Working with D2

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Edcgearreviews

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Jan 23, 2010
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144
Hello,

Today I received a 1.5 by 12 by 3/16ths piece of d2. I set off right away trying to cut out a blade profile, but had very little luck. I purchased this steel from Texas Knife Supply and I was wondering if anyone else had experience with d2 from this supplier. Now it very well could be user error, as this is my first knife, but it is really quite agonizing working with this steel. Does anyone know if this steel can be annealed even more? Does it even come annealed? Can anyone provide me with annealing instructions if it is not?
 
how are you attempting to cutting it out?

D2 certainly doesnt have a reputation for being easy to work with
 
I found on my first experience with D2, hand filing is a chore. It's very tough to work by hand even when properly annealed. I was glad to have my KMG.
 
I had a similar experience with 5/32 ATS 34 from them, but thought back to when I did modifications on a hardened piece of a similar thickness and realized it was just that I was trying to take off a lot more material at once with a belt mostly meant for wood.

I think a lot of us newbies underestimate the toughness of a chunk of steel even when "soft", or maybe over estimate the capacity of our tools. I know that the other lengths of 5/32 will probably stay in storage until I get better and until my tools get upgraded a bit. I figure I can do a lot of learning with less expense and wear and tear on my tools and consumables with 1/8 or 3/32.
 
Thanks for the responses. I am working on an old but well maintained metal cutting band saw and a circular tool grinder for the profiles. I have a 1.5 HP belt sander to grind the bevel, but that is all I can do with it do to restrictions at the workshop I go to.
 
Might be worht the extra effort though. I understand D2 is superb at edge retention when properly hardened. Actually I have a piece on the way, .386" x 11.5" x 1.7"; I was hoping to be able to cut it with a hack saw. Hope I don't have to pay for waterjet cutting.
 
Tippet said:
Might be worht the extra effort though. I understand D2 is superb at edge retention when properly hardened. Actually I have a piece on the way, .386" x 11.5" x 1.7"; I was hoping to be able to cut it with a hack saw. Hope I don't have to pay for waterjet cutting.
Click to expand...

get ready for a workout
 
Tippet said:
Might be worht the extra effort though. I understand D2 is superb at edge retention when properly hardened. Actually I have a piece on the way, .386" x 11.5" x 1.7"; I was hoping to be able to cut it with a hack saw. Hope I don't have to pay for waterjet cutting.
Click to expand...

Use an angle grinder
 
D2 is tough stuff.
Tips on working with it:
Use a good quality bi-metal blade, like a Lenox Blade on the band saw. Most likely the blade you are using is not going to cut hard ( even when annealed) D2 stainless steel ( technically it is semi-stainless).
Go slow, it takes time to saw out 3/16 sheet.
Remove evenly - When doing the bevels, take some off one side, then some off the other. You will get a more even blade that way.

You can't anneal it without HT ovens and some experience. It is not at all like simple carbon steels. D2 is an air hardening steel.
 
+1 on what jack said about it after its been heat treated. i have to skeletonize the handle on a blade thats already been heat treated so i can attach the scales. i think i'll have to pack my lunch for that job :D.
 
I've gotten D2 from Janitz and it seems to take a little more effort to get it to final shape than 1095. I was under the impression that this was just the nature of the beast. The same properties that make it so good a holding an edge make it more difficult to work.

I've decided to not use D2 though because I can't do it justice when it comes to hardening it and I's not worth the expense to me to pay for a professional heat treating service.

LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
+1 what bladsmth said

and see if you can scratch off the scale, it dulls tools and belts fast
 
I use lenox bimetal blades on my portaband setup, it is quite easy to cut, not like butter but man! after 100 cuts these blades're like new ...
Emre
 
Mill scale is a big issue, and one I wish someone had explained to me a long time ago. Most of the barstock you can buy has scale on it which is even harder than the steel itself. Soaking the bar in regular white vinegar for a couple days will etch into it and make the dark scale a LOT easier to grind off. I have noticed a huge difference with 1084, 1095, D2, CPM3V, and CPM154 (which is a pretty wide variety of steels, chemically-speaking). ALL of them grind easier after etching in vinegar. The "raw" steel underneath still has its own properties, of course. 1084 is still easier to grind than CPM3V.

If you ever have the chance to buy your favorite steel in a precision-ground state, spend the extra few bucks! It's well worth it to avoid the whole mill-scale issue.

Having said all that, yeah annealed D2 is still tough to grind, noticeably tougher than simpler steels with less alloying elements in them like 1084 or O1. It also makes knives that keep their edge a lot longer, that's sort of how it works.

I think an angle grinder would be fine for profiling D2; if you're worried about the heat, do a stress-relief cycle before HT'ing.
 
I just got a very thick piece of D2 in from Alpha Knife Supply. I called Chuck (at Alpha) to let him know I got it and ask a couple questions. He said it's easy to cut with a hacksaw. He said it's among the easier types to work with. I guess I'll find out!
 
I have found that cutting D2 with a metal cutting bandsaw, is a little tough, but when you stop the cut and try to start over in the same spot is when it gets really hard to do, it air hardens enough to make it very hard to cut, so once you get started, keep cutting as long as you can, and run your blade speed as slow as possiable. I buy precision ground from Amtek Tool at about the same price as rolled barstock from TKS, no mill scale to mess with. I have done one test blade in D2 so far, and love it.
Dale
 
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