Work sharp

tinfoil hat timmy said:
That useless piece of metal came off minutes after setup. Haha. So chattery.

Also not complaining. I have a 1x30 leather belt that I load with lapping compound from the shop I work in. Do it right, and there's no sharper blade on the planet.
Click to expand...

For convex edges I might agree --- but if we went toe to toe on sharpest, most consistent, and most refined --- I think the Wicked Edge or Edge Pro take the victory. Btw I've been loving your mod work --- I like how you're adventurous with your blades -- especially that Sar 8
 
Gravelface said:
So that idiot Ken Onion had NO clue what he was doing when he helped design it....;)
Click to expand...

Sarcasm?! I mean are you offended that I've suggested that there was a design flaw? Are you unable to admit that a locked angle guide is more efficient than one that moves with little lateral pressure? I hope your kidding brother --- Ken Onion isn't the Messiah
 
DanR217 said:
I wouldn't worry about the heat treat, it's been discussed here before and you have to get up to 900F plus and at that high I think it glows red, but you might want to wait for a more educated person to tell you.
Click to expand...

Dan,
Heat treatment of a knife is ALways a concern when sharpening and most of the steels used in Cutlery have a last temper in the range of 400 degrees.

I purchased a W/S Ken Onion addition as a gift to my wife's family in Mexico City. I used it extensively on the Mother in laws drawer full of dull kitchen knives and a Hachet and a few other tools for my FIL.

I was very pleased with the unit, It has variable speed. I sharpen professionally using one of my 2 x 72" belt knife making machines and while I can do better with it. The Work sharp, Ken Onion will do a superb job and I recommend for the home sharpener. :thumbup:
 
Rob_Mob said:
For convex edges I might agree --- but if we went toe to toe on sharpest, most consistent, and most refined --- I think the Wicked Edge or Edge Pro take the victory. Btw I've been loving your mod work --- I like how you're adventurous with your blades -- especially that Sar 8
Click to expand...

The handles on that bad ass blade swelled and contracted so much in the humidity here in Minnesota, I couldn't help but go for consistency. Now I know what I'll be holding when I pick it up each time.

The SteelHeart ergos ass needed to come off. It's a fact. Ergos are better assless.
 
I don't get offended by (in true essence) a meaningless discussion on knife sharpening. I bought it and use it with outstanding results as I'm sure the vast majority of users do. As with any product/style/brand/gun/vehicle/etc anything isn't made for everyone. And no, I won't admit that a locked guide would be advantageous, I like the free floating version so I can work the front belly of thick knives so I don't have to grind the edge up higher. Just my preference. It's right for me. And while I don't believe Onion to be a messiah, I'm sure he's forgotten more about sharpening than you or I, combined, know.

And for the record. I don't like his style.
 
barrabas74 said:
I have stones, the 1x30 harbor freight belt sander with lee valley belts and the KE worksharp (along with a spyderco sharpener, dmt stones, and way too many strops and other gear).

For re-profiling or getting a dull edge back quick I really like the Work Sharp KE and it does the job well with the guides, quick and fast. I must mention that you can ruin a tip on a knife quickly with this or the belt sander if you dont watch what you are doing. I generally do larger knives and machete's on the 1X30 as its just easier for me, I also prefer to do Khukri's on the 1X30 as its just a little weird doing it with the worksharp. I used to do all my convex edges with sandpaper up to 4000 grit or use stones. I just have gotten lazy and really dont need a mirror edge on 99% of my knives so I simply dont do them unless I have one already established.

One gripe and really my only gripe about the worksharp is that if you are placing it on a hard surface it tends to dance, I wish it had sticky cups on the bottom of the handle and the belt assembly. So I have gotten into a habit of clamping it down or doing it on carpet where shifting is less significant and with larger blades two hands might be use-full.
Click to expand...

Hey bud, There are two screws on the bottom of the machine with those black twist offs, so you can mount it on a board if you want increased stability.
 
Gravelface said:
I don't get offended by (in true essence) a meaningless discussion on knife sharpening. I bought it and use it with outstanding results as I'm sure the vast majority of users do. As with any product/style/brand/gun/vehicle/etc anything isn't made for everyone. And no, I won't admit that a locked guide would be advantageous, I like the free floating version so I can work the front belly of thick knives so I don't have to grind the edge up higher. Just my preference. It's right for me. And while I don't believe Onion to be a messiah, I'm sure he's forgotten more about sharpening than you or I, combined, know.

And for the record. I don't like his style.
Click to expand...

I understand --- and of course no harm done --- as I said, to each their own and I respect everyone's opinion. I also like the Work Sharp KO edition for certain knives and I also get excellent results with certain knives -- I was just sharing my thoughts on a design flaw. Oh and btw -- if you want to avoid the edge being grinded higher with a fixed guide -- all you'd have to do is raise up the knife while maintaining lateral pressure against the fixed guide. Either way -- cheers and happy chopping
 
Here's my Badger. I followed the factory asymetric edge on my diamond plates then finished up on a 1x30 leather belt with compound. 600 passes a minute. :D

I imagine the worksharp is just as much fun to use.

 
I have both Worksharp devices and have had good results (no, in fact, great results) after some learning and experimentation. Th KO is a huge improvement over the original design and I am more than happy with it. The "non-fixed" guides take a little getting use to but you do. Alternately (and I do when I am regrinding an edge from scratch - particularly on a large knife) you can set the angle you want and tighten the screw retailing the guides and presto it is fixed :) , I have actually come to prefer the moving guides on REsharpening as it gives me a better feel for the pressure of the edge on the belt.

for the record, I am not at all an edge wizard or fixated with such. I require edges that will cut and chop what I want. That is generally skins (skinning) or meat and ligaments/tendons etc. A VERY sharp edge makes popping of legs at joints so much easier. Till I knew better I didn't know at all about what angle I was sharpening etc etc my knives would cut and dice and keep doing so and I was happy. I have a better idea of the "methodology" of sharpening now but more so I now I know why what I am doing works in practice.

In summation, if you are fanatical about edges, perfect consistency and angles etc, the WS is not so much for you (nor generally will any slack belt sharpening be for you), if you want a tool that puts exceptionally usable edges on your tools in a quick and convenient way, then it is a fantastic piece of equipment.
 
Wait --- Andy --- are you saying there is a way to essentially make them fixed?! Because if there is ---- this solves everything!!! That allows those who prefer guides to be moveable to enjoy that and it allows people like me to rig it so that they don't move --- everybody is happy!! I'm going to check this out later on mine. I'll keep you posted . . .

Andy!!! I really hope you're right and it becomes a solid fixed guide!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top