Work sharp

I picked up a KO Worksharp at Bladeshow and I love it. Works great, makes sharpening easy and extremely fast.
 
I use the KO and it works great, I can get very sharp edges that can slice paper and newspaper with no issues but can't get shaving sharp, just take your time with it and I get great results with edges gba look polished. My last step is their 12k belt
 
Can't get "shaving sharp"?! Watch a couple videos, the WS video sucks. There's a few really good tips out there. Feed it SLOW, and I find the X4 belt does wonders. I was shaving hair minutes after first getting it. I haven't even tried the actual knife attachment yet.
 
Cobalt said:
yes and if you remove the backing plate it can convex edges as well.
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Are you able to grind against the platen at all? When I tried it caused terrible chatter, so it really only works as a slack belt for me. Not complaining, though.
 
I picked one up today! Sharpened my spyderco lum and para milli, three Henkel kitchen knives, and my ZT pocket knife up paper shaven sharp. I then proceeded to sharpen my Skelly warden up to a razor warden!! The Infi took an edge way easier then any of the other blades. I wasn't able to get my ZT paper shaven sharp, I feel like I wasn't getting the angle right due to the blade profile. I ran it through all the belts twice on 25 and 22 degrees. I will check you tube and see if I can't come up with some more refined technique. Haven't tried any my big blades out yet.
 
I use the regular Work Sharp every day at my job sharpening for customers. With a little practice I have been able to use it to reshape the angle of an edge. THIS THING WORKS GREAT! Of course at home I use a belt grinder, diamond stone and leather strop.
 
I have stones, the 1x30 harbor freight belt sander with lee valley belts and the KE worksharp (along with a spyderco sharpener, dmt stones, and way too many strops and other gear).

For re-profiling or getting a dull edge back quick I really like the Work Sharp KE and it does the job well with the guides, quick and fast. I must mention that you can ruin a tip on a knife quickly with this or the belt sander if you dont watch what you are doing. I generally do larger knives and machete's on the 1X30 as its just easier for me, I also prefer to do Khukri's on the 1X30 as its just a little weird doing it with the worksharp. I used to do all my convex edges with sandpaper up to 4000 grit or use stones. I just have gotten lazy and really dont need a mirror edge on 99% of my knives so I simply dont do them unless I have one already established.

One gripe and really my only gripe about the worksharp is that if you are placing it on a hard surface it tends to dance, I wish it had sticky cups on the bottom of the handle and the belt assembly. So I have gotten into a habit of clamping it down or doing it on carpet where shifting is less significant and with larger blades two hands might be use-full.
 
Agreed, you "can" ruin a tip. But if you follow the instructions on where to stop....I've improved every one of tips.

As far as the movement, I place mine in a metal baking dish, with the rubber "bumpers" on the WS, it holds just fine.
 
KMG = Dave Brown size work sharp edition :)



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You just have to use soft steel

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If the Work Sharp KO Edition had guides that didn't move when you apply pressure against it --- it would be awesome. If the guides could easily accommodate blades up to .32 thick spines at 20 degrees it would be fantastic. Regardless it's a great mechanism for spitting out quick work with a nice edge. I use it all the time for kitchen knives, low end knives, etc.

In some ways the original cheaper Work Sharp is better.
 
You're not supposed to apply lateral pressure.

And it'll just take time to get a Busse down to 20 degrees.
 
Gravelface said:
You're not supposed to apply lateral pressure.

And it'll just take time to get a Busse down to 20 degrees.
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Applying lateral pressure ensures edge consistency --- it also allows the user to determine how aggressively they want the micro convex edge to be while maintaining the angle. I respectfully disagree --- I know for a fact that if the guides did not move -- I would be able to produce much better edges and with much more control over the degree of micro-convexity.
 
What's the difference between applying lateral pressure and the guides moving to allow you to do the things you described?
 
I don't have a Busse but I sharpened my GSO 4.1 in 3v on my regular worksharp. I had to go down to the coarsest belt but nothing else would touch that steel. 20 passes each side and it's crazy sharp now. It's all I use for fixed blades. I've thought about upgrading to the Ken Onion edition but so far haven't needed to. The only issue is I wanted a 20 degree edge and the guide for the original worksharp doesn't give much room for thicker blade stocks. It's doable though.
 
Because when the guides don't move you can ensure that the blade profile is evenly and fully resting against the guide . . . It reduces the chance of user error. It's much harder knowing that the guide will move, which results in the user avoiding allowing too much lateral pressure to occur, which ultimately changes the angle. It becomes more like free hand sharpening rather than a guided system. Also as blade profile get heavier -- you have to really baby it and just minimally allow it to rest against the guide to avoid too much pressure against it resulting in an angle change. I don't see how my statements don't make sense or are controversial -- it should be rather obvious that if the guides didn't move, the user has a much less margin of error.
 
xICEMANx said:
I don't have a Busse but I sharpened my GSO 4.1 in 3v on my regular worksharp. I had to go down to the coarsest belt but nothing else would touch that steel. 20 passes each side and it's crazy sharp now. It's all I use for fixed blades. I've thought about upgrading to the Ken Onion edition but so far haven't needed to. The only issue is I wanted a 20 degree edge and the guide for the original worksharp doesn't give much room for thicker blade stocks. It's doable though.
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Yes you're absolutely right -- it's one of the most cited issues with this system. There are some serious advantages of the KO edition over the original (e.g belt width, belt speed, different/more angle settings, etc.). However, for me, the fact that the guides move and aren't fixed/locked when you choose the angle you want -- is a major design flaw. I've talked to their reps about it and they all agree --- I'm betting the next model released will rectify this issue.
 
I don't see a difference in applying lateral pressure vs guides moving to allow lateral pressure. Other than a degree of effort on the user to control the action. If I want a micro bevel, I adjust the angle and make another pass. I'm sure with more practice you could achieve the results you are after.



They wouldn't even need a new model. Only another snap on guide, $10.00 piece they could sell as an accessory.
 
Yes that degree of effort is a huge distraction for me. I find it more comfortable to free hand sharpen on HF 1x30 when dealing with big/heavy/thick blades. When applying lateral pressure against a guide that doesn't move -- the user can focus more on degree of downward pressure onto the belt (thereby allowing consistent control over the degree of micro convexity of the edge). You're right they certainly could just add an attachment. I'd be all over that. But let's not pretend that a guide that moves with pressure is remotely as good as a guide that locks. It's clearly a design flaw in my view. The Work Sharp reps seem to agree also.

But of course -- as always -- to each their own. I respect everyone's views.
 
resinguy said:
Are you able to grind against the platen at all? When I tried it caused terrible chatter, so it really only works as a slack belt for me. Not complaining, though.
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That useless piece of metal came off minutes after setup. Haha. So chattery.

Also not complaining. I have a 1x30 leather belt that I load with lapping compound from the shop I work in. Do it right, and there's no sharper blade on the planet.

 
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So that idiot Ken Onion had NO clue what he was doing when he helped design it....;)



I've got the knife working attachment for the WS, 1x12" (I think)...but I've never tried it because of the outstanding results of the stock worksharp.
 
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