending with 6000, so you want to get a few "in between" belts to fill in that gap. You will want to choose them from the MX and AO type belts. So, for instance, you might get a few 180MX, a few 240MX, and a few 360MX. If you want to be more fanatic about it, buy more grit variations and space them more closely. If less, space them out more and just get one or two.

This is just an example. Others will have different progressions they recommend and may chime in.

Hope that helps.

Andrew
 
Last edited:
I have not read through this entire thread (i apologize), but I picked up on a lot of comments directed toward the inconsistency in the bevel created on each side of the knife. The issue seems to stem from sharpening one side of the blade with the belt moving away from the edge and the other side with the belt moving into the edge. My question is this: is there anything that keeps you from sharpening both sides of the blade on the side of the belt that moves away from the edge? Can you not simply sharpen side "a" of a knife on side "1" of the sharpener and then rotate the blade 180deg and sharpen side "b" of the knife on side "1" by pulling in the opposite direction? --- as you would on a full sized belt sander or sharpening wheel?
 
Travis Hale said:
I have not read through this entire thread (i apologize), but I picked up on a lot of comments directed toward the inconsistency in the bevel created on each side of the knife. The issue seems to stem from sharpening one side of the blade with the belt moving away from the edge and the other side with the belt moving into the edge. My question is this: is there anything that keeps you from sharpening both sides of the blade on the side of the belt that moves away from the edge? Can you not simply sharpen side "a" of a knife on side "1" of the sharpener and then rotate the blade 180deg and sharpen side "b" of the knife on side "1" by pulling in the opposite direction? --- as you would on a full sized belt sander or sharpening wheel?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can do that. Different users have different techniques for doing both sides of the blade with the belt moving in the same direction, usually away from the edge. I have been experimenting with doing the right side of the blade by holding it in a hammerfist grip and pulling it from front to back on the right side of the KTS. The advantage to this method is that I can maintain a visual looking down on the spine of the knife, so that I can keep a consistent angle. Even so, I find the eyes play tricks on me a bit, and I have to tilt the spine slightly to the right when doing this to maintain the same sharpening angle.

Andrew
 
Hello everyone,
I just stumbled on this forum while google searching the Work Sharp sharpener and decided to join. Lots of good info.

I'm just an amateur knife dork- I dont even know what a paper wheel is. I saw this sharpener at my local Northern Tool & Equipment and decided to test drive it on my edc Benchmade 530. It has a super thin 154CM blade.

I have a orange/green DMT manual sharpening "stone" that I usually use on my blades, and while it works pretty well, I think with better technique I would have better results. In about 30 seconds I was able to put a great edge on my 530. It wasn't mirror shiny, but I'm sure there is a belt for that. I was really impressed with hire easily I was able to restore the edge on my duty "knockaround knife" and I'll probably buy one of these.
-philip
 
Last edited:
Jernej said:
This system looks good, but can it handle hawkbills, karambits or recurves?
Click to expand...

It's a 1/2" belt. It obviously depends on how tight the curve is. I've had no issues with a knife with a gentle recurve. But if you're asking the question, you already know the difficulty in sharpening hawkbill shapes. I Haven't tried, but I would expect it would be tough if the curve was tight. Maybe try to use the edge of the belt?
 
Noctis3880 said:
Yes, but I feel the Paper Wheels takes the cake for that quick and sharp edge without massive metal removal. While the grit wheel is officially 180 grit, the abrasiveness of the belt is easily controlled by the amount of wax you apply to it. And the slotted wheel seems surprisingly fast in making the edge razor sharp and much more effective at removing the burr.

As strange as it may sound, I feel the Work Sharp is quite gifted in making a beautiful edge, with such a short learning curve that after using it for all of 2 weeks, I already feel confident enough to do THIS:
PC200004.jpg

PC200003.jpg
Click to expand...

How did you do that?
 
I bought a whole set of Micro-Mesh MX belts and used the ones from 150MX-1200MX(9 belts total). So long as the jump between belts is as small as possible, it'll turn out to be a perfect mirror finish even when ending at only about 2 microns.
 
I really wanted this machine to work for me. I was impressed that it's an American company, and that it's received so many fairly positive reviews.

But, it's not for me. I'm glad it works for others, but, I can only say that I am not letting myself near it with any of my +$20 knives.

For me, the plastic grooves catch my knives, and it ends up taking off more metal in random spots along the edge. I also noticed that the heel of the blade received the most removal of metal, and the blades on the knives I tried it on, are no longer nice and straight when looking at the profile of the knife. The positive note I have for it, is that I can now ruin a knife in MUCH less time.

I'm not saying this is crap, because clearly it works for others. But, I myself can get much cleaner and sharper edges with my sharp maker. Until I personally can make something else work better, I'm just going to have to stick with my sharp maker, and I guess I'll keep my work sharp for my garden tools.
 
wk5h said:
I really wanted this machine to work for me. I was impressed that it's an American company, and that it's received so many fairly positive reviews.

But, it's not for me. I'm glad it works for others, but, I can only say that I am not letting myself near it with any of my +$20 knives.

