Working with bone.

I can handle this. :)

I found a site that said to normalize at about 1600, then 1550 and 1500 before finally austenitizing at 1450. Are the colors accurate enough for this? How do I let it cool between normalizing cycles, just for a few minutes?

When you say a "big blade", what is the max length a gallon can do? I'm thinking of about 6" blade and 4-5" handle at the moment.
 
I let it cool until it is cool to the touch during normalization. No colors are not accurate. 1600 in the shade looks different than it does in bright sunlight. So depending on the light colors will look different. This really sucks for color blind guys like me (not totally color blind btw). I use a magnet, but as soon as I find a new job I will be buying a pyrometer.

Of course Stacy is a lot better at advice than I am. So listen to him. He is a wealth of knowledge and a great guy.:thumbup:
 
Hmmmm...

1095 becomes nonmagnetic at 1420, or a orange-red in the shade, according to what I've found. Gives me a frame of reference for 1420, at least. True orange should be a couple steps over that.

I'll be working in my garage, where it's fairly consistent lighting, so if I can get a reference point I should be okay.
 
Magnet and eyeball will work....with experience. A $35 pid and a $25 thermocouple probe will tell you exactly what the temp is. Check the "pid" thread out.
Stacy
 
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