For me, the plastic grooves catch my knives, and it ends up taking off more metal in random spots along the edge. I also noticed that the heel of the blade received the most removal of metal, and the blades on the knives I tried it on, are no longer nice and straight when looking at the profile of the knife. The positive note I have for it, is that I can now ruin a knife in MUCH less time.

I'm not saying this is crap, because clearly it works for others. But, I myself can get much cleaner and sharper edges with my sharp maker. Until I personally can make something else work better, I'm just going to have to stick with my sharp maker, and I guess I'll keep my work sharp for my garden tools.
Click to expand...

Sorry it hasn't worked out for you. The only knife that I own that hasn't been sharpened on my Worksharp is a custom knife made for me by ShadowKnives, because I only look at that knife, and admire it's beauty. No need to sharpen it because it's good to go as it is.

Now, as for my other knives, every single one of them has been sharpened with the Worksharp, including my most expensive knife, a Strider SNG... and yes, it is darn sharp, and looks great.

BTW, to get really good results with the Worksharp, the guide must be removed, and you'll need to freehand it. Otherwise, results will leave a lot to be desired. I freehand all my blades, and am plenty happy. After sharpening a blade and establishing a convex edge, I'll touch up with a good quality sharpening steel. Plenty good enough for me.
 
OK...finaly got mine down here in the land of Kangaroos, Koalas and Shielas.... :) I have to run it with a 240 to 110v transformer but I got a bargin on that ($30 - spread over a few US plugged products I am not too un happy about this). Started playing with it on my shed knife (a $20 CS Tanto copy I got in the 80s). I did manage to give it a little recurve back near the ricasso after lingering a little long with the 80 grit first go around. A few passes on the other belts left it shaving sharp (first time it has ever been in the last 30 years). I have a few junker blades (well, decent knives that have been used and abused by others) that will be the test material for me. I also got a bucket of extra belts from a micro-mesh dealer here. They only cost me the US selling price plus $6 postage so I was pretty happy about that...!!

I got some extras direct from Darex and I have to say that they (Harmoney in fact) were just great people to deal with... !!!!
 
Hey Gang! I have one of these units that I use to sharpen my knives at home. It is a great little tool, and easy to learn how to master it. I use the 220 grit (red) belt to touch up my kitchen knives and my present array of pocket knives with. I then use the 6000 (Grey) belt to finish it off with for an acceptable utility sharp. It is by no means scary sharp, but much sharper than anything I was using at home. You can free hand on it like you could with any belt sander, and with good results. The belts seem to last for a good while before needing to be replaced. I have a 6000 grit belt that is pretty worn out, but I use it for a polishing strop, and get fairly good results with it. It works great for garden tool sharpening with the 80 grit belt freehand. It is by no means a do all or a replacement for a more sophisticated system, but for its intended use, the $60 I paid for it is a bargain. You can sharpen on it and then use a good strop with some compound and have a shaveable knife in a short period of time. I would buy it again and would recommend it to my friends and family.
 
So I just got my Work Sharp and I am having some trouble with a Kabar large bowie. I have a decent edge on it after using 220, but after the 6000 belt I just have a pretty looking, but very dull edge. Any suggestions or pointers? I am getting a descent edge with some thinner kitchen knives, but this one is proving a challenge. DO i just need some more practice? I am using light pressure and have found it difficult to use the guides so I am using it free hand. I am shooting for a consistent edge between 20-25 degrees. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Sounds like you're not hitting the edge with the 6000 belt. You're not taking off much metal with the 6000, so a little trial and error may be in order.

Try different combinations of angle and pressure---shallow angle and more pressure, more acute angle and lighter pressure, etc.---testing the edge with paper slicing after each combination. You can also vary where on the belt you place the knife---higher where there's less slack or in the middle where there's more. You will likely find the right combination before long.

Andrew
 
I have found using the bottom end of the belts edge trailing gives the best results for me. Not as much natural "edge beveling" due to a slack belt there. (Free hand with the guide off of course) You can get a pretty good edge profile with some careful work if you take your time and use a consistent angle of attack. With the 6000 grit belt, it takes time to properly remove the wire edge and get a good polish on the finished product. I follow up with a cardboard strop for final polishing. (poor man's strop)
I need to get some of the micro mesh belts to try out and add to my arsenal of sharpening tools and experiment with them. I really like this this little tool for what it is and the $$ outlay for an in house sharpener. The wife really likes her sharp kitchen knives, and I get to have some fun experimenting with all the cheap knives from Goodwill and my friends knives.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I think I am getting it down. There is just a lot of metal with the 1/4" thick blades. I am very impressed with this tool though. Just need some more time on it. Thanks again for the tips.
 
I have been using the Worksharp according to the how the video shows. I alternate sides for about 5 passes each, switch to the finer 6000 belt and do the same thing.

How are you all doing it?

Would it be better to just do one side on the medium grit until you have a burr along the whole edge, then just hit the other side to flip the burr back over before switching and repeating with the 6000 belt?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top